Scott, I'll speculate a little while were waiting for Dale to post. It looks like all that is, is two plates (1.5" x 3/16" bar stock?) bolted on to widen the adapter hitch area. Should be easy to fab up with just a hacksaw and a drill.
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Sleeve hitch
- Thread starter edale
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
snicklas
Well-known member
I may have to look into doing that. How much force is actually on the sway control? I guess not to much correct? I know that if you try to catch it over by the tire, it packs a punch, but only moving a couple of inches it would not be to bad. How much sway is acceptable, how far should it deviate when up, I know that down it stays straight behind you. Another thought, could I use 3 hitch pins to limit the movement? I am pretty sure it has the 3 pin hitch, or would that still be to much movement?
Scott, you're gonna have to experiment on using the other two hitch pins for providing anti-sway. When using a plow it does need to sway a little so do not lock it down tight.
From the Brinly Adapter manual:
From the Brinly Adapter manual:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Everett-
Why the odd size 7/16" Pivot pin? 1/2" will be fine.
Why the odd size 7/16" Pivot pin? 1/2" will be fine.
Sorry Gents for not responding sooner....My work has been busy.
Everett D.
I haven't had any problems with the cover bolts breaking. I've been using that set up for years.
Here is a better view of the stablizer plates on the early sleeve hitch:
That plow has some swing with the stablizer plates on.
I think the plates are a Brinly part. I'm planning to dig out my summer Cub stuff in the next few days. I will post some measurements when I get the stuff out.
Everett D.
I haven't had any problems with the cover bolts breaking. I've been using that set up for years.
Here is a better view of the stablizer plates on the early sleeve hitch:
That plow has some swing with the stablizer plates on.
I think the plates are a Brinly part. I'm planning to dig out my summer Cub stuff in the next few days. I will post some measurements when I get the stuff out.
I'm ganna need to find someone with a stick welder to do the construction. I can cut shape and drill everything, but welding that thick is beyond me and my meager shop.
As for the 7/16 hole, I measured the mounting holes in the frame and they were 7/16. I took the measurement in a hurry with a cheap set of digital calipers so maybe I'll double check.
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong holes as well. Or should there be some kind of bushing in there?
-everett
As for the 7/16 hole, I measured the mounting holes in the frame and they were 7/16. I took the measurement in a hurry with a cheap set of digital calipers so maybe I'll double check.
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong holes as well. Or should there be some kind of bushing in there?
-everett
mgonitzke
Well-known member
You definitely need bushings in there. It'd be best to make some brackets that bolt to those holes in the frame and have bushings in them. The holes in the frame cannot support that bearing load.
Dale, thank you!
Okay then,
The next question is...
Anyone got photos of how the original part is attached? I was kinda wondering how the thin frame steel would support the kind of load that would be put there. A instillation manual would be cool. Then I can fab up an attachment point.
-everett
The next question is...
Anyone got photos of how the original part is attached? I was kinda wondering how the thin frame steel would support the kind of load that would be put there. A instillation manual would be cool. Then I can fab up an attachment point.
-everett
Everett, if you look back at the photo Don posted of the cast part, you can see that on some wide frame Cubs, there were spacer/bushings pressed into the frame, later versions used special bolts. (Photos were recently posted in the main forum by Charlie)
rdeephouse
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2010
- Messages
- 64
- displayname
- Roger Deephouse
just had to post a few pictures of my custom hitch so far no problems, and at the pivot point in the frame i bored pockets for spools to btm out in, the lift arm and cross shaft are 4140 prehard, and cut the matching radious of the cross shaft on the working arm and mig welded all togather my welding isnt the best but its been picking my Brinly outa the dirt with nota prob
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snicklas
Well-known member
Dale M,
Thanks for the pic. I need to figure something out. I may be able to use something like is onn your setup, but I have the 3 hole hitch. I may be ablr to do something like you have, it would just need to be applied to the hitch a bit diferently. I wondered if using 3 hitch pins would work. I will have to do some expermenting. Thank you all.
Thanks for the pic. I need to figure something out. I may be able to use something like is onn your setup, but I have the 3 hole hitch. I may be ablr to do something like you have, it would just need to be applied to the hitch a bit diferently. I wondered if using 3 hitch pins would work. I will have to do some expermenting. Thank you all.
Roger D.
I've got to ask what this is all about, and why.
I've got to ask what this is all about, and why.
rdeephouse
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2010
- Messages
- 64
- displayname
- Roger Deephouse
your hitch is held much more securly with two locations insted of one
Yes I know what a double shear is, but the what looks like a 22.5 degree angle on it, is what i was referring too.
Charlie, I think that is an optical illusion.
rdeephouse
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2010
- Messages
- 64
- displayname
- Roger Deephouse
no angle fellers just std strait out
