Sleeve hitch

[edale]

I just contacted Aaron Schmidt at Xtreme Motorworks about getting parts for putting a sleeve hitch on my 982. He said I would need to find "<font color="ff0000">the cast iron top part and rod that go up to the deck lift hydraulic cylinder.</font>"

Anyone know what that is? The rod I can figure out I think but the cast iron part isn't ringing any bells.

I'd love to see a photo of one if anyone has one and photos of anyone with a sleeve hitch system from Xtreme Motorworks or similar.

thanks

-everett

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dale, I do not believe that there was ever a version of that hitch made to fit the 982. It could be possible to adapt one to fit however. The top cast piece that you would likely want to use would be the one used on a wide frame Cub and here is what it looks like. As for the "rod" that would more likely be made of bar stock, something like 3/8" x 2". If you go to CC Specialties and look in the "3 Points & Sleeve Hitches" category, look for "lift bar" and you'll see the various designs used on the narrow and wideframe Cubs.

 

[dtanner]

here is a picture of my 149 that shows the part you will need for the lift. Do you have the lift bar?

 

[edale]

Ok.

That's a nice piece of cast iron there. I don't suppose there is an after market source for that.

All I want to do is use all the sleeve hitch attachments I have for my craftsman tractor. You'd think it wouldn't be that big a deal. anyway. Anyone got any suggestions on what I can do?

-everett

 

[kmcconaughey]

Everette, you could have something welded up out of steel. Others have, as long as you don't try to lift something too heavy you should be OK. Here's one example.

 

[edale]

So, I think I'll try building one of these from steel, Kinda like the one Kraig pictured. From the photos here, I'll make a few guesses.

The control arm and the lift arm are at 90 degrees from each other.

The control arm looks to be about 6 inches long. The lift arm is a bit shorter.

Is the body drilled hollow for a shaft the passes through it? Held in place by a 1/2 inch rod that is rotates on?

If someone can give me some basic measurements I should be able to build something that will work.

Thanks

-everett

 

[kmcconaughey]

Everett, hopefully someone with an actual WF rear lift will post some dimension info for you. I only have narrow frame lifts.

Don, ?

 

[digger]

It's been tried by more than one person and they all end up breaking!
Here's one that I broke for the guy that said it would outlast my tractor after only 20 minutes with a tiller on the back.

 

[mgonitzke]

I've had a very crude homemade one on my 582 for awhile and I have yet to break it. It's coming off as soon I as I can finish building a Cat-0 for it though.

 

[dbellamy]

I saved this from somewhere, I wish I could give credit to whomever did this

 

[edale]

Wow Don!

great drawing. I'll give you credit, at least for having it

That should give me everything I need to construct one for my self. But can you tell me what the part with the "C" and "D" markings is? That attach to the hydraulic cylinder somehow?

As for home made versions busting, I have some ideas in that direction. I figure that for every pound of weight on the sleeve hitch rod there will be three maybe four pounds on the lift arm of this thing. So a 150lb tiller will put up to 600lbs on the lift arm. Not a lot if it's built so the steal takes the load and not the weld. but still a considerable amount of weight to overcome. I'll put together some drawings and submit them here for scrutiny.

-everett

 

[dbellamy]

Thats the lift bar attatching plate, it connets the bar to the rockshaft

Thanks Dale for this pic showing the lockout as well

 

[mgonitzke]

Everett-

A 982 will use a clevis pin to attach the lift bar to the rockshaft, so the lift block in the picture Don posted (the part with dimensions C and D in his drawing) isn't needed. Also, you'll have to come up with dimension H yourself, as it'll be different than for the tractors that normally use this type of 3-point.

 

[dbellamy]

Matt,
Thanks , I usually try not to give much advise as most of the stuff I have not done myself and I wouldn't want someone to be led down the wrong path.
I think that was my disclosure hehe.
On a side note I have 3 different drawings for a WF lift bar rangeing from 25 in to 29 in so you saved me from certain embarassment.
Back to

for me.

 

[kide]

Hmmm.... looks like the "Great Lift Bar Challenge" for those of us that can stick steel together...Charlie - any pics of it after it broke?? That stock looks plenty heavy -was the weldor runnin' bird shi* for welds?? I'll be firing up the big blue box as soon as we get home....

 

[kweaver]

Kendell - I thought about taking the CHALLENGE too !
I've welded 6 foot long forks where they were broke in the "elbow" that haven't been broke since.

.....

wait ... Digger's just trying to get FREE sets of lifts sent to him

 

[dross]

Think DOM and fishmouth.

 

[kweaver]

Yea , I wuz eyeballin my DOM about an hour ago

 

[digger]

No pics,
I had my doubts before I attached it and they panned out, he took his POS home and that's the last I've seen of him.
I do know that Aaron has one in the works right now, and I know the welding will be right.
But me personally will stick with good ole cast iron!

 

[mbounds]

The only thing wrong with this thread is that there is NOT even one sleeve hitch in sight!! I do see several iterations of the IH 3-point lift assemblies though....Hmmmmmm

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom