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The kohler flywheels are not very close for balence. some are terrible. now think about this. the crank from a 14 is the same as a 16. the piston is heavier in the 16. 3.5 bore compared to 3.75 in the 16. most L&G dealers in our area always tried to direct customers to the 14s over the 16 because of the shakes the 16 had.
 
DON - Does it pay to balance a 14 HP? I'm more worried about long term metal fatigue like Steve on a combination mow/plow tractor than maximum horsepower. On My 129 after the severly out-of-balance flywheel wreaked havoc on the hood and the motor mount bolt holes in the alum. oil pan the four mounting bolts on the steering pedestal even cracked out.
 
i need to know the average weight of a superstock pulling tractor i hope its under 800lbs
thanks
 
Robert H.,there is no average weight for Super Stock.It depends on the club you are pulling with.
The weight for Super Stock at an NQS event,NQS being the national governing body,is not more than 1050lbs. and that the displacement not be more than 50.5 cubic inches
 
Anyone pulling at RPRU on Saturday I cannot decide if I want to pull there or with my regular club
 
while NQS and most clubs run a 1050 class ,ost builders shoot for a lighter weight so they can balence. figure your avrage driver at 200 lbs , you need around 100 lbs to balence on a tough pulling track so yo could figure about 750 for a bare minimum tractor weight. our are less probably around 675 to 700

Denny , it don't hurt.
 
Don there were a lot of Cub pullers at RPRU some pics
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Hey Everybody!

I want an experienced Kohler-Bowler to give me an opinion.

This is the K241 which originally came in my 109. It disintigrated a rod, and whacked this little chunk out of the block...
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Dy'a think I can just clean the edges up with a die-grinder and put the block back into service? The chunk appears to barely reach the bottom edge of the piston skirt (by looking at marks on the bore. The bore's in excellent condition, no ridge... of course, the rod and bolts are trash, but the pan appears okay, and my cursory look at the crank shows nothing. I'll take another look tomorrow, when my eyes are clearer...

Next question:
I've got a 14hp parts motor... other'n the long dipper on the rod cap, can I use the rod in this 10hp? If so, do I just slice off the dipper?
 
Dave-
Check out my March 29, 2004 - 05:11 pm post. Looks like you've got a start on a long-rod engine!
 
Hi Wyatt!

Yep- I remember when you were talking about that... but didn't remember who, when, or where it was.

Now, Did you take yours away intentionally for rod clearance, or was a chunk already out?

What's the rest of the engine consist of?
 
This has to be a stupid question,but,somehow the logic of lengthening the wheelbase of a stock/altered(36.5 cubic inches,1050lbs on methanol)escapes me.Can someone enlighten me regards the applicable theory.
 
Dave , champfer it off , shouldn't be a problem. make sure theres no cracks going out away from it .

John , I guess the main one is to get your weight out further.
 
Don I was wondering if there was another reason because in Stock/Altered you are limited to 84" from the centre of the rear axle to the most forward point of the tractor ie. the boom.That means that the way I see it you could lenthen the tractor but you would have to shorten the boom thus cancelling each other out.I still feel I'm missing something,just not sure what.
 
John while you lengthen the tractor by moving the frame ahead you move the engine, grill ect ahead also. yes you need to shorten the boom but you have still moved alot of weight further forward, while maintaining the 84 in overall length. a long boom can hurt you also , think about a teeter-totter
this is nice if you pull on tracks that have decent bite , but on dust bowls it could hurt you if you can't ballence
 
Don!Since my last post I had a long chat with my brother and chief fabricator and of course you are totally correct.
On a non biting track,the extra weight forward does not help,but you could always ditch any up front weight and the boom if need be and probably be no worse off.Anyhow,next weekend we'll be 4 inches longer.I do thank you a ton for your input because yor experience varifies our theory.
 
Hey Guys!

Got the broken chunk area cleaned up. I didn't find any areas of incipient cracking... I cleared off all edges, and dressed the fractured surface to prevent any stress risers that might come in the future.

After measuring the bore several times, I think it has no wear... I'm reading 3.250" at both ends... I know there's an absolutely miniscule wear ridge, but it's so fine that I can't even hook my fingernail on it.

Should I bother worrying about an overbore or just lightly hone and install a new piston? What about a 0.003 over piston? (I see they spec it as a valid oversize...)

Has anybody put together a basic 'street performance' recipie for building up a K241 like Kirk's Killer K301?
 
Dave,

Sure......install a K-301 or K-321 small flywheel....
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Ya know Steve...I was thinking the exact same thing. But he has a 109, so he could go big flywheel even.
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Why even bother with the 10hp unless you are going for a 10hp puller for the little one?
 
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