Archive through November 25, 2006

[sblunier]

Greg,

There are 2 set screws in each hole on the PTO, one on top that serves as a jam/lock, and one under it that serves to hold the PTO to the bearing. Make sure you have taken 6 set screws out.

Then, beat the hell outta it, because they can be a real PITA to get off.

 

[hsimon]

Charlie- thanks again for the deep freeze got it unloaded from the truck by myself and let me say it was not light having to move it uphill to get it off of the pickup!!!! Plugged her in just a few minutes ago and like a true and proven IH product she took right off and is chilling out!!!

 

[rbedell]

Ken M:

You are welcome. I have no experience with a 16HP single cylinder. I hear they tend to shake a lot. My biggest HP, single cylinder Cub is a 1450, and the amp gauge needle is steady (no jittering). My guess is that the Amp Gauge "movement" is going bad.

Here is a Diagram to check out the Charging System for that Alternator Circuit:

 

[mbounds]

Roland, Ken M: I've got a 1650. I did the Cap'n Kirk Iso-bar modification on it and I find the that ole 16 doesn't shake much if any more that any other Kohler I have (incl a 14 hp)...I think that the "super shakey 16 hp" is a bit of over-blown hype around here. Ken, use your multi-meter to the center pin of the rectifier(see Roland's diagram) to see if the 12v voltage is fluctuating. If the multimeter isn't fluctuating, then your gauge is bad...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[till]

Glen,

Come on, I have my sun glasses on. Bring out the shinest one ya got!!!

I see Charlie has now given me the right paint to make a X82 demo....

 

[wcompton]

Engine question-
I'm putting an engine back together, I tore the engine down bare to start with. When putting the governor parts back in, I tapped in the dowel pin that the governor gear rides on and when I put the governor gear back on it turns by hand, but by no means will spin on it's own. Is the gear supposed to bind a little on the shaft until it's broke in or is there something else wrong? Thanks in advance!

 

[rchristensen]

Some thoughts this morning. Ken M. someone has probably replaced your Amp Gauge with a cheap replacement gauge. I bought some cheap ones and they bounce like crazy, almost worthless. Replace it with a good one.

Compare a 149 with a 169 and you can immediately tell the difference, more torque, and more vibration. That's what I love about my 169, the feel of raw power.

I re-powered a 1450 with a 16 hp and immediately noticed more vibration and more power.

As far as the ISO rail modification, (one of the better mods you can do) it does nothing to reduce vibration. The only thing that affects vibration is the type of ISO rubbers you use. Nothing is as good as the original ISO rubbers that the Cubs came with. The new improved ISO rubbers will always give more vibration and every other type of replacement rubber mount will probably never be as good as the original rubbers were.

That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.

 

[gcoleman]

Don't Worry... I 'll make a 149 <font color="ff0000">DEMONSTRATOR</font> eventually... gotta rebuild it first...

 

[sblunier]

16 hp Kohler single.

Had one in a 169. It's not a "shake" as much as it is a high frequency vibration.....the kind that makes you teeth "buzz".

169's pull like a Missouri mule, they have power and torque and will hang with any KT-17/Mag18 out there, but they also tend to be hard on small sheet metal parts (hood hinges are one that comes to mind) due to the high Hz vibrations at WOT.

I PASSED a 1450 pulling a 10" plow with my 169 pulling a 12" plow, uphill, at Travis's one year....litterally pulled out of the furrow and passed him....and I know the other operator (a friend) was FLOGGING the 1450 to try and stay ahead!!!!

 

[till]

I know I am late in getting these up, but here they go anyway.
My winter ready shots.

I have not had traction problems with 6X12's CalCL fill with one set of weights.

 

[fmorski]

16 HP Shakes...Had an old timer tell me at the Cub-a-rama in Fredericktown Mo that one of the reasons they shake is that they probably are rebuilt and that the replacement piston is heavier than the original Kohler unit. He sold and rebuilt a lot of Cubs and he said that the 16hp did not shake when new, but after it was rebuilt and had a different piston installed, it would shake.
The 12 HP is a real smooth engine, the 14hp is a little more prone to some shaking, but again the piston is probably why.

Have not had the opportunity to test his theory yet. Being an old Nitro Fuel Engine Builder and racer, it does make some sense though..

Course it is amplified when the ISO mounts begin to wear out. My 169 does not shake nearly as much as my 3 1650's.

 

[mbounds]

Frank M: You may have hit the nail on the head. My 1650 has an original engine - not a rebuild (yet). I'll remember about that piston weight.
Thanks

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[speterson]

I'm hoping you guys can help me out with a starter generator question. I'm thinking of using an extra s/g to start the tiller that I'm building for my 149. The problem is that I don't want it to charge my tractor battery (or anything for that matter) while the tiller is running. I do want to power the s/g from the tractor battery when starting. Can I just run leads from the battery to the starter with a switch to power it on and once the engine is running just disconect the switch (to battery) and leave the s/g spinning with the tiller? Any other suggestions or ideas for making this work? Thanks.

 

[enei]

Hey Guys,

What does the ISO bar modification do?

 

[digger]

Eric N.
http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html

 

[bbowman]

A quick question on my 1650.Removed the rear trans. plate,and after draining out old fluid I found a gel like substance covering most of the housing.Is this contaminated Hy-Tran that has congealed, or cosmolean from the factory?Any thoughts?Thanks,Bob.

 

[rchristensen]

Frank M. When I repowered my 1450 with a 16 hp it was a brand new engine and it shook as much as any I have seen.

 

[dandre]

Shane, you can use a switch or a solenoid to energize the S/G on the tiller. If you use a switch, you will need something heavy enough to carry the current. A solenoid like the start solenoid on your cub would be better. Also, since it will be farther away from the battery, a heavier wire will be needed, maybe 2 or 4 gage. And you will need a ground cable between the tiller and tractor. The S/G will act like a motor while the switch or solenoid is closed and just free wheel when the switch or solenoid is open. If you use a switch, something like this will work and the price is right. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92688

 

[sblunier]

Frank, Richard,

The 16hp I was talking about in my previous post was a rebuild (fresh), but it had been ballanced (crank, flywheel, rod, piston) by a professional pulling engine builder.

I'm with Richard, there is a trade off for power and torque in a single cylinder Kohler, and that is smoothness. Like I said before, my 169 would eat hood hinges, but it would pull and lug like a mule......trade-off....

 

[sblunier]

BTW, have I ever mentioned how much I love my loader????

The manure fork makes a great pallet fork, especially for moving heavy attachments like a 42" thrower. Changed the oil in the QA42-A gear box and I'm waiting on a belt and pulley to convert it over to 82 series "twin power". Winter project is putting back together a second 782 w/dual hyd., hopefully done in time to run this thrower.