Archive through May 29, 2012

[jchamberlin]

Patrick James Fitzwater: What you have drawn looks to me like Item 11 in the diagram below:

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128ClutchParts
128Clutch4Patrick_James_Fitzwater.htm (12.4 k)</td></tr></table></center>

Judging from the parts listing, it is still available from the manufacturer, and even though the part may not be listed on all of our sponsor's web sites, I'm sure they could get it for you at a good price, it doesn't seem to be all that expensive; especially when compared to what it would take to make a replacement.

Bottom line: You could get your clutch working for less than $50.00.

 

[mgonitzke]

Patrick-

You'll be able to straighten it easily, and unless the threads are really badly mangled, you should be able to straighten them out by running a die over them.

 

[kide]

Ref the stuck steering wheel - I've used a "muffler gun" (air impact tool) to loosen a wheel - I removed the original nut and put one on that was filled to create a cap (IIRC it may have been two nuts welded together with the top one filled) Any way the point was to protect the steering column shaft threads while buzzing it with the gun with just a blunt impact tip in it while putting up pressure on the wheel. I've used this vibration process on several different stuck parts - I was shown the trick several years ago by by neighbor who was a truck mechanic. He had a big ol' heavy duty gun that he used to buzz the sides of tie rod ends - makes 'em fall apart.

(OT) - Don T - I'm paying $300.00 a year for full coverage on a 103 inch (1687 cc) Street Glide with Progressive. Must be my age (or the fact that when they asked if I had taken a MSF course I told them "no, just 52 years of riding") LOL.

 

[fbecht]

I am looking for the size of the drive belt (between the gear box and the large pully) on a 1A tiller. Any information would be great, Thanks-- Frank

 

[pbell]

Good luck Steve........

Shawn,
The paint color on your 100 is nothing special, it's just something a previous owner did. The 100 was originally IH Federal yellow with the hood, wheels, seat pan, and grill mesh IH 901 white.

 

[kide]

Frank B. : Check the CubFAQs chart on belts - I think what you are looking for is here on page 4 of the charts.

 

[fbecht]

Gerry-- I had checked those charts, I believe the belts listed are used from the PTO to the angle gear drive, I need the one from the angle drive to the tiller pully---- Thanks for the reply---

 

[jharvey]

Frank
I believe 1/2"X53" is what you need.
JH

 

[proessler]

Frank in CCParts Lookup there are 2 belts listed under Chain drive & related parts category depending on your model tiller. for # 2 tiller= 62235C1. For #1 tiller =487044R1 ....Check out <font color="ff0000">Parts Lookup</font> above under Attachments, then to Tiller to verify please. If I can find it, I know anyone can!

 

[pfitzwater]

So it is suppose to be straight then. OK, yeah I hope this is the final stretch to my clutch problems. It has been almost two months now and it is still out of commission. Do the dies run the same with the nuts size and pitch? I.E. 3/8-24 nut so find a die with 3/8-24?

Now spring # 17, for that there should only be one spring correct? I can't remember but the spring goes into the second hole in the rod? Where it attaches to the frame there are two holes so I was wondering if there is a second spring missing.

 

[rkelm]

Hello, I am new to the site. I have a 127 Hydro and need to know if I need a pin or a roll pin for the coupling hub, it came with roll pin and I have been shearing them, what is correct? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

 

[stanner]

Rodney K,

Welcome to the site... Our sponsors above have the correct pin you need..

http://ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html

Look back a few days, or use the search... This topic was recently discussed on the forum..

 

[sblunier]

Tom,

 

[fbecht]

Thanks to all for the help----- Frank

 

[wshytle]

Pretty busy day here. I got the 1650 and pulled the 129 back to the shop from the garden where the flywheel screen started acting up. The screen was fine (luckily) and was just missing two of the four little screws. I pulled the engine, fixed the screen, replaced the engine, set the tractor up with a Brinly harrow and got the entire garden harrowed before a good rain set in. When I got the harrow all set up it wouldn't lift and I found the casting pivot pin had slipped out. Once that was back in and secure I got to work.

The past thirty minutes I've been sitting on the front porch watching the rains. I got finished just in time. Now I can hear the grass growing and the sun is beginning to come back out. This Carolina weather....

 

[sblunier]

Tom,

Trying again.....

Sliding depth stop works the same for hyd. lift as for manual......but many are discarded and are no longer "in-service" on older tractors.....

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE - Something ELSE for Charlie to find & source for US. One suggestion I'd make though, make them out of 1/4" or 5/16" steel. The OEM ones on my manual lift tractors always bend up on both ends. I adjust them all the time.

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle
I never should have put a bagger on my grass cutter, Now the grass has to be real dry before I can cut it. It plugs up bad and often . We are getting just enough rain that I don`t get much time to mow it. I think all the fert and lime I applied this year was a mistake . The gas cut at 4 " needs to be mower every three days . Looked at a z turn again today .Nice to see your having so much fun Cubbing.

Gerry Ide

Glad to see Your back , and happy to have some wind in your face. I`am looking at selling a few Cubs and get me a Yamaha Stratoliner S Deluxe lol

 

[dtanner]

Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"

I got to know !! Is that a 100 with the optional hyd lift added???

 

[digger]

Denny F.
They are being made as I type.