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Archive through September 09, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Good morning, All. I'm taking a full weekend off from work. It will be almost total Cub Cadet time. This afternoon, I'll be rescuing a 123 from a salvage friend. He is holding onto two off topic tractors until I get the money. I may just take the camera and get some pictures and post them in the classifieds to try and keep them from being cut up.

I like Rick B.'s poster advertising the plow day.

Frank C. Great job of rescuing another Cubbie from being cut up.

Charlie P. You can leave that little Hydro 100 here the next time you visit Dennis T.'s for another truckload of items. I know a good loving home for the little tractor.
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Everyone have a safe and wonderful day.
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J. Chamberlin, I think the info you are looking for is found under the heading of "setback and bend allowance". If you do a Google search with that heading there is a ton of info on sheet metal work.
 
Did some engine work last night, well started at least. Been having issues with my 100 spitting and spuddering and acting up once it gets warmed up (that is when it starts). Also have had BIG issues with it spitting gas out the bottom hole of the carb and NOT starting. Been suggested that one of the valves might be sticking, so decided to bit the bullet
and tear it down some to see what is up, this is what I found:
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exhaust side
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intake side
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Hmmmmm....little bit of build up??
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The block around the valve stem on the intake side is coated with black soot and crap. I guess it would make sense if it gets gummy when heated up. Although when I rotate the engine, both valves operate as they should, nothing sticking, so not sure how this could make the fuel spit out the bottom of the carb? Anyway, going to clean it up once I get a tool to remove the valves. I don't have a valve spring compressor. Anything I should know about or watch for when cleaning up the valves and installing a new head gasket? Too bad I had to pull the head, there was a new head gasket installed before I bought the tractor. No signs of blow out on the gasket, so the head is not warped or anything to cause a leak, so that is good!
 
Did anyone else wake up to temps in the 30's?
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My thermometer read 38°F this morning! Hope it wasn't because I posted that snow photo from last December... I might have to think about removing the mower and mounting up the snow thrower sooner than later.

Charlie, what temp did you have this morning?
 
Mike,

I would be inclined to check the valve clearance and valves for pitting before putting it back together. The soot could be coming from running too rich or possibly low compression? Just some things to consider.

Best of luck on it, let us know what you find, I really need to get into my K301 too.
 
KRAIG - I bet CHARLIE had a HARD FROST this AM. Meaning it froze the ground a couple inches down!

JEREMIAH, DAVID C. - SON had a class in college where they studied metal forming. The Prof. claimed he had actually written most of the info in the Machinist's Handbook on metal forming. I was buying steel stampings at my job back then, as I had at several other prior jobs, and had discussed "Spring-Back" with SON, which was the tendency of steel stampings to not bend as completely towards the ends of the part as they do in the center of the part because the steel "Springs Back" towards the edges of the part because it isn't supported by metal on either side of the bend. The Prof had NEVER heard of that term or of that problem before. He wanted to argue with SON during the lecture. SON said, "Don't Argue with me, Argue with my Dad, he buys a couple Million Dollars worth of steel stampings a year and he fights this problem daily". I had a whole family of 14 ga. 304 stampings that had a short 3/16ths inch lip formed on the edges that you could plainly see the metal "Springing back" close to 1/16th inch along a 14-15 inch edge. Right then and there I knew I wasn't getting my Money's worth from my $100,000+ investment of tuition. That prof also hadn't heard of "Friction Welding", and three doors down and across the street from our plant was a little company called, AMEICAN FRICTION WELDING, that had trucks from companies like Dana Corp, CAT, Ingersoll-Rand, Dresser, Navistar, etc. etc. etc parked at their dock Every day. I wonder what ROCK the Premier engineering school in the Nation found that tenured prof under years ago. Evidently the Prof was too interested in revising his text books by adding a comma or semicolon in his Forward so all incoming students had to buy his latest revision of HIS $150+ text book instead of buying or borrowing a used older revision text book that he hadn't kept up with current technology of the last 20-30 years.

ANYHOW... "COMMERCIAL Tolerances" require that you allow .030" tolerance on ANY dimension over a bend to allow for variations of metal thickness and temper, which effects setback, bend allowance, & spring back because of the way the thickness impacts the metal forming in the dies. Tighter tolerances normally can be held, but unless specified and agreed upon by the supplier, can not be a grounds for rejection. And possibly tooling and part design changes may be required to make the part to print repeatably. Ohhh and our print title block tolerances on angles was +/- TWO degrees IIRC.

So I wouldn't be too concerned with dimensions over bends and sheared edges being within 1/32nd of an inch.

MIKE P. - In addition to what Brian said about your carb set too rich, clean any hard carbon deposits off the valve stems, especially the exh. valve which will make the exh. valve stick open when the engine gets warm.

And once you have the head & block mating surfaces all cleaned up, set the head back on the block and slide the thinnest feeler gauge strip you have, typically .0015" thk between the head & block and press lightly on the head and try to pull the feeler gauge out. The head must hold the feeler gauge tightly or the head or block is warped, most times the head will warp, but sometimes the block can too.

Sounds like your carb could use a rebuild, disassebmle and soak it in carb cleaner for a day and blow out ALL the passages good with spray carb cleaner & compressed air, then install a new main fuel valve, float pin, and gaskets, the typical Carter carb rebuild kit. The main thing is to get ALL the fuel & air passages clean.
 
Mike P,

In addition to what Brian and Denny has said, I see you have some ridges/buildup on your valves that could prevent proper sealing. While you have the valves out I would take them and the block to a small engine shop and have the valves ground as well as the valve seats. Then lap the valves to the seats with some valve grinding compound and reinstall. Also make sure you reinstall the valve spings, rotators and retainers in the proper order.
 
Mike P:
I don 't see it mentioned too often, but as valves pound and grind their way through life, slamming into the seats, they will recess into the seats - one of the issues that non-leaded gas has made worse. One of the issues this will cause is zero clearance between the valve stem and lifter, which will prevent the valve from seating once the engine has warmed up. When you're done with the cleanup and grinding/seating the valves, be sure to check valve lash as spec'd...
 
Some must die so others may live:
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However: 1250 # 606067 may go even further North and have an 8hp Kohler implanted.
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