lpalma
Well-known member
Ouch bitten by the bug...
Harry,
pictures for your curiosity...
Harry,
pictures for your curiosity...
-
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Archive through September 12, 2012
- Thread starter lpalma
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Lewis Palma
Real Nice Trailer you have there , I thought looking at the other picture that the wheels had been painted .
Harry that is the trailer Charlie got with the skid steer at another yard sale . Some guys got all the luck.
Real Nice Trailer you have there , I thought looking at the other picture that the wheels had been painted .
Harry that is the trailer Charlie got with the skid steer at another yard sale . Some guys got all the luck.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Lewis P - can you post a pic from your brochure? IH did have a good air brush studio so what you see isn't always what you get. Also, those little plastic hubcaps can be a real pain. I never had them on a cart, but on the lawn tractors they would pop off and were a pain to get snapped on.
Gerry Ide Kide - I don't think that is the Spec No. for the 16hp K341AQS used in a Cub Cadet. I suspect that Spec number is for some type of special application. I'll see if I can get the Spec number from my son's 1650.
Gerry Ide Kide - I don't think that is the Spec No. for the 16hp K341AQS used in a Cub Cadet. I suspect that Spec number is for some type of special application. I'll see if I can get the Spec number from my son's 1650.
lpalma
Well-known member
Harry,
I could scan it,but I am not sure how to post it,but the keeper of the photos may have a picture of one.
Kirk,
Anything is possible.
I have seen a few others at shows with the terra tires on them.Also seen them with the 6 rib tires also.
I could scan it,but I am not sure how to post it,but the keeper of the photos may have a picture of one.
Kirk,
Anything is possible.
I have seen a few others at shows with the terra tires on them.Also seen them with the 6 rib tires also.
HydroHarry,
That's my parking lot.
That's my parking lot.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Harry-
A multimeter is used to determine when the points open. No guesswork.
A multimeter is used to determine when the points open. No guesswork.
kide
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- 3,779
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- Gerry Ide
Wyatt: Google "degree wheel" .. tons of files ready to print and then paste to a piece of aluminum. This is the one I used in making a wheel for use with the Cushman engines..
If you have the head off when you are mapping, see if you can measure from the block deck to the top of the piston when it's set at 20 degrees BTDC.
If you have the head off when you are mapping, see if you can measure from the block deck to the top of the piston when it's set at 20 degrees BTDC.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Matt G - don't get me wrong now, static timing is the only method to use when you have a non-running engine. The part that bothers me is you rotate the engine by hand until the points "just" break. Is that the point when the multimeter begins to fluctuate between infinity and zero, or when it's definitely zero? And if it's zero how do you know it's exactly at the point of when the points just break? All these manual adjustments leave a very slight margin for the timing to be off, just a few degrees. You don't encounter these when using a timing light on a running engine.
Lewis P - now that pic of the underside is great. You can see the original galvanized bolts and the paint on the rims does look the same as the cart. That's a great No. 4 IH Cart. Is that a grease zerk I see on the bearing area of the rim?
Gerry Ide Kide - now, I did some checking. The 16hp used in a 1650 is a model K341AQS. The letter A in the suffix indicates a Special Oil Pan, which is required for all IH Cub Cadets with single cylinder Kohler K engines, except the Original and I'm not sure about other 7hp or 8hp units. The Spec No. for a K341AQS used in a Model 1650 is 71167a so the engine you pointed out, Model K341QS must be a special application not used in a Cub Cadet, and don't know what it would be used for. Certainly is unusual tho.
Lewis P - now that pic of the underside is great. You can see the original galvanized bolts and the paint on the rims does look the same as the cart. That's a great No. 4 IH Cart. Is that a grease zerk I see on the bearing area of the rim?
Gerry Ide Kide - now, I did some checking. The 16hp used in a 1650 is a model K341AQS. The letter A in the suffix indicates a Special Oil Pan, which is required for all IH Cub Cadets with single cylinder Kohler K engines, except the Original and I'm not sure about other 7hp or 8hp units. The Spec No. for a K341AQS used in a Model 1650 is 71167a so the engine you pointed out, Model K341QS must be a special application not used in a Cub Cadet, and don't know what it would be used for. Certainly is unusual tho.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Bill Rhodes: I'm on-line today; wasn't yesterday. (Geesh, miss one day and people start asking questions, am I at work?)
Harry, Matt, Gerry: Good discussion on timing method. I agree with Harry that some skill is needed to interpret 12 volt lamp or multimeter readings in order to get the timing just right; I agree with Matt that it is a whole lot easier to set the timing statically than dynamically, and cheaper too, because you don't need the timing light. Dynamic setting gives you the confidence that the engine is seeing what you thought you saw at the static stage. What intrigues me about Gerry's and Wyatt's input is that either method can be literally "wide of the mark" if the factory didn't scribe the flywheel correctly.
