hi John,
It's under #8 in the FAQ.
http://www.ihregistry.com/
Mike
(Message edited by mkjohnson on September 03, 2004)
It's under #8 in the FAQ.
http://www.ihregistry.com/
Mike
(Message edited by mkjohnson on September 03, 2004)
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Archive through September 02, 2004
- Thread starter jlang
- Start date
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bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
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- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Hmmm - that's what happens when you keep changing your URL and don't leave redirects at the old addresses. People lose track of your site
MKJ -
That URL isn't even technically correct.
MKJ -
That URL isn't even technically correct.
J
jeason
Guest
<font color="ff0000">Read the notes at the top of the page - NO TEST OR NONSENSE POSTS</font>
Our home depot here in Erie, PA only had some wheel weights left for $10, I wanted either a box blade or a cultivator, guess I will have to wait till next year. If anybody sees any others close to Erie, please let me know. Cheers MIke
Jerry-
That is in fact the white Haban that is now yours. The 406 Haban is one just like the one I got from you. It got swapped for some nice <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet goodies from the Midwest.
I think the one you have was originally on a Sears. It, like the 406, is set-up with an angle drive to accomodate the transverse mounted engines of those particular models.
That is in fact the white Haban that is now yours. The 406 Haban is one just like the one I got from you. It got swapped for some nice <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet goodies from the Midwest.
I think the one you have was originally on a Sears. It, like the 406, is set-up with an angle drive to accomodate the transverse mounted engines of those particular models.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Hey all,
Had a interesting experience while going through my hydro this afternoon.
When I was removing the trunion shaft roll pins (the required 15/32"). One shaft came out fine.
But the other side would not move, well I figured maybe I tapped the roll pin a bit to far, I tapped harder but the roll pin bottomed out on the hydro case. I bored a hole through the aluminum case with plans to just tap it out for A 1/8 NPT pipe plug. As I tapped on the roll pin, one pin came out and then another---- yes two, someone put two roll pins in at the factory.
Had a interesting experience while going through my hydro this afternoon.
When I was removing the trunion shaft roll pins (the required 15/32"). One shaft came out fine.
But the other side would not move, well I figured maybe I tapped the roll pin a bit to far, I tapped harder but the roll pin bottomed out on the hydro case. I bored a hole through the aluminum case with plans to just tap it out for A 1/8 NPT pipe plug. As I tapped on the roll pin, one pin came out and then another---- yes two, someone put two roll pins in at the factory.
till
Well-known member
Well Stinky's problem was a bad coil. I'm so glad that he is at full speed now.
Thanks to Houtz for the low milage coil!!!!
Spot just will not die, that tractor was born to hang........
(Message edited by till on September 04, 2004)
Thanks to Houtz for the low milage coil!!!!
Spot just will not die, that tractor was born to hang........
(Message edited by till on September 04, 2004)
Paul that same thing happen to me about 3wks ago some hydros use two pins on the trunion side.I went though two differant ported hydros one had two & the other had one! the F*cking manual says to drive the pin to 15/32 and remove the shaft,i have not found how to remove them when there are two pins or how to tell if you have two pins or not.first hydro i did had one pin so it went smooth but the other had two pins and i am still
my head over it
K
kstanwick
Guest
<font color="ff0000">Read the notes at the top of the page - NO TEST OR NONSENSE POSTS</font>
K
kstanwick
Guest
OK. I finally took apart the 128 that i got with a broken rear axle. Being i never took apart a rear end of anything it was two separte axles with gears in the middle. Sure enough one of them was broken and so far i have the new one in place but not put together completely. everything looks good but here is my dilema. When i got it the guy told me who ever fixzed it now it has 3 reverse and 1 forward....i asked this once before and someone mentioned that the carrier pin was reversed. i should just reverse it and it will be ok....forgive me if i'm stupid here but where is the carrier pin?? i am wondering if he put that big gear asembly on the wrong side. right now, facing the back of the tractor its on the left side. It was the right side that was broken. Can anyone please shed some light on me here. and i apologize if this is a no brainer for some. Thanks in advance
Kurt
Kurt
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I don't know what a carrier pin is, but I think you have the carrier in backwards and you'll need to flip it so the ring gear is on the other side.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong since I've never done this.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong since I've never done this.
Interesting morning for me. While waiting for my brother to show up so we could go to the thresheree in Edgerton, Wi., the electricity went off and then a few seconds later a loud bang came from outside. Can any one tell me what happens when one main power line comes loose and falls on another? Well, lets just say we had a nice fire outside. It blew the main disconnect right out of my fuse box. The neighbor was worse in that they got the main jolt. It fried most of the wires in thier house and took most of thier appliances with it. The lineman figured thier house took about a 7000 volt hit. They will not have power until sometime Tuesday or Wednesday. I had power by early afternoon. It took out the fuse box in my house plus 2 surge protectors and one small TV. It could have been much worse but the 2 surge protectors saved the VCR, stereo, dish controller, TV, and computer. Needless to say the 2nd call I made this morning was to my insurance company, the first was to the electric company reporting the down line.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Paul and Mike
I don't know what manual you are using on the Hydro but I have both the IH manual and one from Sauer/Sundstrand for the 15 series U type hydro. The IH manual mentions that some swash plates are drilled all the way through and to be careful not to drive the pins through the shaft and into the lower holes in the swash plate, they also only mention one pin on either side. Every swash plate I have seen is drilled all the way through, and every hydro I have seen has two pins on the side of the trunion bracket.
