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Archive through September 19, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Ok...I see what ya mean now
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Best thing to do is look through the archives for pictures of ones that have been restored already then take notes of what ya see. Don't think there is a list of what parts get painted what color. Is there something in particular you are looking for ?
 
So I have been looking for wheel weights for my cub and have found some!! I was wondering about how much they are actually worth and what I can expect to pay for them based on condition. I found some for $100 and others for $65 although the cheaper ones are about an hour away. What to do?? Any suggestions?
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I've been out working on my CCO this morning, putting on some fenders I bought. The bracket has the usual crack, which I'll fix when I get around to refinishing the whole machine. Why do those crack? Is it fatigue, or someone stepping on the right fender? I'm afraid if I weld it and clean it up, it will just crack again. I guess I could add a stiffener underneath where it's not noticeable. Just wondering what others have done. I was also wondering what people run for front tires. Is there anything close to the originals available? Right now, I have tri-ribs, but t'aint original.
 
Scott,
Lets see... 80 miles 20 mpg $4 a gallon will cost you $16 for gas, YMMV. Add to it wear and tear on the car, and the value of your time and it probably works out to a wash at best financially. OTOH, perhaps you have another excuse to drive out that way, or you don't feel like rewarding someone selling overpriced wheel weights.
 
I found some wheel weights about 5 minutes from here. I paid $75 for the pair, made the wife mad, and now have them on the 106! I figured that wasnt too bad but would have rather gotten away with spending less, would have still made the wife mad but I feel its worth it!! Not too many places around here have any old cubs and there are no salvage yards for tractors locally that I know of.
 
I've been using the ACE brand grey primer under the Ace brand School bus yellow paint. It looks good, just hope it holds up good.

Cubs that I painted with the Cub Cadet brand of paint have faded in a year or two.

There is another tractor company that sells spray paint that goes on better and covers better than any I have seen, but that color wouldn't go good on a Cub Cadet.
 
Well, I'm done working on the engine for the day. I mounted it on the stand, did some minor porting/polishing, and some relief work around the valves. I then decided to chase the threads for the cylinder head bolts, and promptly snapped off a tap. One jagged piece stuck above the surface, which promptly broke off. Looks like I'm going to have to get a diamond burr for my Dremel and try to drill it out. Not looking forward to it.

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There is such a thing as a broken tap extractor. I Know snap-on sells them. Ive used one before and it sure is easyer then drilling or grinding. I would try to find one if it was me. It has fingers that go down beside the tap flutes and doesnt damage the threads
 
I've Googled for tap extraction, and seen dozens of methods, from trying to weld a nut onto the stub (which might have worked if I had done it first) to using acid to dissolve it. Those tools are expensive, and are prone to breakage themselves, so I'm kind of thinking the slower safer method might be better. I also think there may be a Heli-coil already in that hole. Shoulda left well enough alone, but its too late now.
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Another question:

Where do I drain and fill the fluid for the hydro on this 149?

Also where does one find hytran?

I have searched and searched and come up empty handed.
 
Tony D,

HyTran is available at your nearest Case/IH dealer. You can also get the rear cover plate gasket there as well or from one our fine sponsors in the colorful boxes at the top of the page.
 
why didn't cub put in a drain plug for hydros?
The gear drives have plugs...
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Chris:
This was during the same era that the car companies were omitting grease zerks...be glad it wasn't the fill plug they omitted.
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Matt G
It is my understanding that Hy-Tran has 10 weight oil as a base.
 
Steve,

Say it ain't so, say it ain't so!
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j/k
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Thanks for the update, this is actually a good deal. I need to remove my clutch and do some more work on it. I'm still getting some slippage when letting out the clutch in 3rd gear. The clutch plates are going to need to be turned in the lathe. Maybe the larger clutch spring or spacer would help the issue.
 
I've complained to myself about the lack of the drain plug on the hydros, but always feel good when I have cleaned up the inside and know when I put the new fluid in, there isn't going to be any junk in the rear end. Especially when you don't know when the PO changed fluids, or if he did.
 
Larry Stith: Regarding who to have rechrome your hub caps>
D&D Classic Bright Works, 1311B South St., Piqua, OH., 45356. (937) 773-5127. Fax (937) 773-2112

They do AWESOME work on ultra rare and expensive cars...Duesnberg, Cord, Bently, Stutz Blackhawk, etc. I had them re-do the hood ornament for my 122. It had 'pock marks' etc, on it...not anymore! They dunked the part to remove the old chrome, ground out the contaminated metal, filled the low spots with lead, filed the lead down to make a smooth surface again, then re-chromed the part, and buffed it out.

I had taken the hood ornament to 3 other chroming places and they wouldn't/couldn't re-chrome it because it is 'pot metal'. The guy at D&D said 'Sure, we can fix it up for you!'

It is absolutely perfect now!!
 
Tony, Chris, & Richard,
I've always just unscrewed the hydro tube at the front of the trans to drain the hytran out.... no problem...

For the broken tap issue, if all else fails, take it to a machine shop with an EDM machine, and have it burned out... good to go...
 

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