Although everyone attests that the Kohler engine will tolerate a wide range of timing variations, it would be nice to know (and "know that you know") that what you think is 20 deg before TDC is truly 20 deg before TDC, especially when you're re-building the engine and have laid out the money for new parts.
Harry, Matt, Gerry: Good discussion on timing method. I agree with Harry that some skill is needed to interpret 12 volt lamp or multimeter readings in order to get the timing just right; I agree with Matt that it is a whole lot easier to set the timing statically than dynamically, and cheaper too, because you don't need the timing light. Dynamic setting gives you the confidence that the engine is seeing what you thought you saw at the static stage. What intrigues me about Gerry's and Wyatt's input is that either method can be literally "wide of the mark" if the factory didn't scribe the flywheel correctly.
Although everyone attests that the Kohler engine will tolerate a wide range of timing variations, it would be nice to know (and "know that you know") that what you think is 20 deg before TDC is truly 20 deg before TDC, especially when you're re-building the engine and have laid out the money for new parts.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Harry,
Yep! Don't you like the idea you can actually grease something! My #4 has them and they are excellent. Been hauling rock with it for the past couple weeks and a couple shots of grease take away that squeekiness. I like it. Heck, even my custom built trailer for my atv doesn't have them, I have to remove the hubs and roll the bearings in greast on it.
Hind sight, 20/20. DUH! Never thought of that years ago when making it.
Great find Lew!
Yep! Don't you like the idea you can actually grease something! My #4 has them and they are excellent. Been hauling rock with it for the past couple weeks and a couple shots of grease take away that squeekiness. I like it. Heck, even my custom built trailer for my atv doesn't have them, I have to remove the hubs and roll the bearings in greast on it.
Hind sight, 20/20. DUH! Never thought of that years ago when making it.
Great find Lew!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Harry-
It's when the points just begin to break, so that's when the resistance changes from from zero to infinity. If you turn the flywheel slowly you'll get it pretty accurate.
This stuff is all in the Kohler manual, by the way
It's when the points just begin to break, so that's when the resistance changes from from zero to infinity. If you turn the flywheel slowly you'll get it pretty accurate.
This stuff is all in the Kohler manual, by the way
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Lewis:
On the 123 blown head gasket: No on the new bolts. Last May I cleaned the bolts, chased the bolt holes and studs, torqued everything by the book, warmed it up, let it cool, retorqued everything. This was after installing a new gasket and a head that I'd flattened using the wet/dry sandpaper and glass method.
This time, John was in a hurry, so we slapped a new head gasket on, torqued it to 40# and away they went. He just needs a couple more mowings this year!
I hate the gas tank mounting system on the 123. It would take an open-end torque wrench to do the rear 3 bolts that hold the mounting bracket. Maybe that's where a low boss head and studs should be used?
Anyway, this is John's 4th season with Rhoda and he's shown no disappointment.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Harry:
Yup, you are correct ...out of the 169 manual.. last column to the right is the 169.:
One of the things that should be remembered is these timing specs are an engineer's conclusion of best setting based on fuel, load, engine condition and a dozen other attributes. These engines are by no means fragile and will tolerate a pretty wide range of settings in timing and carburetor before complaining. Its always smart to set to the manufacturers specs, but I always chuckle when the I see somebody worried about a degree of timing on a points and coil L head motor (conversely a degree of difference on a flywheel/breaker points ignition like a Briggs has can make or break (sorry for the pun) a good spark because of the multiple timing issues - the magnet has to pass the pole piece of the coil at the correct time in relation to when the points open)..
Gotta go find a fresh bag of frozen corn .... back is whacked good this time..
Yup, you are correct ...out of the 169 manual.. last column to the right is the 169.:
One of the things that should be remembered is these timing specs are an engineer's conclusion of best setting based on fuel, load, engine condition and a dozen other attributes. These engines are by no means fragile and will tolerate a pretty wide range of settings in timing and carburetor before complaining. Its always smart to set to the manufacturers specs, but I always chuckle when the I see somebody worried about a degree of timing on a points and coil L head motor (conversely a degree of difference on a flywheel/breaker points ignition like a Briggs has can make or break (sorry for the pun) a good spark because of the multiple timing issues - the magnet has to pass the pole piece of the coil at the correct time in relation to when the points open)..
Gotta go find a fresh bag of frozen corn .... back is whacked good this time..
Just in case anyone is hot where you are today, your more than welcome to come share my ICE!
And yes there's frost on the Cubs I brought home yesterday!
And yes there's frost on the Cubs I brought home yesterday!
akleyla
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- Amy J. Kleyla
Hello everyone,this is my first forum post here. I am starting to restore my grandpas 1969 cub cadet IH 104. Ive started with the CW-36 snow thrower. I found that one of the hub bearings are bad...does anyone know if you have to change the whole hub or can you just change the bearings ?
Amy, WELCOME!
I assume you are referring to the auger axle bearing(s). If so, you should be able to change out just the bearing(s) and be good to go.
