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Archive through September 02, 2004
- Thread starter jlang
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Wes- judging by the lineman's comment, your neighborhood is obviously powered by one leg of a 7250v 3-phase distribution line. Your house's transformer has 7250 coming in, and 240v split-phase coming out (120v each leg, with center neutral). Sounds like the transformer failed, and blasted it's high-voltage insulator off, landing on the terminal for one of your 240v mains.
That's a bad deal... your house wiring is all designed around a 600v insulation resistance... so major electrical carnage can be expected. Be sure to check ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING electrical (including your panel circuit breakers, etc) especially computer power supplies, electronic clocks, stoves, refrigerators, air-conditioners... typically, you'll have damaged or burned out filter capacitors, starting capacitors, power supply transformers,etc. that've internally arc'd over, and while they still function, they'll either be internally shorted (and not long for this world) or very close to it. They could melt down and cause a fire... not good when you're not around.
If you have a gas oven with electronic ignitor, check the oven portion for proper operation... if the oven valve won't open, replace the electronic ignitor- the surge probably zortched it to the point where it won't get hot enough to open the gas valve. Same goes for electric start on your furnace.
Zapped filter-caps and inductors may, or may not prevent your electronic appliances from working, but without the filtration, and RF noise they develop will not be stopped... it'll be radiated out through your house wiring, causing radio-interferance to other devices and radio systems for quite some distance... (several feet to several hundred miles).
Hopefully any surge that occurs an order-of-magnitude above your 600v insulation resistance got shunted out at your meter panel... like... never getting into the house...
Keep a very careful record of which devices failed, and be sure to submit the list (and replacement costs) to your utility and/or insurance company. Don't be surprised if you have an odd occurance of machinery 'dying' in a few months.
That's a bad deal... your house wiring is all designed around a 600v insulation resistance... so major electrical carnage can be expected. Be sure to check ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING electrical (including your panel circuit breakers, etc) especially computer power supplies, electronic clocks, stoves, refrigerators, air-conditioners... typically, you'll have damaged or burned out filter capacitors, starting capacitors, power supply transformers,etc. that've internally arc'd over, and while they still function, they'll either be internally shorted (and not long for this world) or very close to it. They could melt down and cause a fire... not good when you're not around.
If you have a gas oven with electronic ignitor, check the oven portion for proper operation... if the oven valve won't open, replace the electronic ignitor- the surge probably zortched it to the point where it won't get hot enough to open the gas valve. Same goes for electric start on your furnace.
Zapped filter-caps and inductors may, or may not prevent your electronic appliances from working, but without the filtration, and RF noise they develop will not be stopped... it'll be radiated out through your house wiring, causing radio-interferance to other devices and radio systems for quite some distance... (several feet to several hundred miles).
Hopefully any surge that occurs an order-of-magnitude above your 600v insulation resistance got shunted out at your meter panel... like... never getting into the house...
Keep a very careful record of which devices failed, and be sure to submit the list (and replacement costs) to your utility and/or insurance company. Don't be surprised if you have an odd occurance of machinery 'dying' in a few months.
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
I've got to ask, since it seems that so many are doing it...
Why are we all taking our hydros apart? Curiosity? Proving that there's something wrong with it? Because there's a chapter on it in the manual?
It's not likely that anyone's going to replace parts inside because they're so bloody expensive.
Why are we all taking our hydros apart? Curiosity? Proving that there's something wrong with it? Because there's a chapter on it in the manual?
It's not likely that anyone's going to replace parts inside because they're so bloody expensive.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bryan-
Good point. If it ain't broke, why take it apart anyway and risk breaking something?
Good point. If it ain't broke, why take it apart anyway and risk breaking something?
Kurt S.- Reverse the carrier and put equal amounts of shims on either side,it should be fine. There most certainly is a "carrier pin",it is the huge pin going through the center of the carrier that holds a whole bunch of gears and stuff together. However,it has absolutely nothing to do with what your trouble is so don't mess with it.
Here's a hydro question for the hydro gurus:
I've read that there's at least a .3 and .5 charge pump (can't remember the units of measure, I think it's cubic inches). Anyone happen to know what size a Cub Cadet's is?
I've read that there's at least a .3 and .5 charge pump (can't remember the units of measure, I think it's cubic inches). Anyone happen to know what size a Cub Cadet's is?
bmcmeen
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Wyatt -
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Implement (auxilliary) flow capability is offered on the Series 71 21cc transmission and on 15 Series units. Charge (implement) pump sizes available are: 18 in<sup>3</sup>/rev (3 cc/rev) for the Series 70 BDU-21L transmission, <font color="ff0000">.30 in<sup>3</sup>/rev (4.9 cc/rev) for the 15U transmission</font> and .33 in<sup>3</sup>/rev (5.4 cc/rev) for the 15PV, 15PT or 15 in-line transmission.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>You sure you didn't get all these numbers mixed up?
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Implement (auxilliary) flow capability is offered on the Series 71 21cc transmission and on 15 Series units. Charge (implement) pump sizes available are: 18 in<sup>3</sup>/rev (3 cc/rev) for the Series 70 BDU-21L transmission, <font color="ff0000">.30 in<sup>3</sup>/rev (4.9 cc/rev) for the 15U transmission</font> and .33 in<sup>3</sup>/rev (5.4 cc/rev) for the 15PV, 15PT or 15 in-line transmission.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>You sure you didn't get all these numbers mixed up?
