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Archive through November 04, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kduffy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
146
displayname
Kevin Duffy
GRRRR....thats the archive bug twice this week with pictures, lets try it again.


Glen,

A QL with the side panels and a good muffler, good iso's, good muffler box, etc. is pretty quiet. As soon as I got my 1650 all back how it is supposed to be, it is much quieter, than...gasp...my green colored tractor with a 14 horse kohler
bottom.gif
. I know, i'll turn my cub collector member card in at the next meeting
clappy.gif
.

I am not sure what is wrong with that picture, but i've been looking at it on and off for a while now and I know something isn't right, i just cant tell what. The decals on the side panels are supposed to be there, that I do know.
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43879.jpg
 
Does anyone know the Point gap for the 14 h.p. K321A? Also, is there any way to test the coil and condenser? I can't seem to be getting any spark on my friend's 149 and I can't figure out why.

Thanks,
Dan
 
Points should be .020, and you can check the points by detaching the wire and taking a VOM and seeing if the resistance of the points when they are closed (should be zero ohms or close to it). Once that is checked, you can check the coil by watching the spark plug, making sure the threaded part of the plug is touching ground while cranking over the engine. If still no spark, try swapping the high-voltage wire. If this does not work, check to make sure you have 12 volts coming from the ignition switch to the coil. If none of these procedures results in a spark, check the resistance of the coil, it should be about 10 ohms or so across the primary leads, a higher value for the secondary leads in the hundreds or thousands of ohms.
 
Charlie,

That tractor looks like it has one of the sun shade tops with cab parts fitted to it. The mounts going down to the front of the frame and the fringed top give that away. I didn't know they offered that option. Is this a proto attemp to get people to buy more of these or use up some left over cab parts?
 
Jason "H",
I'd say that picture shows just how useless having a dual tire set up on you tractor for plowing is. Notice how the landside of the tractor isn't touching the ground? In my opinion the only way duals work for plowing is;
1) Drop a few pound out of the inside dual
2) Have a slightly large diameter tire on the outside dual
3) Just the extra weight on the landside

Looks cool but...................

Just MHO, I'm sure I'll hear about this one!
 
Dan C:

To check your Ignition Coil..

43883.jpg


If you have a capacitor check, the condenser should read .20 to .30 MFD

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About a week ago, I asked for advise and comments about why my new 149 was loosing power when running under a load at full throttle-it missed and just would not run well until the load and rpm were reduced.

The points were good, but I replaced the push rod, which had a small worn ridge.
I found that the head bolts may not have been torqued quite right, they loosened up easily when I pulled the head and there was an oily (or gas) head bolt at one location.

The head and valves looked pretty good, although there was a thin coating of carbon that I cleaned up. I polished up the surfaces with a scotch-brite pad. The valves looked to have a shiny seating surface, so they looked to seal well. I cleaned the bolts, used a new head gasket and torqued down the head.
The carb looked clean, the shafts still fit well (not worn or loose). When I set the needles back to the recommended starting set points, I found they were somewhat off from this recommendation. I made the adjustments and added a new air filter.

It runs well now. I mowed the yard, chopping leaves. It ran well for about two hours. I think its fixed.

I think that the carburator and possibly the head gasket (comperssion) may have been the problem area. Anyway, we'll see how it runs from now on. BTW, it seems to be in pretty good shape otherwise. (It has severe Hydro creep issues, but thats another fix project). And thanks for the advise.
 
Charlie,
In response to your "what is wrong with this picture" question, Is is the "fringe" around the top of the snow cab fabric that makes it look like it should be a persian rug?? I hope my observation/guess is right. (I do wear glasses but I don't know if that helped)
 
Does anybody have the contact info for CCSpecialties?I don't see the brightly colored box at the top of the page anymore.Thanks,Bob.
 
It's kinda funny/sad that someone ask a question again about using a sleeve hitch and tiller gearbox plate together. The funny part is the same question was ask when I post the picture a few years ago.

The sad thing is the same party forgot what the ground was used before it was plowed. To refresh everyone's memory the ground in the picture was a pratice track for off road radio control trucks. The tracks I raced at were hard pack clay. My pratice track was the same way.

I've been plowing with Cub Cadets for 36 years. I have tried 6 X 12, single 23 X 8.50s, 23 X 10.50s, 26 X 12.00s, and dual 8.50s wide tires on the land side-single 8.50s on the furrow side on my Cub Cadet. The best all around tire set up was the dual 8.50s on the land side for me. I get better traction with the 8.50s/dual wheel set up.

As for the "cool factor"- Single wide tires look better than the set up I used.

Tom H.-I don't know and don't care what tires you run on the back of your Cub. Please show respect for the set up I use as I will show you respect to you and your set up.
 
Hi all. Been awhile between posts. Thanks for signing me back up Charlie.

43893.jpg
 
how do I go about reomoving the press fitted pully on the front of the starter generator w/o bending it
 
Robert F:

The pulley is secured by a washer and nut with a key in the shaft. See item #39 from the Parts Manual TC-113 - page H9. The pulley is NOT pressed onto the shaft. You may need to "gentle nudge" it, but it will come off.
43912.jpg
 
Dale "M",
Fisrt of all I don't want to get into a verbal p-----g match with anyone. At the bottom of my post I stated MHO, and it's just that MY HUMBLE <u>OPINION!</u> As far as my time "in the dirt", I've been around the block a few times too, but I'm not even going there!

Now that that is outta' the way, here's how I see it.

I don't equate seeing daylight under a tire as being good traction. Using a dual tire setup is great on a full sized tractor, but when you are using a tractor with a tread of 36" in a 10" furrow it a different ballgame than a 8' - 10' tread in a 10" furrow.

I <u>DO</u> think that a dual tire set up would be a good thing <u>if</u> you had two different tire sizes so that <u>both</u> tires would be hitting the ground.

Onc again JMHO!!
 
I dunno, maybe the forum needs a good pissing contest. I don't think there has really been one since the Great Firewall was built between Tennesee and Kentucky.

FWIW, JMHO, etc.
 
Charlie,
The Sauer Danfoss site doesn't seem to friendly for the little guy like me. Those pub #s you gave are not listed there, well I can't find them. From the info I find, It looks like they would have to be order from your "local supplier" or something like that.
I have always assumed that the Hydros were a 70U series which might be the manual listed on the site as BDU-10L. Is this in the ball park at all?
 

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