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Archive through December 10, 2003

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Paul, here are the Category 0 dimensions on my AC620, I wrote this up several years ago for someone else on the Forum. Don't know if it will be helpful or not or if it will even make sense.

Upper arm width center to center 15"
Upper arm length 6" (center of pivot point to center of lift arm link attachment pin)
Lower lift arm width center to center 13.75"
Lower arm length 21" (center of pivot point to center of pin attachment hole)
Upper lift arm pivot point is at a point 10" above and 6" rearward of lower lift arm pivot point
Lift arm links - 12.5", adjustable + or - approximately 2"
Lift arm links attach at rear end of upper lift arms and at a point 5.25" forward of the center of the lower lift arm pin attachment hole
Stay chains attach to lower lift arm at a point 3.5" forward of lift arm link
Top link attachment points are 0.75" and 2" below upper lift arm pivot point (two attachment points offer options for different implements)
Top link attachment points are 1.75" rearward of upper lift arm pivot point.
 
Paul, here is a description of the dimensions of the Brinly CAT-0 to sleeve hitch adapter it might also be helpful. I think I wrote this up long ago for Travis.

bottom portion is 3/8" x 2 -1/2" angle stock 18 -3/8" long
and has 9 1/2" dia. holes equally spaced 2" on center

side pieces are made from 2 -1/4" x 3/8" bar stock (if straightened out,
they would be 18 -1/8" long)

"top link' holes are 11/16" diameter
overall width without lift pins= 19 -1/4"
overall height = 14 -1/8"
height from bottom to center of lower 'top link' hole = 11 -3/8"
height from bottom to center of upper 'top link' hole = 13 -1/4"
width between top pieces where 'top link' connects = 1"
lift pins are 5/8" diameter (standard cat-0 part)
top brace piece is made of 2" x 1/4" bar stock

sleeve adapter portion is made of two pieces of bar stock welded together to
form an 'L'

'first piece' is 3" x 1/2" bar stock 5 -1/2" long and is butt welded onto
the face of the 'second piece'

'second piece' is 2 -1/4" x 5/16" bar stock 5 -1/2" long

'first piece' has a 3 -3/8" long x 1" O.D. x 11/16" I.D. inserted into it
and extending 5/8" beyond
has a triangle piece of 5/16" stock as a brace to the pipe

two nuts (9/16-12") are welded to the 'second piece' 2 -3/4" center to center

the sleeve adapter portion is bolted to the main 3-point adapter with two
1/2" bolts through the 'second piece' with 1/2" holes spaced 4" center to
center.
 
Thanks, Kraig. Think I understand the different dimensions. You must've had fun measuring all those!!
 
Put the blade on the 70 last night hoping to go play in the snow tonight but we only got a scant 2 inches { was really wishing for bout 6 inches or so of the white stuff to play in ...better luck next time...}
 
Bryan,
14377.gif
 
Just went out and played a little with the QA36A and the 169, not hardly enough snow to make it worth it, ended up pushing a bunch into a pile and blew it to the back yard, the 169 seems to have enough oomph to not even know what's going on.

Tedd-
Skip the framing hammer, Dad was a construction contractor and for 25 years, uses just a plain Plumb brand finish hammer, I use one for everything too, they hurt much less when you hit your thumb (and no matter how good you are you DO miss once and a while), plus with the curved claw they fit into many more tight spaces.
 
Hey Russ, I've replaced two harnesses on 147s which is the same for the 127 I believe. It's a fairly easy job and like Rich said, it's worth it. When I did the job on both of them, I removed the motor since the 14 horse engine sticks out past the "normal" width of a narrow frame. I'm not sure if you will have the same issue with the 127 or not. One word of advice when doing this, make sure you have a wiring diagram handy or make sure that you write down where all the wires go before disconnecting them (especially from the voltage regulator) so you know how to hook up the new harness. The only other thing I have to say about this is that Rich is correct in that the harness is for the base tractor and does not come with any additional wires for lights or electric lift (if equipped). Have fun in the spring!
 
It must be my day for posting . . .

Not sure if anyone is still interested in pictures of Pincor generators but here is a shot of my 147 with the Pincor installed. Notice the mounting plate that isn't painted. This is the first time I used the generator after having to make up a mounting plate to replace the one that was missing when I bought the generator. I'm not sure if all the specs are 100% but it looks pretty close when compared with the pictures in the manual. Enjoy . . .

14379.jpg

14380.jpg
 
Wyatt -

Framing hammer? Isn't that what ya call certain folks from Massachussetts?
roflol.gif
 
Steve S., your post reminded me that I got some new photos of Cub mounted generators. These are of a Pincor Generator. The photos were sent to me by Jim B.

14382.jpg


14383.jpg


Jim also sent this photo and is going to send me scans of the manual. :eek:)

14384.jpg


Thanks Jim B.!!!
 
Steve S / Russ

You don't need to yank the motor, the V/R portion of the harness will snake along the frame rail just fine.

Tail light wires aren't included, but the purple headlight wire is.
 
Paul F,

I am emailing you a word doc that has cat 0 info I collected from the web.

Jim E
 
Bryan,

How many do you think got your joke about Framing hammer?

Jim E (former Framing hammer)
 
Jim E. -

Only those that live around there and/or listen to Click 'n' Clack all the time
wink.gif
 
Jim E., while you're at it could you email that CAT-0 info to me too? How 'bout if I say "Please!"? TIA
 
Jim E. If I said Please, Please could I also get a copy of that Word Doc on Cat-O? I just happen to be into that at this time.

I thought listening to Click 'n' Clack was mandatory on Saturday.....
 
Steve S., Jim B., and Kraig M.
Thanks for the photos of the generator mount. My vacation starts next week. I have another Cub project for my Christmas vacation.
 
I am repairing 3 of the old tapered bearing mower deck spindles. I have replaced the races, bearings, seals, and spacers. When I put the pulley on the shaft, the pulley rubs against the spindle housing. I can put a washer under the pulley, but the book doesn't call for one. Anyone else had this problem? Thanks
 
Bryan:
OK. Since I'm the one that brought up framing hammers, I'll bite: I don't get the Mass. joke. I'm in the fog. Explain.

<font size="-2">and Wyatt, I'll never give up my framing hammer, but do own a 16 for general purpose dinking.</font>

stupid.gif
(picture of me)
 
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