Bryan-That's way too complicated for a Sunday. Couldn't that have waited for Tuesday?
I do LOVE the guys on eBay who think that "Original" means "factory equipment" and have old wideframe headlight housings listed as "Original". It just sucks that everyone isn't as smart as me....
I do LOVE the guys on eBay who think that "Original" means "factory equipment" and have old wideframe headlight housings listed as "Original". It just sucks that everyone isn't as smart as me....
rchristensen
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Bryan
The drawing on page 2-48 from the IH book works if you only have one pin in each side. Most that I have seen have two pins on the side with the trunion bracket. The IH manual doesn't mention that. Also getting the pin exactly inside the shaft is not always easy. Some of the early ones may have not had the hole drilled all the way through the swash plate and that would have made the hole thing easier as the pin would stop when it is fully inside the shaft.
The question on why people are taking the hydro's apart I would bet that most are doing it to replace the seal on the shaft on the trunion bracket side as this one can only be replaced when that shaft is out. I think Murphys law takes over and this will be the first one to leak.
The drawing on page 2-48 from the IH book works if you only have one pin in each side. Most that I have seen have two pins on the side with the trunion bracket. The IH manual doesn't mention that. Also getting the pin exactly inside the shaft is not always easy. Some of the early ones may have not had the hole drilled all the way through the swash plate and that would have made the hole thing easier as the pin would stop when it is fully inside the shaft.
The question on why people are taking the hydro's apart I would bet that most are doing it to replace the seal on the shaft on the trunion bracket side as this one can only be replaced when that shaft is out. I think Murphys law takes over and this will be the first one to leak.
rchristensen
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Paul
On the question on the different oil return paths, I don't know if the oil through the bearing helps the bearing any but one thing I like is it has less chance to leak out the cork gasket and that point is the weak spot.
This
Verses this on a 82 series.
But I haven't used the cork gasket for some time now on either one, I make mine out of Neopreme.
On the question on the different oil return paths, I don't know if the oil through the bearing helps the bearing any but one thing I like is it has less chance to leak out the cork gasket and that point is the weak spot.
This
Verses this on a 82 series.
But I haven't used the cork gasket for some time now on either one, I make mine out of Neopreme.
F
farmall gray
Guest
Bryan,
I had to tear the hydro apart on my 149 because
BOTH trunion shaft seals were leaking. You have to
take the trunion shaft with the arm on it out to replace the seal.
I should have refreshed the page before I posted this because Richard C said about the same thing I did.
(Message edited by tmarkle on September 05, 2004)
I had to tear the hydro apart on my 149 because
BOTH trunion shaft seals were leaking. You have to
take the trunion shaft with the arm on it out to replace the seal.
I should have refreshed the page before I posted this because Richard C said about the same thing I did.
(Message edited by tmarkle on September 05, 2004)
Bryan the reason i took my hydro apart is because i bought a used ported to make a hydro lift,just to find out later that it leak beteen the two halfs. It took a while to find the leak it was slow and had to use foot power to find the leak.all this after replacing the cork seal the release valves seals,so i bought another used hydro and went though it so i would not have any problems.now all i need is time to install it hopfully it works but thats another story
Richard C - my parts catalog t-c157 shows only one pin per side on the swashplate,the parts catalog i have for some later cubs have two pins on the truin shafts.I don't have that catalog here in front of me so i don't know the # of that one. it would be nice to know witch ones have two pins and the ones that don't. by the way the one that had two pins when i took it apart did not have a pin sticking out of the swashplate,so how do you tell wich has two and witch has one?
rchristensen
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Mike
I don't know if there was a serial break when they went to two pins or why they did it. My 1450 manual only mentions one pin per side while the 782 manual has a note that there are two pins on one side but they describe the removal process exactly the same as if you only have one per side. Lots of luck if you follow their procedure. Thats where the Sauer/Sundstrand book has helped me.
By the way (BRYAN COVER EYES) my JD 140 manual shows only one pin per side on basically the same hydro and the trunion side does not have the bracket so it looks like you could replace all of the seals without opening up they hydro. (OKAY BRYAN YOU CAN OPEN EYES).
I don't know if there was a serial break when they went to two pins or why they did it. My 1450 manual only mentions one pin per side while the 782 manual has a note that there are two pins on one side but they describe the removal process exactly the same as if you only have one per side. Lots of luck if you follow their procedure. Thats where the Sauer/Sundstrand book has helped me.
By the way (BRYAN COVER EYES) my JD 140 manual shows only one pin per side on basically the same hydro and the trunion side does not have the bracket so it looks like you could replace all of the seals without opening up they hydro. (OKAY BRYAN YOU CAN OPEN EYES).
bmcmeen
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Richard C. -
I beg to differ. There's CLEARLY two pins on the left side of the manual scan that I posted, not one. Same manual, perhaps a different date. Mine's a reprint of the "last" or "latest" manual.
And yes, you're right, <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> shot itself in the foot by coming up with that damper contraption. Woulda been a whole lot easier if they didn't make it part of the shaft
I beg to differ. There's CLEARLY two pins on the left side of the manual scan that I posted, not one. Same manual, perhaps a different date. Mine's a reprint of the "last" or "latest" manual.
And yes, you're right, <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> shot itself in the foot by coming up with that damper contraption. Woulda been a whole lot easier if they didn't make it part of the shaft
