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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Terry, when you posted, "Thought you guys might get a kick out of me digging out lilac roots", I think you meant,

"I would like to turn many of you green with envy as you watch me dig out my lilac roots."
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I've got a Mulberry bush in the back corner of my lot, an overgrown grape vine full of honey suckle and a big ditch beyond the fence that could all use a healthy dose of a backhoe like yours.

I really like your rig. It doesn't dwarf the tractor, but still gets the job done (or at least all the "job" I would want to throw at it). It would be worth buying a narrow frame to get an implement like that.
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The green in the thumb's up is the color of envy:
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A lot of good men and women died on the battle field so we could have the freedom to play with our Cubs. I always feel guilty on days we remember the fallen; that I'm not making the best use of the freedom they fought to preserve.

I wish we could make a world in which war is not necessary; in fact I see no reason that it is, and yet we keep "engaging" in it. Maybe someday, Peace will gain the moral imperative prescribed for War, as William James put it. Until then we let us celebrate the deeds of the fallen and remember their sacrifice. A prayer too, for those miamed and still living with the wounds, especially those who survived roadside bombs with loss of limb and/or brain damage.
 
Good Memorial Day. I much like the Heller Cartoon. Good thought.

44A Deck. Thanks for your help. The base of the grease fitting on the mower spindle is round. Not the screw in type. I found a wood kebob skewer and inserted it into the fitting and added a toothpick drop of degreaser. I got the fitting to open, but not perfectly. No matter, for the time being I got three levers of bearing grease in and it spins well with no sound worth considering as evil. I'll look for a different spindle. They are getting to be like hen's teeth and more expensive daily. For now I'm OK. I'll practice removing that fitting when the time comes, in the meantime Thanks. Oh, is it possible to post or tell me where to find the parts numbers page for the 44A?
 
Gary, click on the cub cadet parts look up at the top of the page and enter 44a in the search box and it will come right up. I like using that site to get an idea of how bad my wallet is going to get hit. it's also easier for my blood pressure to just give the person at the parts counter the part numbers i need insted of getting the deer in the headlights look. (remember what memorial day is for indeed)
 
Well, I finally got my sleeve hitch together on my 982. (yep, its a sleeve hitch and not 3pth) For being home made, I think it turned out okay for the first one. Steel cost me $30.00 and I owe the old man a package of welding rods for doing the welding on it. It isn't perfect, but I am very happy with it for the first one. I will likely make the other one for the 782 when the time comes. I was really debating on ordering one from xtrememotorworks - but this was cheaper for now. I still need to paint it yet but I did try it out today with the 12" Brinly plow I bought last fall. Its been collecting dust since I bought it waiting on a sleeve hitch to pull it.
 
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It is far from perfect....but it will do. The next time....DO NOT use 1-1/2" steel for the straps. Or at least reposition the hole in the lower U bracket so it will not bump the implement when attached. I am thinking I might shorten the upper round stock to bring the straps closer to the tractor. But for now a little grinding on the back side of the straps works!
 
Mike-

Looking good! If I were you, I would shorten that 1" pin that goes in the casting...that is awfully long, and you may be liable to break the casting if an abnormally high load is encountered.
 
Mike, nice job. Nothing wrong with saving a few bucks and doing it yourself.

Speaking of loaders and backhoes, every once in a while there has to be a failure. I was lifting a chevy 350 (again) onto the shelf and noticed that my front tires were creeping further to the the rear of the tractor. The bracket that holds the axle under the frame done did give out. So off to the drawing board. I made a new bracket out of .25 steel instead of the regular .128 steel that the factory one was made out of. Then I reinforced it with another .25 piece of steel on the other side. That gives the bolt a .50" thick bearing surface on each side. Once the old part is ground off, you bolt the new one in place and just reweld. Here are some pics of it.

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Of course if anyone needs one of these to do the same repair, we have them available.

Aaron - Xtreme Motorworks
 
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I'm sure most knew, but I didn't!
Noticed this I.H. stamp on a set of wheel weight bolts today.
ROD
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I am thinking that too Matt. I was going with the idea that the lift straps need to be straight up and down (plumb), and due to the gear box for the tiller - I needed it longer. But your right, I looked at it againt his morning and it is too long, think I will cut about 1-1/2" off it or so. Maybe try 1" and go from there? I will need to prime and paint it this week so it will look better. I picked up the paint on Saturday at my local IH dealer.

Sorry Aaron, I just couldn't swing the money and the shipping yet to buy yours. Trust me, I will be sending some money your way in the future when I get to my 782. I need some brackets and some new foot plates too.

I guess the plowing job didn't come out too bad - I looked at it this morning while having coffee before work. It will do for the first time.
 
Kohler Engine Analysis Kit?

In the Kohler K series engine Service Manual, they show an "engine analysis kit." Does anyone know where/how to obtain one and how much it might cost? I did some basic Google searches and found nothing...

Thanks,

-Calvin
 
Hi folks, I'm new here and look forward to joining the conversation. Been messing around with my tractor for years. Worked on them when they were new (and I was in high school) and have had the current machine for 26 years. Model 107. I've got a slight problem with it now - didn't see anything in the FAQ (maybe it's there but I just didn't see it), nor is there anything specific in the service manual. The tractor won't start because the starter won't kick in. It's either the ignition switch (which I replaced about 10 years ago) or it's the neutral switch connected to the brake pedal. I'm thinking it's the latter. I made the mistake of leaving the pedal in the locked (braking) position when I put it up for the winter, and now the pedal is stuck in that position. Kinda limp. It will return to normal operating position, but if there is a spring involved, it's shot. First question: where is the neutral switch located? I'm thinking I can test it by bypassing the switch and seeing if it starts. As soon as I have a few minutes, I'll pull the fender/seat off, but I'm not sure I'm going to find the switch there... Appreciate your input! Al C.
 
Hi Folks,
I'm battling starting problems on my 1650. I'm getting weak or no spark. Does anyone have a part number for a coil that I can use at a local auto parts store like Napa?
Thanks, David
 
my 127 start/generator is not charging. Does anyone know of a place that can fix in the Rockford IL general area? It was supposedly rebuilt last fall, but not charging and when measuring across A and F terminal reads a direct short.
 
Any Cub cadet collectors located in the SE Conecticut/RI region? I'm located in Charlestown, RI and am always interested in meeting others with a common interest...
 

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