Archive through September 12, 2012

[kide]

Kraig/Amy That appears to be the shear pin driver that's still on there . If you can't get the axle stub out, I'd see if that driver was welded to the shaft with a bead that can be cut loose with a cutoff wheel in a die grinder. Clean up the shaft and slide the bearing off? I don't know how the stub is inserted into the auger on those...

If all that there was inside was balls, then you've actually got one piece flanged bearings and you've cut the races apart.. It's been too long since I've worked on one and then it was a QA36 and a QA42A...

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - Back when I was gathering parts for my K321, the MWSC stroke crank was $325. But then you needed a custom rod or piston. Now they're up to $525! ;-O

The long rod engine design does make a HUGE improvement in engine performance. The longer rod parks the piston at TDC longer while the crankshaft is going "Over the top" in it's rotation. This compresses the mixture, the spark ignites it and cylinder pressure goes WAY up compared to the normal length rod engine design. A rod length of two times the stroke length is considered a "Long Rod". A SBC has a rod length of only 5.7 inches (except the 400 SBC), so a 350 w/3.48" stoke has a ratio of only 1.638. LOT of room for improvement there! For comparison, the Farmall M had a TEN inch long rod, and 5-1/4" stroke, 1.905 ratio, FARMALL H had an eight inch rod, & 4-1/4 inch stroke, 1.882 ratio. The longer rod reduces the tendency of the piston to rock in the cylinder, puts less side load on the piston & cylinder walls, so reduces wear, heat build-up, makes things last longer.

For comparison, the K301, 321, & 341 Kohlers all have 5.3" long rods & 3-1/4" stroke, so a 1.607 ratio, the K241 has a 5.563 inch long rod according to my MWSC catalog chart, 2-7/8" stroke, so a 1.935 ratio. Maybe that's why my old K241 in the 72 ran so well and so long!

The long rod really bumps up low & mid-range torque, and other than an increase in reciprocating weight, really doesn't have a down side. Most things dealing with engines give some benefit to the detriment of other performance factors.

 

[akleyla]

Gerry,that piece is welded on the shaft. That is what the large chain sprocket goes next too. It has a pin that goes through the hole to lock it in place along with a set screw.

 

[kostendorf]

I finally figured out how to resize pictures to post here. now I can see what i'm talking about.

 

[bjrainey]

I know that this was discussed a few years ago, but I can't seem to find it in the archives...
I just got a 129 back and the PO had really messed up the electrical system.
I replaced the cut up and fried wiring harness with one out of a donor 149.
I also bought a new battery and voltage regulator. I connected all the wires according to what the wiring diagram shows, but still am perplexed. The new VR is marked F, bat and nothing on the 3 tab side. The one tab on the other side is for a ground.
But my question is are these tabs wired in the same position on a new VR as on the older ones?
I hooked it up and discharged the battery with out ever starting it.

 

[mgonitzke]

Brad-

Are you sure the other tabs aren't labeled, and are you sure the one on the back is really a ground? On most aftermarket voltage regulators, the tab on the back is not a ground. If you see a strap going from the case of the regulator to a mounting tab, then that terminal is definitely not a ground.

 

[aschumacher]

Brad, maybe someone has the regulator pin-out on their 'puter and post it. Meanwhile did you do a 'search'? over a 150 hits!
Just in case... go to the yellow bar up top and click 'search'
key in 'voltage regulator'
change KeyWord to 'and'
change Match to 'wholeword'
then hit search button.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Keith O. Very sweet outfit!!!

Lewis P. The guy I sold my #2 cart to was going to put between $4-600 in sanding and paint alone to restore the cart and it wasn't in that bad of condition either. I'd love to have a cart like yours though.

 

[bjrainey]

Aaron,
I don't know what I'm doing wrong but tried the search with your info and got 9 results with alot of those from the classifieds.

Matt,
That is the case, The single tab which I thought to be a ground, is attached to another tab on the other side.
The wiring diagram shows that single side tab as going to the Negative post of the battery. and also the tab it is connected to with braided copper wire on the other side is the F tab, the middle one is marked BAT and the one on the otherside is marked L. Couldn't see the L real good before.

 

[jchamberlin]

Allen: Thanks for the tip on "searching" this forum.