Archive through April 10, 2011

[dlouw]

Thanks for the compliments on my restored 102. It was indeed a sad looking purchase and everybody wondered what I was going to do with it!

What drives me is to get it fixed as I have never seen or heard one working. I am actually impressed with this little tractor.

Apologies if the pictures appear wide on your page. On mine they are stacked. I "posted" after each picture, tried to "hit enter" but was not successful. My picture captions didn't show either. Apologies for my technological incompetence and any inconvenience caused. Also for my slow response - remember we are at least 7 hours ahead and I am probably sleeping when you post.

Marty
The old tank was rusted beyond repair. I still have it and had the outlet cut out and welded to the new stainless steel tank.
Tom
Yes, I am in the City of Johannesburg and are not presently planning any hard work for the 102 other than perhaps some lawn mowing from time to time. I am on about 1/3 acre with less than 1/4 acre of (Kikoejoe) lawn. I normally use (an unmentionable) green 56 rear end rider with catcher bag and Tecumseh engine. I bought it new in 1972 and just had its (upgraded) 7 horse engine resleeved, back to standard.

I actually enjoy bringing broken things back to live and the "panel beating", preparation (read sanding), spray painting, etc are all aquired hobby skills. I am actually ex-IT, now semi-retired.

Once again, thanks for this site, the advice and encouragement. Also thanks to the sponsors (particulary Charlie) who are willing to ship internationally. Many suppliers don't.

Another view of my restored (1967) 102 Serial Number 185611. Miller's ribbed front tyres, 4 Ply Kenda bar tyres on the rear.

 

[kpeaney]

Dawid, I am impressed with what you have done to the 102, considering where you are located. You must have a deep sense of fixing what most would pass by on. Thanks for the pics, enjoy the fruits of your labor.
KennyP

 

[aschumacher]

Everybody in Minnesota and Wisconsin have all their Cubs (and homes) still intact? Stay safe everyone.

 

[rklein]

Ryan,

"...left my key on and arched the solenoid to fire it up. So in that case it must be a ground issue or I burned up the key, if the solenoid turned the starter over and the starter turned the engine over..."


Ryan, This is why you need to see if the solinoid is getting 12vdc when you turn the key to the start position. Clean ALL connections. I use Electrical Cleaner in an spray can. Key switches are usually very reliable.

 

[mgwin]

Dawid J.,

If you really want to be impressed, hook a turning plow to it. The guys at work laughed at me when I said I was going to plow the garden with my 128 cub cadet. They're not laughing now!

 

[mgwin]

Ryan M.,

If you have wiring that has melted insulation, you either have a short, or the wire is too small for the ammount of amp draw.
I had a small ground problem with my grote light the other day. First problem: a light mist of paint in the bulb socket. Second problem: too much paint between the light housing and the mounting bracket. Third problem: too much paint between the mounting bracket and the fender bracket. All was solved with a multimeter and some continuity testing!

 

[rmcshane]

Marty G.- Thanks for the input. Ill give it a look when I get home. I may just try replacing the wiring harness, clean up the grounds, and replace some of the electrical components.

 

[mschairer]

Hello

Tried to fire up CCO4740 today to do a little Spring Clean Up, and all I could get was sputtering and coughing for minutes at a time, Gas was drained last fall, put in fresh w/ Stabil. Any Ideas?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[digger]

Mark S.
What all have you checked?
If we know what you've looked at, we can rule those out and go from there.

 

[jeyoung]

Hi, I am a first time user and recent IH CC convert. I used an A/C B-10 for over 30 years until it finally gave up.

Question; I have a 1450 QL that was one of the last one built. I installed a new Hydro fan on the drive shaft b/c the blades on the old one were broken. Upon raising the mower deck the rock shaft arm sheared off the fan blades (again). The fan was for a 1450, but I am wondering if there is a smaller one for my late model? Thanks for any advice.
joe young

 

[jbaker]

Joe ive done that.. I found that moving the fan back a little close to the end and bending the cotter pin on the lift out of the way helped.

When i do one now I always have the lift all the way up when installing to check for clearance.

they all use the same fan made of plastic to bad they are not metal.

 

[mschairer]

Digger:

Changed Gas, Cleaned Carb, Changed plug, installed new coil, wire & Condenser.

Mark

 

[jharvey]

Got condenser on the negative terminal?

