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Motorcycle Lift for Cubbies

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bnolte

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2006
Messages
603
displayname
Bruce Nolte
I got the bright idea of buying one of those Harbor Freight motorcycle lifts to assist me working on my Honda Shadow. Unfortunately, after I got it together I found out that I really can't use it for it's intended purpose, as the bike has lots of engine bits sticking out below the frame in all the wrong spots. Before I try to return it or sell it on Craigslist, I was wondering if anyone has found such a lift to be useful when working on Cubs?
 
A motor cycle lift table has the same clearance as when the bike is on the ground. And those engine parts sticking out below the frame have not moved. The same will be true with a cub or anything else you ride or push onto your lift table. But I may have misunderstood. You may want to invest an extra $50.00 for a 1000 lb. scissor jack to use with the table.
 
This is what I use with my HD Low Rider that has very low ground clearance. I do not use the black pieces but you might be able to if you have the clearance. It is rated at 500 kg. I think that's around 800 lbs.
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hi there i use a old hospital bed its a Bariatric bed its rated at 800lb it works great it lowers down to about 1 foot and one end tilts down you drive the tractor ore push it up on the bed then raise it up to about 3 and a half feet to the top of the bed and its all elictric
 
Richard P: Please!! Always put an Enter/Carriage Return stroke between photo's!!! Thattaway the rest of us won't need a nine foot wide monitor to read the forum.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Richard:
He said lift, not table (I see HF calls both types a lift).... What Bruce has(I'm pretty sure) looks like a transmission jack..and DOES have problems if there aren't adapters to provide center clearance for the engine sump that sticks below the frame on a lot of bikes (including my V-Star 1100)..

Bruce:
Time to break out the welder and lash up some side spacers for that lift...
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Isn't anyone going to point out that 500 kgs equals 1102.3 lbs?
 
Richard, I did notice that today and was going to say its 11,000 lbs. But noticed your correction with an unusual weight. So I did what you did and looked up Kilogram... 2.2046#/kg! I didnt know that !!
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Of all the things I've lost ... I miss my mind the most.
 
I should have done this the first time, so here's a picture of the jack... and the motorcycle it would lift.

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Harbor Frieght Has a motorcycle lift that will lift any Motorcycle and if you extend the sides and ramp any Cub Starting at 379.00 1000pds not sure about the current Gold wing but My 1000 pd Hardy would lift them. I don' think you can build your own for that price
 
Over the summer I've found that the motorcycle lift does a commendable job on Cub Cadets. For lifting the front end of the tractor, the pads fit right under the frame rails, and in the back, it can support the back end with the pads holding about an inch and a half of each side of the differential, enough to keep things stable when changing a tire or whatever.

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I'm in the market for an inch pound torque wrench and have no idea what to get. Probably on that goes up to 100 or so. Clicker type or dial??

I have a foot pound wrench I've had for yrears but it's a fairly big brute, 1/2" drive

Anyone familiar w/these wrenches can offer some guidence here please?? 3/8" or 1/4" drive??

I see all kinds of 'em on e-bay from $20 on up. Or should I just order one from sears and let it go at that?

TIA

Dave Schwandt
 
I've got 3/8" & 1/2" Craftsman beam style & they work for me. # 2 son is Ford Tech & said his hi-tech ones were better, until we compared both types with No difference...
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I agree with PAUL. I've got a big 1/2" drive Craftsman Digitork, think it goes to 250 #/ft, but for the little stuff, small engine work I have a 3/8" drive Craftsman bending beam wrench, think it's rated to 500-600 inch-pounds (41-50 #/ft), plenty for small engine work. Except the nut on the flywheel.

Torque wrenches are generally only accurate in the top half of their torque range, so get one that fits your normal applications. And just use them for tightening. And on the click-stop style, ALWAYS back the adjustment down to Zero or "STOP" after use. It keeps them in calibration MUCH longer. I consider a torque wrench a precision tool, and I treat mine like they are.
 

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