Archive through September 13, 2011

[gcoleman]

Ray, like the photo! I also am extremely envious of your lawn...we wont talk about mine, its green...but thats about it. I also like the wide tires on your 70/100

<font size="-2">Charlie, sent you an email about a tire question, check your spam filter if you didnt already get it. Thank you

</font>

 

[mpatterson]

Ray, I am with Glen, Thumbs Up for the wide tires! Love to see more pictures or that video. Did you have to hire those people to work on the lawn with you? Do you have their numbers, I can't seem to find help around home. Once I mention the "W" word.......I can suddenly hear myself breathe since its so quiet and EVERYONE has scattered!

 

[aschumacher]

Mike, I think they are known as 'day labor' or 'work for your supper' people. From a post on the 8th, those are his teen sons on tractor duty. Got a daughter? Maybe she can get their numbers !

..<font size="-2">(Just kidding)</font>
EDIT: you might have a problem sneaking them into Canada!

 

[mpatterson]

I have a 20 yo daughter Allen, perhaps I will ask her if she will help me with THAT? Since she and her brother won't help with the day labour issue! lol

 

[astrawderman]

Hey guys, is there more than one way to put transmission fluid in a gear drive cub cadet? Also how do you tell if the rear end is aluminum or cast iron?
Thanks

 

[mgonitzke]

Andrew-

There's nearly always more than one way to do something

Aluminum rear: Always black, 5 bolts holding the drawbar on, magnet won't stick to the case, wheel studs instead of lug bolts.

CI rear: 3 bolts holding the drawbar on, lug bolts holding on the wheels, magnet will stick, etc.

 

[nbartee]

John S.,

Yes, I measured the shaft again on my KT17 and it's closer to 2 55/64" measuring from the front of the closure plate to shaft end.

 

[astrawderman]

Matt
Besides filling up the transmission through the 1/2 inch plug what other ways are there?

 

[mgonitzke]

Well, you can remove the shifter and do it through that opening if you don't have a NF.

 

[sblunier]

Andrew,

I have found that the easiest way to fill the cast iron rear end is with a funnel with a long, but small diameter flexible spout. Make sure you leave an air gap at the top of the 1/2 hole in the rear plate to avoid messy bubbling over. Fill it slowly (about 1 quart at a time) and check often with your little finger. When the oil level is within 1/4" of the bottom of the hole, you are good to go.

I bought the funnel I use at Wal-Mart 10 years ago, but they may still have them in the automotive section. It has a blue plastic "funnel" that holds about a quart with a twist style shut-off at the base and a +/-18" clear vinyl tube that ends up in a 3/8" hard plastic end with cap. Works great and offers great control.

Good luck.

 

[mpatterson]

That's what I used Andrew, a tin funnel with a flexible spout that was about 12" - 16" long. Worked great. Make sure you pack a 5 gallon pail or something to sit on. It is a SLOW process. I think some of the rear ends like Matt has on his (think it was an aluminum one??) Isn't there a four or 6 bolt flat plate on the top that you can un-bolt and dump oil in that way if you have the tractor pretty much torn down??

 

[ksanders]

I've always used a normal funnel (the more it holds the better) and heated the end of a hose and slipped over the end of the funnel when it was hot. Then I can put the hose in the fill hole and tie the funnel up-right, fill it with oil, and go about my work. Like everyone is saying, very slow process still.

 

[mgonitzke]

The CI rear hydros can be filled in about 15 seconds if the cover plate on top is removed. It is faster to remove the fenders and clean that area than it is to fill through the hole in the rear cover.

 

[mpatterson]

Man, why didn't I do that instead of messing with that little hole in the back plate!

 

[dfrisk]

Well, At least IH was nice enough to include a dipstick & fill tube on the rearend of the early 982's for filling the hydro rearends. Simply remove the little cover over the hole for the manual 3-speed gear shift lever and it's right there. Still need a small funnel with a long flexible tube attached however.
The rear cover on the IH rearends on SGT's is normally covered with 3-pt rockshafts, anti-sway bars for the lower lift arms, rear PTO belts, clutches and pulleys. Takes about an HOUR of disassembly just to get to the rearend cover. The fenders don't have to come off but it helps.

On my NF GD's I find it helps to raise the rear of the tractor if adding oil to an emptied rearend. I suspect it'd help on a hydro & WF also. I'm always a little hesitant to remove covers on sealed and filtered oil containing components because it's too easy to get added dirt into the component.

Just be thankful we use Hy-Tran or 30W engine oil in the rearends of CC's, on a cool day it would take HOURS to get seven pints or seven quarts of 85W-140 gear oil into the rearend.

 

[nbextermueller]

I have always filled my cubbies with what is best described as a large syringe. It is about the size of a grease gun with a 3/4" x 12" long rubber hose on the end.
You stick the hose in the oil, pull the handle up (sucking up about a quart of oil), then put hose in the hole your filling and push the handle back in. Easy... I used for anything that gets oil but is hard to fill, ex: transfer cases under a 4WD.

I bought it at AutoZone about 10yrs ago. I bet it was less than $10. Here's pic I stole from the internet of what it looks like.

 

[astrawderman]

Thanks for all the advice

 

[astrawderman]

Hey guys, I just found a Haban model 405 sickle bar mower for sale in my area. Would this fit a wide frame cub cadet or a narrow frame cub cadet?

 

[mgwin]

Andrew,
405-_? (A,D,E)

 

[astrawderman]

Its a 405E sickle bar