Archive through February 08, 2017

[sblunier]

I happen to agree with Harry......however, this is another "beat a dead horse topic".

IH may have called the contraption they placed on the back of Cub Cadets a 3pt hitch on their literature, but the common term is "sleeve hitch" for many people.

"3pt hitch" denotes a system modeled after the Ferguson system (where the lower links do the lifting and the upper link serves to stabilize, adjust, and in some cases provide draft control) in common standardized use in Cat 0, I, II, III, IV form in the ag world. Other "quick attach systems" like the IH Fast Hitch, Case Eagle Claw, and AC Snap Coupler, all had their day in the sun, but the Ferguson "3pt hitch" has been the accepted standard since the early 60's. (Boy I wish I would have invented that....talk about patent royalties!!!)

Using the term for the IH Cub cadet rear implement hitch just flies in the face of what a 3pt really is......and many of us end up using "sleeve hitch" instead for that reason. (yes I know that the "sleeve hitch" is technically the clevis attachment between the implement and the adapter.......)

 

[wcompton]

Ooooh.... Ferguson System Draft Sensing

 

[sblunier]

Oooooooh, Torsion bar IH lower link draft sensing........makes Ferguson look BAD!!!!!

 

[ekincaid]

Hydro-yes the AGs set me back about a 100 a piece there Carlyles but if figured go big or go home,looks like I'll get a chance to exercise my qa36 snow thrower expecting 8-12inches of snow here

 

[mhomrighausen]

Ferguson was a top link sensing system. Ford went to bottom link on their later tractors. At the time Oliver and IH were number one in fastest sensing ability. Follwwed by Massey Ferguson, second and John Deere,Ford, Case, Allis Chalmers, etc . vying for third.

 

[hydroharry]

Wayne - hey there I went again

Sorry I opened that can again.

You know, it's just one of those things I really don't understand it in my own mind. Sometimes I say 3-point Hitch and sometimes I say Sleeve Hitch. I guess they pretty much just seem the same to me.

The biggest factor here is that Ethan paid $50 for his 3-point and got a 125 surrounding it, with what was a decent (now torn) seat, hydraulic lift, rear wheel weights and who knows what else. I haven't figured out yet if the QA36 came with it or if he picked that up afterwards.

Ethan - what's the story on the QA36? If you haven't used it yet and it's been sitting and the internal housing, auger and chute have gotten rusty - well you're not gonna be happy with the performance. On the other hand, if you already cleaned it up and coated it with some rust inhibitor (paint or otherwise) you may well be amazed at what it can do with 6-8" of snow.

 

[ekincaid]

Harry-no I bought the qa36 about three weeks ago from a guy in northern mass.he also kept it under a tarp so It had some light rust (not bad for a 66 qa)and I have been repainting it ,the only thing I have left is the auger to do and I'll do that tonight when I get home from work or prime it at least so it won't rust again,don't worry guys I got soaked on the thrower I paid 150 for that

 

[hydroharry]

Ethan - in my view paying $150 for a QA in nice shape, and located in your part of the country, ain't bad at all. You found the exact thrower made for your tractor - which is often the biggest obstacle. I can't tell you the number of times I've heard stories of people buying a unit thinking because it was Cub Cadet or IH that it would work on their tractor, or they would just have to buy the thing-a-majig to make it work. I don't know if you really knew what unit was correct for your tractor or you just lucked out - but at this point I think the latter.

 

[sblunier]

I agree, $150 for a good working thrower is very fair.........you have a very low cost rig there, even throwing in the cost for the ags!!!!!

 

[hydroharry]

Hmm, Steve you just got me thinking about a "good working thrower". I made an assumption Ethan's QA had a good auger with good bearings, good chain sprockets and adjusting bracket, good driveshaft, good right angle gearbox (bearings, shafts, keyways, gears). Now I'm wondering if Ethan has looked these things over or run the unit yet without snow.

Ethan - you just gotta figure out how to post pics. We need to see this QA you added to the 125. Better check the components I mentioned above too.

