• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through September 28, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jwalker

Active member
Joined
Sep 5, 2006
Messages
35
displayname
Joe Walker
Bob and Kraig, thanks for the input. The cylinder looks good but the crank journal has some scoring. The piston has some really bad scoring at the top above the last ring, worst case I'm looking at a entire reciprocating Assembly. Anybody you all could recommend?
Thanks again, Joe
 
Charlie & Nick: Cermalube sure sounds good but!!!!!!
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Charlie, sounds like a good product to have as a door prize at PD12.
happy.gif
 
Hi,Guys. First time posting. I was working on my dads 682 with a magnum 18 in it. Anybody ever have the magnets from the inside of the flywheel come off,and if so have you had any luck with gluing them back in? thanks for any help you all may have. Mike
 
Hi -
I've been using ceramalube paste as a automotive disc brake boundary lube for some time, its great, good to 2600 degrees or something. Other Ceramic products should be good too. Schaeffer makes an oil in 30 weight with some moly in it called Moly Bond, its solids lubricate engines like the K series exceptionally well.

The belt that wont quit. - this spring I was cleaning up a 44" deck for the seasons work and noticed the belt was cracked all the way to the 4 or 5 main cords. The spare belt was not the right one, so I thought the failing one might last thru the first mowing. Being senile, I forgot about it and its still working after all season. Should I try for next year too?
 
Also,
Kraigs Video/CD/DVD Plow Days page has made the move too!
CLICK HERE

Kraig offers his services for FREE and makes nothing on these, so buy big and buy often!
bouncy.gif


And a BIG THANKS to Bryan for remaking the new page for the forum. And he dint complain a bit! What a guy!
 
Ever get the feeling you were being watched?
lol.gif
 
Kraig McC, Dennis F and Bobby B:
Thanks again for your imput on my problem with my 129!

Well, it turns out that it was the driveshaft - IT BROKE IN TWO - right at the engine coupling roll pin. So, it's out and a new shaft and coupling have been ordered. Seems weird to me that the shaft would break before the rag joint would give out, but hey, what do I know????

Say, while I'm back here I should ask: What is everyone's opinion on those front PTO clutch buttons made from brass,, rather than the OE fiber button?

RWilke
happy.gif
 
I'm thinking about setting up a wheel weights ID page on cubfaq.com.
Soooo, I'm looking for pics of wheel weights that fits 8" or 12" garden tractor wheels.
I know there's a couple variations of IH Cub Cadet weights as well as some variations of the front farmall weights.
But any one that has a good pic of ANY KIND of weights, and you know for sure what they are, feel free to post them here or email them direct to me.
THANKS
thumbsup.gif
 
Oh yea, I almost forgot.
I had a guy from Georgia that watches the forum, email me saying that there was no such thing as Cerma Lube.
41389.jpg
 
Ryan W.

Several years ago, my 129's drive shaft broke at the drive pin hole also. As far as I can remember, that once was the only time the shaft broke for this tractor. My dad had it from new until 1988 or so, then I got it.
 
I have my first Hydrostatic drive.
What is the recomended fluid if I was to change it? It is a model 107
 
<font color="ff0000"><font face="courier new,courier"></font>
Can I(if at all)bore out a kohler K301/321 into a K341 and make my 149 a 169???</font>
 
BTW, I'm headin for the Madison,Wi. area tomorrow to pick up a mini Cub herd, so if anyone needs anything picked up along I-90, give me a shout before 9 in the morning.
biggrin.gif
 
Joe Walker,

Where are you located?
I do rebuilds on the East Coast.

Kenny
 
CHARLIE - Stay the heck outta My Shed....
shame.gif
It's so cram-packed full of JUNK it's considered a hazardous work zone. I have to climb over or under My pickup and Farmall's to get from one side to the other...
You raiding the "Used & Abused" lot on the north side of town again? I thought there wasn't much there when I was over buying FARMALL parts 3 weeks ago.
 
Jerry H,
Thanks for the incouragement that the new shaft will last for a while...! ;)

I think I may have also determined the cause of the breakage; it seems that I only had ONE (rear) engine mounting bolt still holding the engine in place. It seems that the two front bolts either came out sometime or were removed & not replaced in the past and one of the rear bolts is broken off flush with the frame. So, while I'm waiting for my new driveshaft & coupling to arrive, I'll pull the engine and try to remove the broken mounting bolt from the bottom of the engine and replace the front bolts. I would guess that if the engine was moving around a bit, that would put a bind in the shaft, likely causing it to eventually break........ Does that make sense to all the "Cub Experts" out there?

RW
happy.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top