I was originally thinking I wanted a rear blade for the 123 vs a front blade. I had a front blade on ot tractor at my cabin and wasn't that impressed by it. The 123 is taking the place of the ot. Any thought on which would be a better choice
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Archive through November 03, 2014
- Thread starter drglinski
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snicklas
Well-known member
Doug, it depends on what you are planning on doing with it.
If you are moving snow, or pushing around gravel for a driveway, or dirt to roughly fill something in, the front blade will be fine.
If you are wanting more control of what your are moving, then a rear blade has more "finesse"..
I have moved snow for 30+ years on a 149 and now 1450 with a front blade. It works very well for this task. I have found with my weight in the seat (~350 lbs) turf tires and 4 link chains and the right amount of speed, (see Blunier Ramming Speed) I can push snow into a bank as deep as the hood...... I have also spread gravel on more than one driveway with the 149 and it works well. Think of the front blade as if you were using a bulldozer. If I were trying to do finish landscaping in which level and grade was important, I would try and find a rear blade. The snow blades are much more common than the rear blades. There are a couple of options for rears..... but, in the 40 years I have been around Cubs, we now have 4 42" snow blades, one that is hydro angle. I have never seen a rear blade.... I know they make them, I have just never seen one in person.
If you are moving snow, or pushing around gravel for a driveway, or dirt to roughly fill something in, the front blade will be fine.
If you are wanting more control of what your are moving, then a rear blade has more "finesse"..
I have moved snow for 30+ years on a 149 and now 1450 with a front blade. It works very well for this task. I have found with my weight in the seat (~350 lbs) turf tires and 4 link chains and the right amount of speed, (see Blunier Ramming Speed) I can push snow into a bank as deep as the hood...... I have also spread gravel on more than one driveway with the 149 and it works well. Think of the front blade as if you were using a bulldozer. If I were trying to do finish landscaping in which level and grade was important, I would try and find a rear blade. The snow blades are much more common than the rear blades. There are a couple of options for rears..... but, in the 40 years I have been around Cubs, we now have 4 42" snow blades, one that is hydro angle. I have never seen a rear blade.... I know they make them, I have just never seen one in person.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Doug - Scott's got it right on - there's never a better sight than hitting a snow bank at Ramming Speed with deep powder snow - it's a sight to behold!!
I do have a variance in opinion on the best landscaping blade however. For moving large amounts of soil, a front blade is most convenient but when it comes to leveling and contouring, a mid ( belly mount ) will give you the smoothest results because the vertical blade action when grading is only 1/2 the vertical movement of the front or rear wheels. Any dips in the ground tend to get magnified much more by a front or rear blade, which makes you "chase the blade" all the time.....
I do have a variance in opinion on the best landscaping blade however. For moving large amounts of soil, a front blade is most convenient but when it comes to leveling and contouring, a mid ( belly mount ) will give you the smoothest results because the vertical blade action when grading is only 1/2 the vertical movement of the front or rear wheels. Any dips in the ground tend to get magnified much more by a front or rear blade, which makes you "chase the blade" all the time.....
Hey Guys
I have a question. What type of spark plug are you guys running these days? I was running Autolite 216 in all the Cubs but have had a rash of bad plugs. New plugs too? Just wondering what everyone else is using and if anyone else has had this problem.
I have a question. What type of spark plug are you guys running these days? I was running Autolite 216 in all the Cubs but have had a rash of bad plugs. New plugs too? Just wondering what everyone else is using and if anyone else has had this problem.
Scott, the blade would be used for smoothing out the driveway, pushing loose and not so loose dirt, piles of leaves into the woods, brush into the burn pile.
I agree that there aren't many cub back blades. I was thinking I would modify something or if I was way lucky score gannon.
I agree that there aren't many cub back blades. I was thinking I would modify something or if I was way lucky score gannon.
GERRY - You are correct, a belly blade is the BEST tool for getting a smooth graded surface. Where do the blades on road graders mount? 'Nuf said!
