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Sleeve hitch

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But if ya read the whole thread it was about the lift bar (actually lift lever in the parts lookup for a 120)...and has one of the better pieces of info I've seen lately - the dimensions of the lift bar/lever casting.... pretty serendipitous mislabeling if you ask me.....
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On another note - anyone know - is this just a casting (and is it iron or steel)or is it a forging?? I suspect the former in steel and would think that a standard grey iron casting wouldn't be any stronger than a similar piece fabbed from steel (welded properly) .....
 
I Kinda figured I'd need to measure everything before I started cutting and welding, I usually do just to be on the safe side. You know measure once cut twice, do it over, cut it again, give up. That's my system.

Anyway. I think I can come up with something that will work. I've got a sleeve hitch on my "other" tractor (craftsman) that I will use as an example. It's really tough and has never given me any trouble, except that it is manually operated.

Drawings are on the way.

-everett
 
Myron B
Here is a few pictures of the different style sleeve hitches that Cub Cadets used.
First style:
187391.jpg

Second style-this is on my 100 and 70:
187392.jpg

Third style:
187393.jpg

The main difference bettween the 2nd and 3rd style sleeve hitch adapters is in the area where the implement connects to the sleeve hitch adapter.

Don B. Thanks
 
Hi Dale:

Oh, I know what a sleeve hitch is and, unfortunately, those aren't sleeve hitches either...they are sleeve hitch adaptors. But, in case you are interested and don't know, the sleeve hitch, itself, can be found on the tongue of a plow or other implement.

My original post was because of the uninformed use of incorrect terms. Folks just throw around the terms "sleeve hitch", "sleeve hitch adaptor", 3-point lift" and "Cat O" like they are the same and/or have the same meaning. They don't.

I figure if a fellow is going to discuss something, at least he ought to know what the subject is.

My apology for the rant.

Myron B
 
Well let's not argue the point, but when I bought the unit for the back of my craftsman tractor it was called a sleeve hitch. That's what the manual says as well.
The sleeve hitch ADAPTER that sears offers for the tractor is an attachment that goes on the optional 3 point hitch I could have bought. It would allow sleeve hitch attachable tools to be hooked up to the 3 point. Maybe Sears has it wrong who knows.

Now about the implement attachment point I want to add to my Cub Cadet, so I can use my Brinly style gear...
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Here is what I plan to build. Anyone see any inherent design flaws?

187418.jpg


187419.jpg


The main rod is 1 inch thick the control arms are 1/4 inch thick. I'm not sure about the hole sizes yet but 1/2 inch seems about right. The whole thing will pivot on a 1/2 grade 5 (or higher) pin. And I will drill and tap a grease zert in there somewhere.

-everett
 
OOH, I have another question.

Dale M, in that third photo I notice that the hitch is connected to your rear end just by the bolts that hold the cover plate on. Do you ever worry that you might yank that off or bust a bolt? I saw that Aaron Schmidt at Xtreammotorworks has a few that will also attach to the sides of the rear end, do you think it might be overkill?

-everett
 
Everett:
My "gut engineering" tells me that the 1/4" plate will bend/tear at the joints. If you look at the fabbed piece that broke on Charlie, it looks like that was using at least 3/4" and possibly more, with gusseting at the root. I think whoever built that was on the right track. The original cast piece is still a good model in the massive proportions of it for it's overall size. BTW - I'd call it a "bell crank" in any other venue.....
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Dale M: Apparently I'll have to eat some crow... I try to not do it often, but I've been wrong before. I did some research and my Brinly reference volumes also calls the items in your photo's Hitches and the item on the tongue of the implements a yoke. Till I come across the source of my original definitions, I'll call 'em Brinly Sleeve Hitches also...

Myron B
 
Kendell's gut feeling is right. With some rudimentary calculations, his current design results in a stress at the joint of either of the 1/4" pieces and the tube that exceeds the yield stress of the material by 60% and is just under the ultimate strength at a rough estimation of the max load it would experience.

