Archive through September 12, 2012

[wcompton]

Gerry-
I planned on doing just that. My number's won't come out like a standard engine. If you check out my post from Saturday, December 15, 2007 - 06:39 pm, I'm using a rod that's a LITTLE bigger than normal.

 

[akleyla]

Yes ty,thats the bearing I was referring too. I called cub cadet yesterday an they were wanting to sell me the whole hub . I was hoping we could just change the bearing

As soon as we change those we can put it back together an touch up the paint. Of course we painted it first then found out one of the bearings were bad..LOL

 

[kmcconaughey]

Amy, all you should need would be the bearing with the eccentric locking collar and perhaps the two mounting flanges. The bearing w/ collar and flanges should be readily available at a Fleet Farm store or other similar farm supply store. Some of the forum sponsors also have them. Note the colorful boxes at the top of the page, if you click on them they will take you to the sponsor website. You may already know this this but I'll mention it anyway. The bearing is held onto the auger axle with one setscrew and an eccentric locking collar. Once you have the setscrew out the collar will only turn one way and there should be a shallow hole in the collar that is used to drive it (rotate) to loosen it.

 

[akleyla]

Ok,I seen the set screw on the inside,but the 3 bolts that hold the hub in place need to come off too right ? Also will I need to remove the whole Auger,or just undo the bearings ? Im thinking ill have to remove the whole Auger...?

 

[digger]

Amy K.
You don't have to remove the auger to replace the bearings.
You can remove one side and slide the auger side to side to replace them both.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Amy, the bearing is sandwiched between the two bearing flanges which are held together and to the auger housing with those three carriage bolts, so yes, the three bolts need to come out. It might help you if you can see the separate bearing and flange parts, so here's a link to a photo of the bearing, locking collar and the two bearing flanges that are available from CC Specialties.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, it's too soon for ice on the bird bath.

 

[dtanner]

Charlie "Digger" Proctor


That is to bad for you to have frost and freezing up already.Today it is 73 deg F in the shade here and we have not got any frost yet. But the I`am not as far north as you , I`am happy about that

 

[akleyla]

Ok ty guys for the info. I guess I better get off here an go take it apart,unless one of you wanna do it ?I dont wanna break a nail...LOL

And Brrrr....im not ready for the cold,but they are talking 40 next week in the am

 

[rchristensen]

With all this talk about static timing kohlers and using a PSM-6 I just had to tell my story. Maybe the toy 682 in the picture will keep me from getting chewed out.

As a young Airman here at Williams AFB in the early 60's we used the PSM-6 at the Radar and all the Nav Aid sites. The meter was so rugged you could just put the leads in the case cover, attach the cover to the meter and many times they were just thrown in the back of a pickup and taken to the next site.

I moved back to this area in the early 90's with the FAA and one day I stopped by a yard sale and saw a PSM-6 sitting on a table with a $2.00 sign on it. I pulled out the money as fast as I could and purchased it. As I was walking back to my car a Farmer came up to me and said (can you tell me what that is? I found it in my field about 30 years ago and had no idea what it was, but I did take the batteries out of it). It may have been one of the meters I used as a young Airman. Probably one of my best yard sale purchases.

 

[mconway]

well my son just bought a house and he wanted a tractor for lawn/driveway. he couldn't find a cc worth buying so he bought a case/ingersol 226 with a 48 in deck and a blower. now i hafta get another set of manuals and learn about the red tractors......

 

[kide]

OK Wyatt, I gotta ask.. If that was a stroker, it'd use a shorter rod or a piston with a wrist pin higher in the body and the up and down distance would be longer. Now You've got a longer rod, and I assume special piston, but don't say anything about it being a stroker. If not, the piston still goes up and down the same distance, right? If it is a stroker, with a longer rod, the wrist pin must really be high... You gotta forgive me, but sitting here with a bag of frozen corn against my back gives me wayyyyy too much time to think. (going to the doc this afternoon - that'll give you guys a break).

