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Archive through September 07, 2011
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Hello Guys and thanks for all the help.Sorry I wasnt good with details in my last post. Here we go I will try my best to explain.
I filled the pump through one of the check valves until I ran out of fluid. I decided to take off the reservior cover to see what was going on inside. As tractor is running fluid seems to be circulating but slightly foamy. checked spring for charge relief and all is ok there too. I took out both check vales and checked for freedom of movement inside of vale and all seems ok there too. I took fluid from reservior and added it through check valve to see if pump needed more priming. Started tractor and still no forward or reverse. Also checked line from reservior to pump and it is full of fluid. Once again sorry for the lack of details in my previous posts.
I filled the pump through one of the check valves until I ran out of fluid. I decided to take off the reservior cover to see what was going on inside. As tractor is running fluid seems to be circulating but slightly foamy. checked spring for charge relief and all is ok there too. I took out both check vales and checked for freedom of movement inside of vale and all seems ok there too. I took fluid from reservior and added it through check valve to see if pump needed more priming. Started tractor and still no forward or reverse. Also checked line from reservior to pump and it is full of fluid. Once again sorry for the lack of details in my previous posts.
Rich Trevains
Did you fill the rear end till fluid came out the hole in the cover?
(As tractor is running fluid seems to be circulating but slightly foamy)
I think your low on hytran .After you run the tractor sum and the hydro pump is primed the fluid level will drop. I always fill ,run to prime pump and the recheck fluid level, most times its down some. I also fill the filter before I install it.later Don T
Did you fill the rear end till fluid came out the hole in the cover?
(As tractor is running fluid seems to be circulating but slightly foamy)
I think your low on hytran .After you run the tractor sum and the hydro pump is primed the fluid level will drop. I always fill ,run to prime pump and the recheck fluid level, most times its down some. I also fill the filter before I install it.later Don T
Hi Don
I checked the reservior and fluid is only about 1" from top of cover. When I primed pump I would put fluid it until it came out then would turn shaft till the level went down. I continued the process for about 15 minutes. Thanks Don
I checked the reservior and fluid is only about 1" from top of cover. When I primed pump I would put fluid it until it came out then would turn shaft till the level went down. I continued the process for about 15 minutes. Thanks Don
Oh great that's all we need now is crazed L/G gangs riding across the country terrorizing the populous.
As if we don't get enough bad publicity for hoarding and stashing all the parts that we can find. Taking rusty bent up tractors out of landfills and ripping them from the jaws of scrap crushers and spending our last dime to have parts shipped across the country and chasing down that one last factory option part.
Please remember , don't cut grass and drive !
It's the law ... or should be !
As if we don't get enough bad publicity for hoarding and stashing all the parts that we can find. Taking rusty bent up tractors out of landfills and ripping them from the jaws of scrap crushers and spending our last dime to have parts shipped across the country and chasing down that one last factory option part.
Please remember , don't cut grass and drive !
It's the law ... or should be !
Here is some video of the fluid in the reservior while engine is running.
http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a34/spanishsilver/?action=view¤t=a0ff730b.mp4
http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a34/spanishsilver/?action=view¤t=a0ff730b.mp4
Dennis Frisk...........Thank you for your post.
I think now the grandson may have changed his mind. He has pulled for one year, and has not done as well as he had hoped. I told him that he needs to make sure that he knows how to drive the tractor, because the problem could be the driver and possibly not the tractor. I guess taking him to the Hilliard Ohio winter pull made him feel that it is all about the power and driver ability means nothing.
Thanks again !!!
I think now the grandson may have changed his mind. He has pulled for one year, and has not done as well as he had hoped. I told him that he needs to make sure that he knows how to drive the tractor, because the problem could be the driver and possibly not the tractor. I guess taking him to the Hilliard Ohio winter pull made him feel that it is all about the power and driver ability means nothing.
Thanks again !!!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Denny-
I mentioned replacing the cross shaft and nut because that will more or less guarantee the elimination of a common oil leak on the K-series engines.
I mentioned replacing the cross shaft and nut because that will more or less guarantee the elimination of a common oil leak on the K-series engines.
Rich,
The 2 valves on the top front of the hydro are check valves. They do not come apart and you would not have installed ball and springs backwards. The valves are interchangeable. They could stick in an open or closed position. The nubs are for unloading the valves so that the tractor can be moved without the engine.
The single fitting in front of the check valves is the charge pressure relief valve.