Non-engineer translation: It'll bend the first time you use it and break the second time. Those pieces need to be 1/2" at a minimum if not 5/8" or 3/4". The one my dad and I made for my 582 has a 5/8" piece for the part that connects to the lift arm. The other piece is a piece of thick-wall pipe that was gusseted with some 3/8" or 1/2" steel. I haven't broken it yet, but it hasn't seen anything heavier than a 10" Brinly.
 
One question while on the Sleave Hitch Adaptor. We have a "first style" like pictured below, and one problem we always have, is when we lift the plow out of the ground, it wants to swing around toward the carb side of the tractor against the tire. We have been able to get it to catch and hold if we use a rubber strap to kinda kink it over. We do not have the vetical plate with the 2 bolts in it, are we missing something?
 
Scott:
If you check the illustrations for the Brinley hitches in the attachment catalog (from Charlie's ccmanuals server), you'll see they both have the two bolts you're referring to. I can remember discussion regarding setting of these bolts in the past but we'll have to rely on someone with a better memory than me (hint hint - Kraig) to come up with that..
 
Kendell, I believe Scott has the "wishbone" style. No bolts. It appears the one that Dale posted (top photo in hos post) has a bolt on anti-sway device. I've never seen one with that on it.

Dale, can you provide any info on the anti-sway device, or whatever it is?

Here's another view of the "wishbone" style, this one is mine that I bought for use on my Original. I have yet to use it, I've been using my modified Toro brand adapter because it has the adjusting bolts.

187436.jpg
 
The "wishbone" style was intended for use with the older style Brinly Plow with a single hole in the yoke, perhaps if the newer style Brinly plow with the 3 holes in the yoke is used on the old style "wishbone" adapter there is too much clearance and the plow flops around.
dunno.gif
I only have the old style plow, I could measure the distance from the center of the hole to the front edge of the plow's mounting yoke to compare to the newer 3 hole yoke, provided someone is willing to measure their newer style.
 
When I get home I'm going to start lobbying my buddy Don to look into that Ironworker he keeps threatening to buy for his shop - it'd make the drawbar bends soooo much nicer..and punching all those holes soooo much easier than drilling.
 
I was going to measure this in the morning but decided to measure it tonight. My description of where to measure was not very good so I made a quick sketch.

187453.jpg
 
Here is the new drawing.

The Main bar is 1 1/2 inch thick with a 7/16 inch hole drilled along it's length. it will rotate on a 7/16 inch grade 5 pin.

The stock it 1/2 inch thick and the holes are all 5/8 inch.

What do you think?

187469.jpg


it's modeled after this one on my craftsman.


187470.jpg


-everett
 
Thanks all,

Kraig I will have to measure this, once I dig it out of the barn, but yes we do have the wishbone style and it looks excatlly like the one that you posted. I believe the plow has the 3 whole hitch on it. One thing that I noticed in the picture that Dale Merkle posted of the wishbone type adapter, is it has 2 vertical metal straps around the area in the wishbone the hitch pin goes through for the plow. I wonder if this is some type of anti-swing for the wishbone style. The plow and adapter were bought together from an IH Dealer 30+ years ago and have always been a "set". I believe that dad bought it used. I know it is a pain with that thing swining around back there, I don't remember the number of times that I have heard the chink, chink, chink sound of the plow frame being hit by the chains.

So with the other 2 styles, do you adjust the bolts and plate that goes around the sleave to limit the swing of the implement?
 
Scott, yes the bolts are there to adjust the "sway" of the implement. I agree, the plates on Dale's adapter appear to be some sort of anti-sway device.

Dale?

Everett, looks good to me, however I'd wait for those that have commented previously on your design. I will mention that the depth of your weld penetration will be the key factor in it's strength.

Ken?
 
Kraig,

I do need something to limit the "sway". Currently, it will sway until it touched the tire.... which does a good job of stopping the sideways sway, but I would like it limited much more that that. Plowing has always been a 2 person job for us (before this site was around and we do not have it adjusted correctly), when I was a kid it was my job to be "ballast" for the plow and to keep it out behind the tractor while dad plowed their garden. Now I drive and my son is ballast while we plow our garden....
 

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