 

[akleyla]

By Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Thursday, September 13, 2012 - 09:49 am:
Amy, the bearing is sandwiched between the two bearing flanges which are held together and to the auger housing with those three carriage bolts, so yes, the three bolts need to come out. It might help you if you can see the separate bearing and flange parts, so here's a link to a photo of the bearing, locking collar and the two bearing flanges that are available from CC Specialties.

Ok,so I had to end up removing the auger,this picture you showed me of the bearing apart is similar but it has 3 pins in the flanges ? I tried to use a chisel an hammer to separate the flanges an its not budging?Also on the drive end where the large sprocket is mounted,there is a metal piece welded to the shaft...how do I get the hub bearing off with that welded on ? Do I pull the bolts out on the auger an remove the shaft?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Amy, Perhaps the bearing and flanges were replaced at some point with a set that was riveted together.

The flanges should come apart once you have the three bolts out. Probably easiest to just replace the flanges as well. The new ones would be nice shiny galvanized anyway.

I'm not sure what metal piece you are referring to that would be welded to the shaft, unless you are referring to the driven sprocket. Any chance you could post a photo? I do know that the bearing is inboard of the sprocket so you may have to remove the axle shaft from the driven end of the auger to get the old bearing off.

 

[wcompton]

Gerry-
It's standard stroke, with a low compression height piston.

 

[dfrisk]

WYATT - Gerry must not have checked prices on a stroker crankshaft for a Kohler! If you could run more than a Quarter-inch stroker crank without having to "MOVE the Camshaft" it would be worth it!

I thought a 4 inch stroke X 3-1/2 inch bore engine would have made a great working tractor engine!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here are some photos from Amy of the CW-36 Snow Thrower bearing flanges that are fastened together and the sprocket end. Anyone know for sure how to remove the bearing from the sprocket end? I would think she will have to remove the axle stub from the auger and then slide the bearing off.

I didn't realize the CW-36 was that different from the QA36/QA42?QA36A/QA42A series.

 

[kide]

Wyatt - Is the piston below the deck at TDC? You were planning on running a bottle on the Wheatland? For Faster Furrows? I haven't checked on a Kohler stroker, but I know a big inch crank kit for the late model (OMC built) OHV Cushmans is over 2 grand.. (BTW - they pull over 30 HP out of some of those 8 horse Cushmans - running on alchohol)

I was just trying to figure why the piston depth at 20 degrees BTDC would be different with a long rod, if the piston wrist pin was relocated to compensate. I know that was a trick used on some older SBCs as the rod angle is less with the long rod and had benefits..

 

[hydroharry]

Frank C - almost on the wrong side of the border. How bout posting a pic of the 123 and those head bolts. I was thinking where the gas tank mounts, the head used studs and double nuts?

Kraig and Amy - this is a good one. Surprised it never came up before. I thought the same as Kraig. Now, on the side where you have removed the flange and bearings it looks like you can drill out the 3 rivets and the flanges will come apart. Whether these flanges are the same as used on the other throwers, and whether the bearing is the same is the next question.
As for the side where the flange and bearing is inside that welded piece, I would think there is no choice but to remove the shaft from the auger. Question is - how do you do that? (I don't have my TC-137 parts manual here at work so I can't see a parts explosion).

Mike P - strange they put the grease zerk on the inside of the wheel. Not very accessible and not many would know it. Also, it only greases the inside bearing. What do you do about the outside one?

 

[akleyla]

Ok,I drilled out the 3 rivets and the flanges come apart. All thats inside is 2 rubber pieces an balls. I cant believe there was never a way to grease these bearings ?

Harry,good question. How do I take the shaft out of the auger ? Its that or ill have to have that bracket removed an re-welded.

I dont know if I should just get the new flanges an new balls an put it back like it was before or get a new set ?Suggestions ?