Under Edit - Ooh, and I was just thinking - if you add the tractor, AGs, thrower together you're into it for about $400. That's still a fair total price especially since you have hydraulic lift that works and the 3point hitch. Those 2 things by themselves are probably worth what you have into the unit.

 

[ekincaid]

From what I can tell the bearings,chain etc seem in good working order I greased all the fittings and the auger spins as smooth as velvet so we'll see I guess I can't break it until I use it Harry I'll piggy back anther pic to you

 

[ekincaid]

Hydro-I'm into my 125 for about 550 there were a few odds and ends that added up...some I probably didn't need to do but i felt and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure

 

[hydroharry]

Ethan - you're still doing well on the price. You can't count your labor costs. You do that for fun. I think your grill looks pretty decent too. I don't know if it's considered the zig-zag grill as others on here might call it but they'll let you know.

Here's the pics of the thrower. Auger doesn't look bad. I'd say needs more cleanup before paint, but my son (in CT) said they're calling for 14" tomorrow so you better get things together pretty quick. Hope you've got the missing pieces too (gearbox with pulley and mount, T-rod to rotate chute, eye rod to support T-rod, lift rod, special bracket for attaching lift rod to hydraulic lift). I'd start throwing when you have between 4-8 inches. If you try going at 14" to start with it will be over the housing and you'll have to rework areas.

 

[dschwandt]

Ethan, pay close attn. to the auger chain. The little link keeper will more than likely be the 1st thing that will fail if the chain is a mass of rust
The little keeper for the connector link will rust in two and then the chain will come apart and the link will be lost.

In fact, I'd spring for a new chain & link right off the bat to be sure. I was in the same boat w/my QA42A 1st time out, it was rusty as well and lasted about 50'!!
You are gonna love that thrower if you get enough snow to really get it to show it's stuff.

 

[hydroharry]

Ethan - I never had the problem David mentions but it's certainly worth checking closely. There were a couple problems I always discovered. One was the small chain sprocket having slop and requiring shims to square it up with the large sprocket so the chain runs straight AND so the small sprocket doesn't cut into that mounting bracket. You can still get that bracket brand new but it's costly.
Another thing to check closely is that you have the set screw torqued down really tight where the driveshaft connects to the output shaft of the gearbox. The set screw in the driveshaft is almost always 180degrees opposite the key and keyway (rather than over the top of the key), and it always comes loose and will allow the key to chew up the keyway. I recommend checking the set screw to make sure it's tight everytime you're gonna use the thrower.

And one other very important thing you'll need is protective outer wear. Since you don't have a cab (lots of guys want) that snow will likely mist the air and blow lightly back on you when you're throwing. I had a waterproof outfit I'd wear (pants and jacket) with a hood I could close down and barely see out. I might have a pic where you can see me wearing it. If I can 't find them I know Kraig has copies.

Oops, wrong pic

 

[ekincaid]

Harry depending on where your son is CT I'm only about an hour and a half from him.I hit the auger with my wire wheel on my hammer drill again right after i piggy backed those pics and I do have the t handle I just hadn't put it on yet and I'm waiting on primer to set,I'm no expert but the chain looked fairly new to me only about ten year old or so and only "surface rust"I hit it with some pb blaster and it cleaned/freed right up

 

[ekincaid]

Harry-no worries on the clothes I'm one of those wackos that enjoys snowmobiling I go to up state NY for snowmobiling

 

[hydroharry]

Ethan - you're about 2 1/2hrs from my son. Make sure that small chain sprocket isn't sliding back and forth in the mounting bracket (between the 2 grease zerks). It should have some shims to keep it in place. Otherwise the sprocket will cut into the aluminum mounting bracket. You probably won't even notice it happening. Just look at the sides of the sprocket and see what they are going against.

 

[ekincaid]

Hydro-I see one large washer on either side of the sprocket are these the shims your referring to if so then I have them

 

[ekincaid]

Hydro-I'm sorry I forgot to answer one of your questions,yes I researched the proper snow thrower for my unit so wish I could claim luck,and the right angle drive is still attached to the tractor in those pics some genius decided to weld the pulley to the shaft so I had pull the "pivot"pin and the drive shaft off to get the blower housing off the tractor so I could dismantle the grill support to service the pto