Archive through October 07, 2005

[kmcconaughey]

Todd, make sure you got the float adjusted correctly sounds like it's not shutting the needle valve. It's also possible that there is something in the seat that is not allowing it to fully seal. I'm not sure what the lift rod length is for a QA36A on a 1200 but Steve Bluniers method of measuring to make a lift rod for a blade should work for a snowthrower too. Drive the Cub up on some 2x lumber with the QA36A mounted measure the length between the lift point on the QA36A and the lift point on the 1200 with the lift in the lowest position. Here's some photos of Steve's 100 and blade for reference.

Here's a couple of photos of the "ramming speed" ™ lift rod that Steve made.

And here's an adjustable lift rod that I designed that is loosely based on Steve's fixed length lift rod.

 

[bmcmeen]

Kraig -

OUCH! Nice post to have bitten by the archive bug...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, yeah, tell me about it!

 

[tcarter]

Thanks for all the quick replies. I will check the float, needle valve and seat again.

Kraig- Steve Bluniers method looks good. Thanks.

I have also just changed the 4" pully on the QA36A to 3 1/2" will it require a new belt.

Sorry for all the question, just want to make sure I am doing the right thing.

 

[bmcmeen]

Todd C. -

It may or may not. Best bet is to head to the store and pickup a couple belts and see which one fits best and return the other.

<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>

 

[digger]

Todd C.
I used the same belt I used before I went to the smaller pulley. The thrower had enough adjustment to take up the slack. BUT, a new belt is always better than an old one.

 

[rleo]

Denny,
It's tough to beat brats and beer. I'm in. <font size="-2">but I'll pass on the cheese curds</font>

 

[tcarter]

Will try the adjustments and current belt first. Thanks all!

Love brats, beer and cheese curd

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie/Todd -

Part of the reason that I use a different belt is so that I can get away with using the same belt for BOTH the QA42A w/smaller pulley AND the 59M.

Besides, I like to have more tension adjustment available and a looser (ie, original) belt won't allow for that.

 

[kupdike]

Speaking of food.......Here's an interesting site for the loader FANatics who scoop it up..... http://kwmanufacturing.com/phpBB2/

 

[mhomrighausen]

Good evening one and all. Question here that I hope someone can answer. Is there a way to remove white paint spatter from a tire without ruining the tire? Reason that I am asking is because I have taken on a couple of projects for the company. I have a prototype hydro rearend that will be cleaned up and repainted. I also have a prototype hydrostatic snowthrower that needs to be cleaned and repainted. Somehow throughout the years some paint spatters have gotten on one of the tires. They are really neat around forty year old tires with studs in them and if possible I want to reuse them when the snowthrower is finished. Both items were in the company storage area. Both are around forty years old and will be put in the company museum when finished. I hope to have pictures tomorrow if all goes well. Oh... one more thing. Along with the above items I also have a non ported 15U for a Cub Cadet that also will be cleaned and put in the museum. It had never left the factory until this week. My garage is getting very crowded right now. :+)

 

[digger]

Marlin,
Lacquer thinner on a rag works fine.
Or,Believe it or not, but Easy Off oven cleaner works great for spot removal of paint. BUT!!!!!!!!
You have to be careful, the overspray and WILL remove Cub paint too.
Neither one will hurt the rubber.

(Message edited by cproctor on October 07, 2005)

 

[wham]

Picked up another toy today at a farm equip auction. Got a complete non running 1250 for 60 bucks. Probably gonna be asking a few questions about this one like is this a good project tractor to do for show or is it too new. I have a 100 that is probably too far gone to start with but now I have this and a recently aquired 124. Advice appreciated. WHam

 

[bmcmeen]

Mr. Ham -

I think you're putting a wee bit too much thought into this

Tractor shows aren't like car shows where there's a definite dividing line between "classic" and everything else...

 

[pbell]

Ray, Denny
The 16/36 - 19/33 tooth 2nd gear change in the 70/100 happened in Oct 64. S/N 96766 and up had the 19/33 tooth gears.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Thank You Charlie. The company recently was cleaning out the storage area and threw away over 30 items from throughout the years. I volunteered to restore these items for the museum or they would have been scrap yard material. And the scrap yard they would have gone to won't sell anything from anywhere back into the public. Gotta call the fella with the 127 now. He didn't deliver or call yesterday. It appears that I may have to pick it up afterall. Pretty day for a road trip. :+)

 

[bmoore]

Marlin H,
I'll agree with Charlie regarding the lacquer thinner. We did that in the body shop where I worked a couple of summers, with the caution that the lacquer thinner could possibly dry out the rubber if it sat on there too long. I have no idea if that's true or possible, but we were warned by a tire dealer, who naturally would like to have sold new tires. Usually it works pretty fast and evaporates almost immediately. It is hard on your skin, so wear a rubber glove or two.
Another thing that worked was sandblasting. On a 1929 Model A pickup, previous owners had brush-painted the wheels with the tires on, and were pretty sloppy about it. Those tires were cracked to start with, and the owner just wanted to use it for parades and such, so he didn't care. We (meaning "I," being the junior employee) blasted the wire wheels with the tires on, since the owner wasn't interested in a perfect restoration or it's cost. Outside, summer sun, protective hood/face shield, long leather gloves, canvas coat. Fun. The sand bounced off the rubber, but ate the paint. We ended up removing all the tires anyway to blast and paint the inside of the rims due to the rust, but it did get the dozens of coats of paint off the tires. That would also remove the rust that's surely coating the studs in your tires. If you have access to good blasting services, maybe glass beading or something like walnut hulls would be easier on the rubber. If you're really fanatic about it, a spot of clear lacquer or a dab of clear fingernail polish would seal the metal, and they'd look nice and shiny for a long time sitting in a controlled environment.
If you use any kind of rubber conditioner with silicone in it, do it after painting everything. The silicone will cause the paint to "fisheye" if there's any on what you're painting, and the conditioner overspray will drift everywhere.

 

[bmcmeen]

Bruce M. -

Dan H blasts all his tires...

 

[bmoore]

Wow, mowed this afternoon. The grass in the back yard was deceptively tall. We'd had some rain, but I didn't realize it had grown so much. I took a couple of stabs at it with the 125, first with the deck up a notch, then at normal height to chop it up a little finer. With a few extra passes, it looked okay. I guess I'll let it dry a day, then sweep it up.
I think I have something in my fuel line somewhere. Ocassionally, the engine cut out, and even died a couple of times, like the fuel just stopped flowing. It would start right up again if I pulled the choke a little. Low speed ran for the rest of the job, but more throttle would kill it.

 

[moreilly]

Bruce,
I'm having the same problem with my 1650. Pulled the float bowl and the adjustment needles, all were spotless. Manually operated the float and it shut off o.k. When I let gas flow I could hear air trying to go up the fuel line. Pulled the fuel line off the carb and only could get a flow of about half the dia. of the line. I think the vent on the tank is not working. All of the wiggling of the fuel line caused the grommet on the fuel shut on the bottom of the tank to fail. I haven't had time to replace it and check out my theory yet. So you might want to check the vent first and save yourself a lot of trouble.