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Archive through September 07, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Thanks guys I think its going to come down to taking it apart to make sure somethings not backwards. I will wait a bit though to see if Wayne figures his out. He as well has a 1250. I have a spare pump and tranny but the pump is ported and the one on the 1250 isnt. I will keep you posted.
 
Rich T.

Silly question, but do you have the check valves installed when you are trying to run it FWD/REV? Are the buttons "up"????
 
Was hoping someone can tell me what model this blower is. It is supposed to be for a 100 but I cant find anything that looks like it on the internet. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

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Rich and all involved-

I have been working on another tractor but I've been keeping up with the posts on the mystery 1250s. I've done most everything mentioned at least once except what Marlin posted about the numbered parts to a check/relief valve(?) earlier today. Things that were working before weren't necessarily checked.

So.....I'm sort of waiting for you Rich. I have a feeling it's something simple on both tractors and we may even end up with the exact same problem.

I'm almost finished with the 1650 and then I plan to get back on the 1250.
 
Marlin I think I will dissasemble the pump tommorrow just to be sure its all correct. I cant be 100% sure so I will check. As far as the check valves the buttons are up. When its running and I push the buttons down they pop right back up. I will let you guys know how I make out tommorrow. Thanks again for all your time.
 
Looks like a CW 36

Rich,
I hope you figger it out.Did you use a correct gasket between the pump body and the tranny?
 
Hi guys, I looked for awhile in the vault and still couldn't find any info on how to remove the top mounted dipstick tube on a K301A. Is it threaded in or is it pressed in? I don't want to damage it by twisting on it if it's pressed in. Anybody chime in because this is something I haven't seen any talk about. It doesn't seem like it would be pressed in having an angle to it and if it's threaded I sure don't want to leave vise grip marks all over it. LOL
 
Mark, It's pressed in, the problem isn't getting it out. The problem is getting it to seal up after you break it loose. Why would you want to do it?
 
Hello Dave Ross, the reason I need it out is so I can put it another block. I'm trying to imagine the setup for pressing it in since it is angled so where would the pressure be placed? Or is it bent in place at the factory? Because I can make a new tube but pressing it in as an angle is beyond me but bending it in place I could possibly do. Thanks for your reply and help clue me in on this a little more.

Mark
 
Good Morning, All.
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Quick request here.... Would someone be able to post a picture of how the front of the charge pump should look when properly orientated? That would assist Rich T. before he starts his teardown. TIA!!!

Rich T. BEFORE you start the teardown study the manual and recheck the easy to access things first.

Man... I just realzied that I copied the 15 Series instead of the H1 information. This should be the H1 product line. H1 Product Information.

Take care y'all.
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Eric C,
+1 on the CW36.. I saw this on CL, I'm south of you in Marcellus... Are you the seller?

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Robert B., the belt guards should be yellow. Also, if equipped, the mulch plate and discharge guard rail would also be yellow. Note that the mounting brackets are yellow too.

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Eric C., a photo of the rear would be more telling of what model that is. If it's supposed to fit a 100 it's likely a CW-36, as has been mentioned. The auger housing from the front looks darn near the same as for a BB-36 which would be for use on an Original.
 
Well guys I may have found the problem with my 1250 Hydro. Seems I may have had the flat side of the pum on the wrong side. After studying my manual and looking at the charge pump I indeed had the charge pump installed wrong. here is a pic of the charge pump as it came off the hydro.

If you just flip the charge pump onto the hydro you can see how the flat side was on the wrong side. Hope that was the problem. What do you guys think would that have been the issue the whole time. Thanks
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Robert B., here's some photos of an non-restored Original mower deck showing proper colors and decal placement. The gauge wheel brackets should also be yellow.

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Rich-

I certainly hope that solves your situation but I know that's not my problem. I have loosened the driveshaft about four or five times and two of those times were to double check the charge pump orientation. I understand what you mean about the flat side (I think). I believe you are speaking of the side with no ports (?). Anyway, I marked my charge pump and still tried turning it 180* to remedy things but no go.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
thanks for the info kraig. i was fortunate to find a set of decals for the deck last year. any chance that on the 61's the gauge wheel brackets were white as well? i know that this tractor and deck had never been repainted or restored and i checked each part as i removed it and sandblasted it for original color. on this deck the gauge wheel brackets were white as well, no trace of yellow. i know that on most restorations i have seen they have been painted yellow. the mounting brackets to the frame and all hardware was white also where they are yellow on yours. any thoughts?
 
Rich T,

Hopefully the charge pump orientation is your problem. IH Cub Cadets have CCW rotation looking at the front of the engine. For CCW rotation, the charge pump should be oriented so the attachment bolt hole with the flat side is on the left hand side as sitting in the seat looking forward.
 
Robert, yes, I suppose an early '61 Original could have had all white parts on the deck. The brochures and other promotional documents for the Original (brochures are terrible sources as the photos were often of pre-production prototype tractors) show all white decks. Just curious, what's the S/N of your Original?

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Sales Flier cover.

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Postcard

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Brochure cover.
 

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