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149 Running terrible after overhaul

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I’m not very experienced in these things yet, but is there a possibility it could have something to do with the compression release not working right?
The compression release is on the exhaust valve, and he says it's spitting through the carb, so no.
 
OK everyone just got thru trying all the suggestions you all have told me. And no difference. Since I can't static time it i started and adjusted points while running as I opened them wider it kept running better not quite perfect but a lot better until I got them so wide it shut down. With points set at widest gap .032 it ran best any wider it shuts off. What do you all think. I'm going to pull engine for 3rd time unless someone can recommend another option. Thanks for all the help.
 
points set at .018-.020 is good enough if you can't static time and will run fine at that barring any other issues ! when it starts sputtering when giving it throttle did you pull the choke closed a little to see if it smoothed out if so then it would indicate a fuel problem to me , if you haven't done it I hate to say I would pull the head off rotate the engine,watch the exhaust valve bump open and reclose with the compression release to be sure its functioning ,rotate till intake opens and closes and piston comes up on it's compression stroke when just short of the top of the cylinder your points should start to break which you can watch on an ohm meter if all this is happening then I'm going out on a limb and say your timing and valve train is functioning like it should. It has got to be a fuel or spark issue in my opinion for what it is worth . I have rebuilt quite a few of these and this is a hand wringer !good luck is about all I can offer at this point !
 
Post a couple pics of the engine and we can help you find the sight hole for the timing marks so you can static time it.

What is the valve lash set to?
 
Matt, I have been asking for pictures in many post but none have appeared, don't hold your breath if he does not post one....

Just trying to help...
 
Yes points have been set as low as .015 and it runs worse. Ran the best at .032. Valve lash set at .010 and .020 Will have to get with my neighbor to take pictures and try and post.
 
( kiss = Keep It Simple Stupid ) ?
Spent all my working years at Dow Jones & Co (The Wall Street Journal). Great environment, worked with people who were smarter than me, I had fun every day. The watchword was KISS or keep it simple stupid. Notice there's no comma in there; we thought things worked best when kept simple and all could benefit. See a similar definition on Wiki.
Cheers, Jack
 
Removed engine for 3rd and final time. Found hole for static timing on front side of Brg plate. Removed pan and checked cam to crank timing is right on. Adjusted valves again never realized the compression release on cam changes valve lash setting so corrected lash settings to .020 ex and .010 intake. Visually inspected everything internally and reassembled. Set static timing using Mgonitzke method (Thanks You). Points set perfectly to S mark on flywheel with ohm meter. Calling it a day now. Will probably reinstall engine in next day or so. Thanks for all the help everyone.
 
Great work SIR keep the faith in the rule the wrong question is the one not ASKED !!! Learned that from DAD my BURMA Merrills marauders and Pathfinder/Trailblazer/OSS/Teacher of how to kill quietly and hunt hungry !!!!! And always one rule you keep my BETTER HALF HAPPY we don’t have a doghouse !!!!!
 
OK everyone update engine installed for last time and noticed I had condenser on Positive side of coil . Don't know how I did that but the dummy corrected it. So corrected this along with static timing and correcting valve lash exhaust was off some and fired it up and ran smoothly problem fixed. I want to thank everyone for all the help and suggestions and have a good day.
 
Check the points, points arm may have broke, even if they are new. Some aftermarket points have a longer screw that holds the lead in place and hits the points arm when tightened, I ended up filing down the screw. Is the coil wired correctly? + to ign. - for points and condenser. Coil and condenser need good clean grounds. Fuel shutoff should be a screened filter in tank, with no other filter on the fuel line.
Post # 16 tells you what you should have checked, 60 post later and you had lot of frustration on your part.....
 
Post # 16 tells you what you should have checked, 60 post later and you had lot of frustration on your part.....
Only too easy to understand, though. The eye sees what it expects to see. This becomes a problem in inspection, as well as search-and-rescue type operations. Takes quite a bit of training to overcome. Cheers for him getting it going, though.
 
So, through no fault of the condenser, the problem was the condenser as many of us had suggested. I have no problem understanding why it was so easy to overlook, it seems like a mistake that I could make but, all the off-topic comments didn't help either, if anything they were a distraction from the real problem. When the comments get too long or more or less off-topic, I have a tendency to just skim over them because then all I see is blah, blah, blah. There was more than one suggestion to check the condenser to see which side of the coil it was connected to. There's a lesson here to be learned for some of us, for others it's proof of what we already knew. Don't get me wrong, this is not an angry post and I am not angry at anyone. Actually, if anything, I'm kind of smiling to myself, I'm pretty sure I have made the same mistake in the past.
 

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