FRANK - I wired in a separate switch for the white rear light on my 72 right next to the light because I have two red & two amber rear lights wired off the main switch along with the two frt white lights. I can turn the white rear light on/off as needed.
On my 982, It had a separate switch for something added below the instrument panel, not sure what it was used for but I wired up white work lights under the foot rests to light up the outer ends of the 50" deck for mowing after dark on that switch. And for other rear mounted attachments I added a small panel with a white rear light wired into that same circuit/switch.
So the key switch operates the starting & running of the engine, plus the white headlights in the grill, and the red tail lights in the fenders, and the separate switch runs all the work lights. Saves amp draw on the 15A charging system when working late. The white side facing work lights light up enough ahead of the tractor for me to not need the headlights in most situations. If I need them, the key switch to turn the headlights on is right there in the dash.
One suggestion for anyone adding electrical circuits to a CC, tapping power from the battery is really simple, but buy an in-line fuse holder, one that either uses a glass tube style fuse, but preferably a spade type fuse, they seem to last MUCH longer than the cheap imported glass tube fuse style, and solder a terminal to the one end of the fuse holder and connect it right to the battery so the entire new circuit is fused and the fuse is easy to get to. And I use 12 ga MTW wire to wire everything regardless of amp draw. That way you can add other lights or accessories to the circuit without drawing too many amps for the wire, plus it's much more physically strong, and it's already fused, if the fuse does blow simply put a larger fuse in as long as it doesn't exceed 20A. And I solder and insulate with heat shrink tubing on ALL connections. And I NEVER have problems with electrical connections. I've tried many of the crimp-on connectors and splices and gave them up years ago, but soldering then heat-shrinking has never caused me problems thru the years. If the wire run goes thru a dangerous location, close to moving parts, I'll enclose the wire in convoluted conduit and zip-tie the conduit to convenient stationary stuff so the wire run stays away from the moving parts. It may take just a few minutes longer to wire things this way but it saves you countless HOURS of trouble-shooting over the years. So says the guy with an AM/FM/Cass deck radio on his CC.