All of this is in the Sauer Danfoss manual as well as troubleshooting procedures.
Good luck!
The 2 valves on the top front of the hydro are check valves. They do not come apart and you would not have installed ball and springs backwards. The valves are interchangeable. They could stick in an open or closed position. The nubs are for unloading the valves so that the tractor can be moved without the engine.
The single fitting in front of the check valves is the charge pressure relief valve.
All of this is in the Sauer Danfoss manual as well as troubleshooting procedures.
Good luck!
i am finishing restoration on the mower deck for my original, and i know that everything on the deck itself and the mounting hardware was originally cadet white. question is were the belt shields/guards on the deck cadet yellow originally? thanks in advance.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Rich T. After viewing your video.... The foam is normal from what I see. I pray that Charlie doesn't mind my borrowing a couple of pictures from his website. The below picture is the manual release charge check valve with the dump button.
Okay... If BOTH of those buttons are pushed in or are being held down then the tractor won't move in either direction. Now I am assuming that you have a NON ported hydro so it will look like the picture on page 25 of the Service Manual. You are 100% positive that the charge pump is in correct orientation (see part #6 Housing-Charge Pump) on Page 25 of the manual.
When you reassembled the valve plates you are again 100% positive that you aligned the valve plate up with the timing pin on both the pump and the motor and that the valve plates weren't installed upside down.
This is one of two models that I assemble. H1 Series Tandem. Try troubleshooting this critter. That is why I just can't understand how come everyone has so much trouble with the 15U.
Once again.... You are 100% positive that you re-installed everything correctly. If a valve plate fell out of position then you won't have enough pressure to run things. What did you use to hold the valve plates into position during the reassembly process?
Have you checked things with the type of gauges mentioned in the service manual?
Okay... If BOTH of those buttons are pushed in or are being held down then the tractor won't move in either direction. Now I am assuming that you have a NON ported hydro so it will look like the picture on page 25 of the Service Manual. You are 100% positive that the charge pump is in correct orientation (see part #6 Housing-Charge Pump) on Page 25 of the manual.
When you reassembled the valve plates you are again 100% positive that you aligned the valve plate up with the timing pin on both the pump and the motor and that the valve plates weren't installed upside down.
This is one of two models that I assemble. H1 Series Tandem. Try troubleshooting this critter. That is why I just can't understand how come everyone has so much trouble with the 15U.
Once again.... You are 100% positive that you re-installed everything correctly. If a valve plate fell out of position then you won't have enough pressure to run things. What did you use to hold the valve plates into position during the reassembly process?
Have you checked things with the type of gauges mentioned in the service manual?
STEVE B. - Here ya go.... be careful... there's some of that awful other color paint and a few pic's of some humorous stuff, You're pic #8; http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v285/HerbN/2011%20Half%20Century%20Of%20Progress/?albumview=slideshow
MATT G. - I agree, that brass nut & cross shaft can and will leak oil. But even with a good reed valve in the breather box, the old K-series Kohler leak oil about as bad as a 6-cylinder Chevy, I was going to say a Detroit Diesel but that would be cruel.
My old K181 that was in my 72 when I bought it leaked out of that brass nut bad after I had it a couple years. It was the incentive to rebiuld the K241 I had in it so many years. That K181 is powering my lawn vac now, with new rings & conn rod and it's not leaking near as much now, I "THINK" I may have replaced the nut when I rebuilt it.
MATT G. - I agree, that brass nut & cross shaft can and will leak oil. But even with a good reed valve in the breather box, the old K-series Kohler leak oil about as bad as a 6-cylinder Chevy, I was going to say a Detroit Diesel but that would be cruel.
My old K181 that was in my 72 when I bought it leaked out of that brass nut bad after I had it a couple years. It was the incentive to rebiuld the K241 I had in it so many years. That K181 is powering my lawn vac now, with new rings & conn rod and it's not leaking near as much now, I "THINK" I may have replaced the nut when I rebuilt it.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Ken,
I think you stated that wrong, the valves with the buttons are FWD/REV check valves, the relief valves have hex caps and contain a spring, shimms and a seat.
Rich T.
Are you 100% sure the charge pump drive pin is intact and that the charge pump isn't installed backwards????
I think you stated that wrong, the valves with the buttons are FWD/REV check valves, the relief valves have hex caps and contain a spring, shimms and a seat.
Rich T.
Are you 100% sure the charge pump drive pin is intact and that the charge pump isn't installed backwards????