The Sauer/Sundstrand manual has different directions and this is the way I always do it. It helps if you build the wood stand for holding the hydro and then mark it like this.
Place the hydro housing on the stand like the picture, rotate the swash plate to its full forward position like the marker drawing on the stand. With a 3/16 dia punch drive the pins through the shaft until they touch the housing (Remember there will probably be two pins on the trunion bracket side and only one on the control shaft side.) when the pins contact the housing you should be able to rotate the swash plate back the other way and the pins will drop into the housing. Tilt the swash plate back to its full forward and drive out the other pin on the trunion bracket side. You should then be able to remove both shafts.
On some swash plates the rotation forward is 15 degrees and only 7 1/2 degrees reverse so be sure you are rotated in the forward position or you will be in trouble.
Here is another picture of the inside of the hydro with the swash plate removed and you can see there is more space to remove the pins when you are rotated CCW or the forward position on the hydro shaft.
Note I marked the stand with the swash plate rotation for pin removal and which side has the single pin and the side with two pins. Also the marker drawing on the top indicates which side of the hydro pump has the flat side so when I put it back together I don't install in wrong.
One last suggestion, the manual tells you when you re-install the shafts to line them up and then drive the pins through the swash plate into the shafts. If you do it that way the shaft normally moves and you have a heck of a time trying to get the pins in, I have what I think is a better way.
I drive the two pins into the shafts before I put them into the swash plate, then look down in the holes in the swash plate and when they are lined up with the pins in the shaft I use the 3/16 punch and drive them into the lower hole in the swash plate.
On the side with the two pins, once you have the first pin started install the second pin and drive it in. Make a mark on the punch 1/4 inch from the end and drive the pins in to that mark, which will center both pins in the swash plate and the shaft.
On the side with only one pin, measure the length of the pin, install the punch in the hole and add 1/2 of the length of the pin and mark the punch, when you drive the pin in it will be half in the shaft and half in the swash plate.
This way is much easier than the way the book tells you to do it as far as I'm concerned.
I don't know what manual you are using on the Hydro but I have both the IH manual and one from Sauer/Sundstrand for the 15 series U type hydro. The IH manual mentions that some swash plates are drilled all the way through and to be careful not to drive the pins through the shaft and into the lower holes in the swash plate, they also only mention one pin on either side. Every swash plate I have seen is drilled all the way through, and every hydro I have seen has two pins on the side of the trunion bracket.
The Sauer/Sundstrand manual has different directions and this is the way I always do it. It helps if you build the wood stand for holding the hydro and then mark it like this.
Place the hydro housing on the stand like the picture, rotate the swash plate to its full forward position like the marker drawing on the stand. With a 3/16 dia punch drive the pins through the shaft until they touch the housing (Remember there will probably be two pins on the trunion bracket side and only one on the control shaft side.) when the pins contact the housing you should be able to rotate the swash plate back the other way and the pins will drop into the housing. Tilt the swash plate back to its full forward and drive out the other pin on the trunion bracket side. You should then be able to remove both shafts.
On some swash plates the rotation forward is 15 degrees and only 7 1/2 degrees reverse so be sure you are rotated in the forward position or you will be in trouble.
Here is another picture of the inside of the hydro with the swash plate removed and you can see there is more space to remove the pins when you are rotated CCW or the forward position on the hydro shaft.
Note I marked the stand with the swash plate rotation for pin removal and which side has the single pin and the side with two pins. Also the marker drawing on the top indicates which side of the hydro pump has the flat side so when I put it back together I don't install in wrong.
One last suggestion, the manual tells you when you re-install the shafts to line them up and then drive the pins through the swash plate into the shafts. If you do it that way the shaft normally moves and you have a heck of a time trying to get the pins in, I have what I think is a better way.
I drive the two pins into the shafts before I put them into the swash plate, then look down in the holes in the swash plate and when they are lined up with the pins in the shaft I use the 3/16 punch and drive them into the lower hole in the swash plate.
On the side with the two pins, once you have the first pin started install the second pin and drive it in. Make a mark on the punch 1/4 inch from the end and drive the pins in to that mark, which will center both pins in the swash plate and the shaft.
On the side with only one pin, measure the length of the pin, install the punch in the hole and add 1/2 of the length of the pin and mark the punch, when you drive the pin in it will be half in the shaft and half in the swash plate.
This way is much easier than the way the book tells you to do it as far as I'm concerned.
K
kstanwick
Guest
Thanks guys for the info. I assume the gear assembly is called the carrier and there is no such thing as a carrier pin..that is my fault...I also noticed from another site that i was able to find an exploded view of a transaxle...sure enough there is a pic of the big gear on the other side....anyway...it mentioned the shims on each side should be noted as such for reinstallation. Being that i assume the guy that originally fixed this did a botch job...is there anything i need to look out for when reversing this. Should i reverse everything?? shims and all?? I am going to work on this today....and thanks
Kurt
Kurt
