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mtoney

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Apr 18, 2004
Messages
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Mike Toney
The rear sleeve hitch was an option on all cubs, if you go way back to the early days of Cub Cadets, even the mower deck was an option. The price on the tractor was for just the tractor, no options, if you wanted fenders, lights, mower deck, lift hitch ect. You added them on like optioning out an automobile. Cheers Mike
 
WOW, I take an afternoon off from the forum and I have two pages to catch up on!

RYAN - Prime wheels are the standard factory wheel equipment, normally cast centers and demountable steel rims. Duals normally were cast hubs and steel disc wheel&rim. At least for IHC and FARMALL, The big Steiger 4X4's used steel disc wheels for all wheels on the three IH models they built, Steiger also had their own rim rolling line so they made all their own wheels for everything they built. FARMALL supplied the hubs as well as the whole assembled rearends. Some of the smaller tractors now from the compacts to about 100 HP use stamped steel centers with bolt-on rims.

KENDELL - I normally didn't run in "Road Gear" in the field, hense the name "Road Gear"
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Anyhow, a little centrifugal force would get most of the bigger chunks of mud out from between the duals, since none of Dad's tractors had cabs there was always a LOT of caution given to dodging the larger chunks, sometimes the wheels would get out of balance too. The "Other farm" was about 1/4 mile down the road and the path back to the back 40 was about the same distance. Most of the mud would come out in a couple hundred feet. Our road was pretty lightly traveled, and the next big rain washed all the chunks away. Just another one of the Joys of country living!

Mowed yesterday afternoon, first time in six weeks the whole yard got mown. The ground was wet but the grass was dry due to 25 mph winds. Even the stuff I hadn't mowin in six weeks wasn't really tall, but since We've had about 6 inches of rain in the last week according to the NWS it was at least Green!
 
Andrew S welcome
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nice 106 you got there. You will find alot of excelent advice here i know i do also watch out these things are addicting.
 
Hello all;
Made mention of this in The Sandbox,but I'll ask this question here,too.
My 149 started acting up yesterday and I'm cosidering pulling the K321 and putting it in my 128.Rember;the one with the "window" in the block.
Has anyone used a 14hp in a gear drive and what ,if any,are your recommendations?
Thanks to all;everyone's opinion is valuable,so don't be shy!
Bobby B.
 
Bobby, are you sure it's a problem with the hydro?
 
BOBBY - I spent about five hours on a 14 HP GD CC yesterday, a small flywheel K321 in a CC 72 NF.
Since Your talking similar vintage WF's the swap should only take a couple hours. It's a bolt-in. JUST DO IT!!!!
 
Bobby B., There was talk a while back about a sheared pin in the drive shaft in front of the hydro, as I recall it would move a little but quit under any type of load. Just a thought...
 
Kraig,Dennis,and Allen;

Yea,it was the hydro.Seems it's particular about the amount of Hy-Tran that is in it!Go figure! A fluid system not responding correctly when the level is low.
It is working better now,I'm just a little tired of the constant leaking. Replaced the cork gasket and that cured one major leak,now I have a check valve pouring.One of the trunnion seals is seeping,also.
I'm not complaining,just frustrated.Seems like a 14 horse gear drive would be the ultimate plow tractor,less the hydraulic lift, of course.
Whew,I feel better guys,thanks for letting me vent!
Bobby B.
 
I got a new belt today for the 123 from the pto to the deck and it is too long! I think I need one that is about 1 1/2 to 2 inches shorter. I also think I have the wrong mule drive for it. The one that the PO gave me is like the quick attach and I think I remember seeing on here that it was a bolt on one for the 123. Does that make a difference or should I go with a "custom" size belt? I saw in Charlies faq's that there are 78" and 79" lengths.
 
Kraig, when you painted the steering wheel did you rough it up before and use any primer?? I'm rebuilding one now and I doubt the paint would stick if it wasn't rough sanded.
 
Richard C., I don't recall if I sanded it or not,
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I probably did lightly, just to clean it up some.
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I know I wiped it down with lacquer thinner, then primed it and painted it.
 
I tried the contact us link on Kohlers site about the balance gears but couldn't get it to work. So I called and left a message asking if it was suggested to remove them prior to installation of a new engine.

We'll see if they ever call me back. I didn't have a dealer account number to leave them.

I emailed my dealer who's been around awhile and he hadn't heard of the service bulletin. I don't have any stake in this, just curious.
 
KEITH - When I rebuilt My K301 years ago (before Al Gore invented the Internet?) at first start-up a circlip came off and the one gear started bouncing off the crankshaft. I stopped the engine immediately, pulled the engine back out, removed the gears, reinstalled the engine and ran it. But I did CALL and talk to an engineer at Kohler and asked about running an engine with the gears with them removed. I asked about what was different between an engine with & without gears and He really didn't give Me much of an answer. He couldn't tell Me anything that was really different so I figured I was safe. I know the engine was still running fine 15 yrs later after a LOT of lawn mowing.

Question was asked a while ago about what the added vibrating would hurt in a Kohler. I think the answer is "Not Much!" That K301 in a 129 was missing four or five of the twelve blower vanes on the flywheel when I got the tractor. I must have ran it close to a year before Dad found Me a new flywheel & blower housing, hard telling how long the PO ran it. It vibrated the threads out of the alum. oil pan, had to Heli-coil them, the four bolt holes attaching the steer console to the frame fatigued and cracked, had Dad braze some reinforcments on that, But the bearings and everything else with the engine & hydro was fine. In fact, the same flywheel, bearing & bearing plate are in My K321 in the 72. When that engine runs the LAST thing I worry about are the ball bearing mains!
 
I got a call back from the tech service Kohler uses to answer tech questions. He said he even called the factory and asked about a bulletin and they couldn't find anything.

Okay, after saying that... he also said he'd never heard of balance gear failure and them grenading and making a window in a block. I told him I could have several guys email him photos of the results of the bearing failing and sending the gears into the atmosphere. He was shocked. He didn't know why anyone wouldn't put them in. He had heard of some guys not installing them during a rebuild but thought it was just because they didn't know how to put them back in correctly.

Anyway, that's what I got as an answer to the question. Hope that helps...
 
Kieth,

I am with many people on the forum and would remove the gears if "I" did a rebuild. That being said I have a friend who has been rebuilding Kohlers for many years and puts them back in every engine unless his customer insists on leaving them out. He has learned little tricks and has never had the gears come out. He is in his 60's and has been rebuilding engine for 30+ years. He has explained his procedure to me a couple times but I don't think I could remember it all. It is very involved but does end up with less vibration in the engines so he feels it is worth it. So I think your Kohler Tech is partially correct. Many of us leave them out because we don't know how to install them correctly.

John
 
Don't know how many of our advertisers everyone has checked out, but, KIRK ENGINES can add a counterbalance to your crank shaft so it runs smoother without grenade gears. Check it out, but it does cost a few $.
 
John Underwood,
So might the pictures of ruined blocks from balancing gears be the result of improper installation? Or are there plenty of factory installations that have done the same? I know that when I tore down a K301 with them, they were very loose horizontally. But most of the rest of the engine was also shot.
 
Well, so much for this one....maybe we should snip the last few entries and have Charlie (where the &*&%^ is <u>he</u> ??? ) post 'em to Cubfaqs..

My 129 shakes like grandma's old rocker at idle. If I ever rebuild the 129, I'll put the gears back in, with new bearings..I'll also continue to change oil frequently, keep the fins cleaned and make sure the head bolts are torqued properly, along with the other preventive maintenance items recommended by Kohler. Want to discuss motor oil???
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