If he's thinking his "S" and "T" are 180 degrees out.. it could make a difference. But I guess since you've seen it all, in all your years, the rest of us need not reply.In his first post, he said he already checked this. Doesn't matter, because a sheared flywheel key on a K-series has no effect on the timing since the points are actuated by a cam lobe.
Not to mention I have never, ever heard of a K-series shearing a flywheel key in my nearly 20 years of working on these things.
If you read his original post, you will see that he already checked the flywheel key and found it not sheared:If he's thinking his "S" and "T" are 180 degrees out.. it could make a difference. But I guess since you've seen it all, in all your years, the rest of us need not reply.
I have not seen everything, but I can read.The key is still solid and perfectly lined up with the shaft. The gears on the camshaft are perfect with no chips.
I'm sure you meant TSP!!
And even one of those would be way more than enough.
This response is mostly TIC so please don't take offense here....
3 or 4 TBSP worth!!
That's a lot of gas man!
You got 911on your speed dial phone handy??
2 ounces to be exact,
You got 911 on your speed dial phone handy??
wash down the cylinder and you will never get it started
Just a quick shot of carb cleaner in the carb is all that's needed.
If this engine was tuned correctly (as in static) it would be running before you could even let go of the key!!
This is interesting information, but it would be more important to know if the T mark lines up with TDC.Have not had time to look at it any more. The sight hole is on the starter/generator side about halfway up and level with the crankshaft.
The crankshaft key is solid and lines up the crank and flywheel.
I have good spark with the new plug removed and grounded.
I set the valve clearances and tried the point gap at everything from .014 to .024 with no luck.
I have a new condenser and coil wire to put on when I put the motor back in.
Turning the flywheel clockwise, compression begins with the S and T marks almost straight down, so 90 degrees past the sight hole location. I have not had a chance to see where the points open in relation to the compression.
Thank you all for the suggestions and help.
I believe the T mark on the flywheel should be at the window when the piston is at the top of the bore on the compression stroke , but with the head on you can't see thatThis is interesting information, but it would be more important to know if the T mark lines up with TDC.
I Quit!!!!Unless I'm missing something, If the plug is in and I turn the flywheel until I'm feeling good compression, then that should be within maybe 5 to 10 degrees of TDC? Because compression happens near TDC on the compression stroke? I realize the compression stroke encompasses 180 degrees of a circle but with the ACR and the biggest amount of compression happening near TDC. That should bring the potential arc down to maybe 30-45 degrees.
I can clearly feel the compression and it is happening with the T at about 90 degrees past the hole. (straight down) Then It should be worst case between 80 and 100 degrees off.
If I'm getting compression then the valves are closing at the appropriate time to allow the pressure to build. Which should mean that the cam and crank are in harmony. But are they in Harmony at the correct position for the points to open?
I'll take a look and see when the points open in relation to where the compression is.