 

[tstewart]

I've said it before but my 1000 has been doing an excellent job in the woods hauling firewood. I can't say the same for the cr*ftsman dump cart, as seen below. The last two times out it developed two vertical cracks, one almost center of the front and the other on the corner on the right hand side of the pic. However this last time out killed it. I was going up a pretty steep incline, and the flimsy dump latch let loose. I had several big cherry rounds in it, probably 14-16" rounds, and when the trailer dumped all that weight hit the plastic and it shattered. had to load the last half of the truck being very careful and only a couple rounds at a time. What a pain that was.

So I am thinking about what to do for a cart. I need something bigger or stronger. I've seen some nice poly ones but way too much $$ for me. Probably go with steel this time, but I'm not too impressed with whats out there. Anyone have suggestions? I cant go too heavy that I cant easily maneuver it on top of my 6x10 trailer with a load of wood on. Usually I'll park the cub on it, pack wood all around the cub and behind, and then throw the dump cart on top of the pile and strap it.

One idea I had was to make a trailer out of a small boat trailer if I can find one for cheap. Looking at mine, I have a 14' aluminum boat and the trailer looks like It could hold up to 16' and maybe down to 12-13'. If I can find another one similar, or smaller, for like 100 bucks or so maybe it would be worth it? I could cut the center beam back right after it forks and relocate the hitch there, that would be about 7' long for mine. Its about 3.5' between the wheels also. I could simply get some c channel or angle iron and weld or bolt around the sides for rails, and lay some PT decking boards down cut to fit the existing shape, just might have to run one more brace across the middle? This is still a bit on the large side unless I find a slightly smaller boat trailer, sound doable?

Anyone else make a DIY wagon?

My design parameters would be:
-ball hitch (too much weight banging around the woods for a pin hitch, already egged out mine some
-at least 1,000 pounds capacity, preferably a bit more
-not much wider that tractor to fit in tighter spaces
-lots of hitch weight, have to go up hills, and I struggle with traction. The dump cart I had going up hill would actually lift up on the hitch
-preferably wide tires for snow and mud. Thats one disadvantage of what comes on a boat trailer.
-would like the back to open flush, meaning I dont want to have to lift a 200# round up over the rails. Maybe even a ramp gate.

Or am I just crazy, this is way to much work, and should buy all my wood and have it delivered.

 

[ewells]

Tristan why not take plastic body off what you have and make your own bed for the frame you have?

 

[tstewart]

Ed - that was a thought I had as well (but didnt mention in my lengthy post). I could do that, and when I design a new bed for it I could design it a bit more 'forward' to put more weight on the hitch, but I dont have a lot of room to play with, maybe a foot at the most. Not sure if its going to be quite as big as I would like... but I could always go UP. But I looked it up that trailer is only rated for 750# which is pushing it but maybe ok hard to say for sure. If I did that though I still want to convert to a ball hitch which shouldnt be to hard to do.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tristan, not a home made design, but this is what I haul my firewood in. Photos from a few years back with a load of slabwood.

 

[wshytle]

Tristan-

Just pay attention to craigslist and one like Kraigs will show up (maybe not 17 cu ft). I see them all the time.

Speaking of craigslist, I saw this mule drive last week and inquired. I noticed the pulleys looked like the solid steel type with replaceable bearings which are recommended for use with a tiller. I hope to set a 1650 up with the tiller this summer and had been thinking about just using regular pulleys. I received it today and sure enough....solid steel. Not bad for $43 to my door. I'll feel better with these running the tiller and the mule drive even has the two belt tighteners installed. I only took portional pictures and this showed the best.

 

[aschumacher]

Tristan, note that the draw bar(?) is made of heavy sheet metal in the shape of a "C". These trailers all seem to be made by the same company for different outlets...my sears one looks like Kraigs! It may be able to handle 1000#, going forward...but backing up may buckle it! I moved gravel for a neighbor and filled up the trailer 3/4 full. dont know weight but it was heavy. Trying to back up a few times in an awkward place I started to bow out the drawbar! Ended up with a pine 2x3 inside it with hose clamps around the bar to keep everything tight. Actually made the 2x3 about 15" longer than the steel. Made it easier(for me) to 'break' <font size="-2">(steer)</font>the trailer on backing up. Just an observation from one trailer owner.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tristan, here's my old homemade trailer. I think it was when I hauled several heaping loads of concrete rubble in it back in 1997 that did in the bearings and they finally gave out completely back around 2003. Note the corner and side brackets, the sides would all slide apart to make it a flat bed. The tail gate and front gate lift off first then the sides will slide back. Pretty clever if I do say so myself.

I still have the trailer it's parked in the weeds near the pile of parts Cubs. I have several tires/rims stored in it. I should probably take it apart and save the corner brackets before they rust away...