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Archive through October 17, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Art some of us are still making it through all that hard stuf lol. and some have moved on and well its nice to see Charhie has a cab now. Nice to be where he is to have all that Cub stuff near to those who NEED it lol. I`am so far and well your so much a good needed Cub guy,,Later Don T
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Hydraulic Engine Hoist Question

I have one of the Chinese made 'cherry picker' type engine hoists, for lifting Kohler engines and such. I am not sure if my 8 ton ram is working properly. If anyone has a similar setup, would you please tell me how many pumps it takes to raise the ram from full down positon to ram fully extended? Mine is taking about 320 - 330 pumps. I bought a new ram and it works exactly the same. Do I have two bad rams, or is this the norm?

Thanks,

John-David Reaves
ROLL TIDE
 
Got a engine in the 169 yesterday. Bored .10 block, new crank rod and piston. Left out the balance gears. Only difference is very little more shake at slow idle. No problem.That 169 is really a powerhouse. It is now ready for the 44 deck with gator blades.
95462.jpg

Didn't paint very good but it is next years refurb project.Will post more pictures later.
 
<font size="-1">"Tristan,

Welcome

This is what a stock 129 muffler looks like.

Picture curtsey of Kraig McConaughey and he pointed out that the upper heat sheild is not shown.

You might be able to get a more quiet muffler, but it may reduce the horse power.

These olde Kohlers have a pretty good bark to them, that's why I wear ear plugs.

Jim"</font>


Thanks Jim. Yeah mine is a stock muffler. Why I wondered if mine was shot was because I tested out two cubs for sale, the 129 and a 1250, both were just about identical mowers really with hydro, 44" decks, 12hp kohler, etc but the 1250 was a lot quieter than the 129. Did the 1250 have a different muffler or some other reason it would be quiter?
 
Hey guys.I have a 12 hp kohler with a starter not a s/g and I would like to know what is the flat black box on the left side of the engine-it has 2 heavy black wires on it with a connector.Its mounted into the fan shroud.This 12 comes from a 1200 and is now in a 126.Thanks for the help.K.W.
 
Keith W:

Is this what you are referring to....???
95465.jpg


IF SO, this is a Solid Sate Voltage Regulator/Rectifier.
 
Tristan- Yes, the 1250 was a lot quieter from the factory. They had a different muffler and muffler setup and had the side panels to further muffle the engine noise. The 1250 style tractors have been dubbed "quiet line" series because of that. You'll probably want to put a new muffler on your 129 and wear ear protection when running it. You'll actually get to where you enjoy the "noise" the engine makes.
 
John-David Reaves: I would say that is about normal.

I have never counted how many times I have to work the handle on my engine hoist, but -it is a lot- to get through it's full range of motion!! Each pump lifts about 1/4" to 1/2" I would guess...this of course will change with how far you have the top lift arm out...further out, means more lift height with each pump of the cylinder handle. This is done so you can 'ease' whatever you are lifting up, instead of it raising 1"-2" each time you work the handle.

When I'm using the hoist to pull or set Kohlers in Cub Cadets, I'll have the legs and the top lift arm out about 1/2 way. When I'm lifting a vehicle engine, I set the legs out almost all the way, and keep the arm as short as I can.

BTW, did you, or can you, check the fluid level in the hoist ram?
 
Anybody else notice the "different" features on this 102 Don and Kraig posted earlier?

95471.jpg


<font color="0000ff">Down-turned tip on muffler</font>

...and

<font color="ff0000">Strange lift bracket</font>

??????
 
hello again cubbers,I recently rebuilt a k321 and the shop put the balance gears in using new shafts,bearings and new style gears.It has bout 4 hours run time on it now and its rattling.How do I git those gears out without pulling out the rings? can it be done?Also what size wire should I use to go between the electric lift motor and the switch.The wires on the electric motor seem to be 14 so I used 12 guage to go from the switch to the "motor" connection.Now the 14 guage wires get sorta hot and it starts glitching on me.I got a new switch and a new motor so it has to be the wires going between the two.other than that my 147 turned out beautiful.
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BILL COOK

Thanks for the answer. I have checked the fluid level and bled the system and purged all air. I did the same thing with the new ram. I'll take it back, now that I know the old ram wasn't bad, after all.

My welder/fabricator friend helped me reason it out. I'm lifting a 1 1/4 inch steel bar by pumping a 3/8 inch plunger in strokes of about 1 inch. Thus, I'm not moving very much fluid with each stroke. So it only raises the ram about 1/8 to 1/4 inch with each stroke. Makes sense, when it's explained that way.

I have the whole hoist taken apart. Whoever owned it before the pawn shop, had left it out in the weather for a while. Paint was bubbling up and peeling, and the exposed part of the ram has turned black. I have cleaned the parts and am ready to begin painting. It will be IH/Cub Cadet yellow, IH white, and black. I think it will make a statement in my shop.

Thanks again,

John-David Reaves
ROLL TIDE
 
Doing some catching up on reading here about the tillers. Kinda late, but here's a shot of my brother on my dads Original back in about 1969.

95476.jpg


Dad had her set up well, creeper, rear lift with assist spring.....and straight pipe!
I had a lot or rides in a Jon boat pulled behind this rig. Now I have permanent YELLOW FEVER.
 
Art, not sure but I think those pics were from a guy in England. That could explain some of the differences, they could have wanted some changes. There was a saw attachment for Cubs sold in England I would love to get my hands on.
95480.jpg
 
So I had been having some issues with charging and it seems that I will no longer let anyone but myself do any work to my Cub! I had my uncle and grandfather rebuild the engine a few years back and have had charging problems ever since. After being on here and reading the old posts about charging problems I had found mine and its a good one. They had stripped the positive stud on the starter/generator, to my dismay I now have to tear it apart to get a new stud in it. Are there any good ways to go about this, and is it a pain in the neck??
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Timothy, you can remove the bottom balance gear without disassembling the motor, just remove the snap ring and slide it out. Make sure to get all the shims out. To get the top gear out without pulling the crankshaft, use a cold chisel. I used a 3/4" chisel, but a 1" should work too. Put the chisel between the teeth where the balance gear transitions from the thick to thin section. Hammer the chisel like you are going to pound it down through the floor. It should break the gear clean in two with one stroke. Pull all the pieces out, make sure to remove the shims, the bearing and any needles that fell out of the bearing. Wipe the inside of the motor out real well with a clean rag, be sure to get any metal chips out. Use a magnetic drain plug when you put it back together. You should be all set.
 
Hello guys
Looooong time gone!even looonger story!I havent had to sell the cubs though thank God!
Frank I havent forgot,sorry!
 
Does anyone have a shop manual for the starter/generator in a .pdf file?
 
ok im xtremely confused i have a 100 but my S/N is (12333) is it just me or is that an "O" S/N
 

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