I've used my home-made belly blade for MANY projects where a smooth final grade was needed. With a little work on the technique, I've used it to level foot deep black fill dirt, windrows dumped from my cart and a wheel barrow.
But for pushing snow on some sort of hard surface, preferably blacktop or concrete, a front blade is the right tool for the job. Rear blade... not so much. Unless you like turning around constantly.
I've used my home-made belly blade for MANY projects where a smooth final grade was needed. With a little work on the technique, I've used it to level foot deep black fill dirt, windrows dumped from my cart and a wheel barrow.
But for pushing snow on some sort of hard surface, preferably blacktop or concrete, a front blade is the right tool for the job. Rear blade... not so much. Unless you like turning around constantly.
snicklas
Well-known member
Doug,
I would say with that list, the front blade will work just fine. I have done the same as your list with the front blade and it has served me well. One trick I have used in trying to level something, once you have it spread out, put the blade down and go backwards over what you are trying to level. The blade seems to "float and spread" better that way. If you are moving forward, it wants to dig in and cut, not spread.
I would say give it a try, and if you don't like the results, find a rear or mid blade, and sell the front one. I think you will find the front one will surprise you. One thing to keep in mind, the Cubs are heavy for their size. The will push a surprising amount, your main enemy will be traction. Depending on what OT you had, I would say a 123 would be a lot heavier than anything made after the mid 90's. I know with my 1450, me, winter gear, and chains, I am over 1000 lbs. You can push a lot with that kind of oomph......
I would say with that list, the front blade will work just fine. I have done the same as your list with the front blade and it has served me well. One trick I have used in trying to level something, once you have it spread out, put the blade down and go backwards over what you are trying to level. The blade seems to "float and spread" better that way. If you are moving forward, it wants to dig in and cut, not spread.
I would say give it a try, and if you don't like the results, find a rear or mid blade, and sell the front one. I think you will find the front one will surprise you. One thing to keep in mind, the Cubs are heavy for their size. The will push a surprising amount, your main enemy will be traction. Depending on what OT you had, I would say a 123 would be a lot heavier than anything made after the mid 90's. I know with my 1450, me, winter gear, and chains, I am over 1000 lbs. You can push a lot with that kind of oomph......
A grader blade would be the best for the smoothest finish and of coarse the cool factor can't be beat. But not for moving piles of stuff.
I won't be hitting any snow banks at ramming speed, we don't usually get much snow here. If we do than the thing that crawls gets the job. There's nothing like steel grouser to bite through ice and snow.
The ot machine was from the late 60's, but not as heavy as a cub cadet, it was equipped with loaded tires, 2 link chains and 50lbs of weights year round. The 123 seems to have almost as much traction with out the added weight. But I will be adding the weight and chain if I ever get the time.
I won't be hitting any snow banks at ramming speed, we don't usually get much snow here. If we do than the thing that crawls gets the job. There's nothing like steel grouser to bite through ice and snow.
The ot machine was from the late 60's, but not as heavy as a cub cadet, it was equipped with loaded tires, 2 link chains and 50lbs of weights year round. The 123 seems to have almost as much traction with out the added weight. But I will be adding the weight and chain if I ever get the time.
Matt,
I still like the Champion H-10c. I have never had a problem with any Champion plug that I have used, either in my K-301, or off-topic small engines or outboards. Kohler recommends it.
It seems to me that the H-10c is readily available and is half the cost of other brands.
I still like the Champion H-10c. I have never had a problem with any Champion plug that I have used, either in my K-301, or off-topic small engines or outboards. Kohler recommends it.
It seems to me that the H-10c is readily available and is half the cost of other brands.
Matt,
I have been runing 216's in some of my tractors for quite a while with no issues. Like you said, must have had a bad set of plugs. Every manufacturer releases bad plugs. I've had bad Autolites and Champions. I personally don't think they make spark plugs as good as they used to be.
I have been runing 216's in some of my tractors for quite a while with no issues. Like you said, must have had a bad set of plugs. Every manufacturer releases bad plugs. I've had bad Autolites and Champions. I personally don't think they make spark plugs as good as they used to be.
