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GROUND UP RESTO ON 128

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Travis - that 128 is a GREAT FIND, especially for the price. I see vertually NO RUST. Some dirt here and there but for what you got it appears terrific. I'm somewhat surprised at your complete tear down. I would have recommended getting a running engine so you could drive and see what problems you have. You might want to even re-consider putting it back together the way it is to determine how the steering is, all the wiring works, how the PTO works, the drive clutch and tranny works. As Jeff noted it's a black engine and certainly appears to be a replacement, most likely it was a complete long block with carb since the air cleaner cover is also black. To bade the it sounds as tho the balance gears let go. Jeff suggested posting on the Classifieds for a used engine. If you can find a bare block and your crank is ok you might get a complete rebuild for around $500++, less if you do it yourself, but I recommend getting experienced help if you do that - ast least on here. I believe there is a place in Indiana/Ohio that sells remanufactured short blocks for under $800 which you could also consider, and use your original head, oil pan, carb, basket pulley, starter/generator, flywheel shroud and tin work, etc. After you get the engine running you can decide where you might have any other problems and fix those as you go thru the tractor. Honestly, based on the appearance of your paint and no rust that I can really see I'm not sure I'd even fully strip it down, just fix any rust, prime, wet sand and feather, and go to the final coat. I'd even consider saving the hood/dash decals. Can't see them really well in the pics but I've salvaged many by masking off and doing fine touch up painting. You can get aftermarket replacement decals which are nice, but I still like to keep the originals if possible. Oops, I can't tell really well if the back of the fenders are tweeked in - they may need to be pulled out just a tad but it's hard to tell from your pics.
 
Travis: Great shots of you and your son. I would be looking on Craig's List for an engine if you don't get a response to an advertisement in the Forum's classifieds (and you probably will, if you try it).

I agree with Harry that your wide frame looks to be in excellent condition, it must have been garage-kept for most or all of its life. I would agree with him that you might want to plan your painting campaign carefully. From what I understand, International Harvester did not use primer in their painting process; they etched the parts somehow and immediately painted them. So if you strip the paint off, you have to go with a primer and then paint, etc. Unless you really like painting, a judicious touch-up may get you the biggest bang-for-the-buck, like Harry said.

Tearing it all down at once does make it easier to fix the places that are known to wear, like:

1. Drive shaft couplings (especially at the motor end.
2. Clutch: Resurface metal plates if replacement of friction plate is required; check condition of springs and linkage
3. Steering Components, including:
---a. Steering box itself (cam follower)
---b. Tie rod ends (recommended replacement: HD version)
---c. Pivot Pin (recommended replacement: HD bolt to keep axle cross-member "ears" tight)
---d. Check condition of Swivel pins and bushings for front wheels
4. Check condition of shifting fork and cup
5. Check front wheel bearings
6. Electrical Items include:
---a. Brake switch and spring steel actuator
---b. Ignition switch
---c. Light switch (if equipped)
---d. Fuse holder
7. Mechanical PTO (but you'll be getting into that on the engine repair/replacement)

Those are the items that come to mind for me. There may be other issues to check on a standard transmission model, all my tractors are hydrostatic. I do know that many people have found the "competition" clutch springs to be inappropriate for daily use, plus they wear out the other components. The standard IH clutch design is sufficient to the day.

I'm sure you'll discover lots to fix, and I hope much that is worth saving. Good luck, and welcome to the Forum.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. The tractor had put kept under an old truckbed cap for the last 5-7 years is what I was told. The deck is worse off than any of it. I have already purchased another block from Ebay so i am hoping that I will only have to buy minimal parts and be able to use most of what I have. As for the paint, I plan on taking them to work and blasting what I can in the small blast cabinet with a very fine glassbead shot that we use to blast stainless parts, and plan on doing the same on the larger parts with the bigger industrial blaster. There is a place here locally that offers powder coating services to the general public. I thought about checking them out but if I dont like them I will paint the parts my self. Honeslty just kinda feeling my way out as I go. Assembly line quality dont happen in a day. Happy wrenching and I look forward to more commments.
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Travis - well I can see blasting the deck. From what I can see it is rusty and will need some restoration help. I've never used glass bead but assume it's better than sand, which on small parts can make them brittle and subject to cracking from the heat. I prefer a wire wheel on a right angle grinder for most things but won't work for all. I still hate to see you do it to the fenders and other things where the paint looks good but flat. I see you mentioned powder coating. You might want to check Charlie's CC Specialties link above. Under his paint listing he did have some correct yellow color powder coating available in large quantities.
Say, I see something in the last pic you posted and can't make out what it is. Looks like it's a wire hanging over the frame, just about at the front of the tractor, about in line with the muffler. Doesn't look like the points, but I'm wondering if it's some fancy aftermaket set up that replaces the points. The biggest problem I see is knowing if what you have is still original or previous owner modification of original. Sounds as tho you have a local contact that may help you identify those things but you can come back here as well. I've posted some pics of my 169 before and after. I'll post the before pic here again so you see what it look like sitting under my back deck for about 7 years. I did remove the engine and kept it in my garage. This was probably the toughest one I've had to do. As you can see about the only thing I was able to salvage was the frame and the engine (really fortunately to have the engine). I picked it up at a salvage yard and revitalized her. As you might have noticed from my motto - Old Cubs Never Die, and it sounds like yours may have just been resting for 7 years waiting for you to come back along. You can see the "after pic" of my 169 in my profile. Keep us posted on your progress and we do love pics.
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Harry: I had never seen your "Before" picture; yeah, that is rough! But having a 169 afterward certainly makes the restoration effort worthwhile (especially one that looks as good as yours does).
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Harry, I think that is travis points and the points cover with it.
 
Jeremiah - hey thanks. There was alot of joy when I completed it. (Don't tell Jeff but I had to use parts from about 3 other donor units. I'm sure those units are still just resting, waiting for that right person to come along to brighten their life again).

Jeff - I see now that probably is the complete points assembly with the cover still on. It was late last nite and my lights were dim so I couldn't see it well.

Travis - just happen to think. Hope you got the correct version Kohler K block off ePain. There are 3 styles and the one with the correct mounting in a Cub is probably rarest.
 
Harry said he used a Donor
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Travis that is coming apart nicely keep us updated.
 
YOU GUYS ARE A WEALTH OF INFORMATION. KINDA TO MUCH TO TAKE IN ALL AT ONCE. GLAD THIS SITE KEEPS ALL THESE POSTS IN ORDER. UPDATES TO FOLLOW....HAPPY WRENCHING.
 
Hello Travis,

My first cub cadet was a 128. I did a total restore on it(every bolt, nut, washer, etc.) except for the internals of the engine and transmission. I did all the work myself and invested a little over 2000 bucks. I used OEM parts if at all possible, and if not, used exact reproduction parts.
Be patient, take plenty of notes, pictures, and label ALL parts. I will be glad to answer any questions to the best of my ability.
I don't have any before pics on my computer, and don't have a scanner, but here are some pics of the finished product.
It looks like the frame is wrinkled above the front tire in the first pic, but it is just the lighting, as you can see in the last pic.
I have since added head lights and a "correct" rear lift with spring assist.
There may be some before pics in the archives around Oct. 2009.

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