• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through May 29, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Don B:
Please don't put your six (6) year old son at risk mowing solo. This is a bad practice on a NEW mower but it is especially dangerous on a 30+ year old tractor with essentially no safety interlocks tied to the operation of the tractor.
Someday your son will understand why you keep him a safe distance while you're mowing. He'd never understand why you let him run it at this age if he sustained a permanent injury (or worse).
Common sense dictates he shouldn't be operating this tractor with engine powered equipment working. PLEASE don't do this to your son.
Keith
 
I gotta agree with Keith on this one...driving the tractor around is one thing, but mowing is another.
 
Calvin,
i can't go lock to lock while standing still with 400+ lbs in the bucket, but with 4 ply tires / tubes up front and a few extra PSI once you get underway it's not too bad. of course, power steering would make things much easier.
 
You guys in Iowa need to keep your water up there. I seem to remember 1993 when the great flood started up your way and ended up down here washing away one of my clients houses on a sunday morning.

Need to get to some of my cubs but can't as the road and area round barn is so flooded and soft I can't get the trailer in to load them.

Tornado went through the farm Sunday evening at 6:20 and left a tree on my dad's house. Did not bother any of the cubs near the barn but did remove most of one woods and half of the trees in the yard. Traveled for 30 miles after starting in out bottom woods.

Figured I would be minus some cub parts when dad called and let me know what had happened. Spend Monday sawing, pulling and chopping limbs and trees and taking inventory of all the cub parts.

Nothing missing.

The Baptisit camp 1/2 mile NE got hit really hard. Nearly every tree on their 80 acres is damaged or destroyed.

Weather guessers said straight line winds. Funny how straight line winds can strip all the limbs off a 60 ft tree and make it look like a toothpick or up rood 30" dia. trees completely and twist the pops of trees so the look like paint brushes.
 
Frank M. -

I remember being down in St. Louis in the '70s on vacation with my parents. Folks were telling us how the flooding covered the RR tracks running along the base of the Arch, actually covering the tunnel entrances.

Thunderstorm came thru as we got to the top of the Arch. Good place to be - NOT!

As we drove back to the motel, we were followed down the road by a tornado, spent a few hours at the sherrif's office hiding out.
 
For all of you interested in the cable laying plow I built for installing my dog fence here are some pictures.

The is the second revision, if I ever use it again or if you build your own it needs a colter installed at the leading edge of the plow. This would keep turf and grass from building up in the depth wheels.

http://mail.orbitform.com/images/akiszka/
 
Finally made it back home. You guys can keep that tornado crap!Missed them allbut will bring up the stress level a bit. When it rains it pours now has better meaning!
Thanks to Dave Kemp for the pit stop. That boy of his is really needing a toolbox of his oun. The cub collection is still safe. looks like he can take some more water.
 
Hey Fellers,
I took my k301 out of my 127 dynaplow and found that there was a hole in the crank case behind the generator. A smile-shaped piece about the width and length of a large thumb. Other than being depressed I am wondering if this could be welded or (I hazard to say) JB welded. This doesn't appear to be a structural part of the crankcase. It seems that it was broken before the rod broke. (You can see the crank with no rod attached through the crack). Or would a weld be a better alternative? I noticed that the engine only had 2 bolts fastening it to the frame and on was broken. Thanks K-ken for reminding me to check these attachment points for cracking. In lieu of having an actual pic I have this graphic representation. I will get a real pic soon.
19184.jpg
 
I agree with Keith on that one too....
I wasn't taught how to mow until I was 11 or 12.

Out of the four neighbors we have, two of them mow with their kids either on their lap or (worse) on the fender. I am a teenager now, and it shocks me to see that I have more common sense than some people three times my age.

<font size="-2">Okay, someone else can have my soapbox now...</font>
 
John-

Other people with more experience with engines may have something else to say, but in my opinion:

1. JB weld SUCKS on anything in contact with gas, oil, etc. <font size="-2">If you disagree, ask me about my 100's gas tank</font>

2. Just find yourself another bare block or engine. I don't think it's worth the trouble to try to repair that.
 
John-
The block probably got busted up from a piece of that rod as it flew around in there when it broke. While you probably could fix it with JB Weld or something, it's not going to be a permanent fix that way. Since you're going to have to take the time to tear it apart, get a good used block (from a sponsor above) and do it the right way.

As another option, if you've got the "coin" to just buy another running engine, you could then take your time to rebuild/part-out this one.

As far as mowing with little one's goes...
I won't even let my daughter play in the same yard when I'm mowing.

My .02...
 
****help***** 782 starter
long time reader first time poster. My newest member in the stable wont engage the starter into the flywheel(782). How do I remove the starter to fix or replace? do I have to remove the shroud around the flywheel and do i have to uncouple the motor?

thanks in advance
Brad
gosh I love this site, need more pictures though.
 
Brad good to see you post! Here's a photo for you. :eek:)
19187.jpg


On the starter, if it's at all like the starter on my AC620's Onan, I bet it's just sticky due to oil and dust. Give it a good spray of WD-40 or PB Blaster, that should free it up. Here's a link to Kohler, you can download a service manual on your Kohler engine.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on June 01, 2004)
 
Brad-
I've always sworn by the PB-Blaster product that's a spray teflon coating. It dries to a whitish film so it doesn't attract dirt/grass. Just pry the bendix open with a screwdriver, hose it down with some aerosol brake cleaner and after it dries give it a good dose of this product.
19190.jpg

I put it on my 1872's starter once when I first got it and it's been great ever since.
 
The reason for the long spring on later QL models was to ease the clutch/brake pedal pressure required to operate,as I recall. This was to satisfy the "new" class of operators who were not accustomed to operating tractors etc.
If you doubt me just try to imagine opening a screen door with a short spring....see how each coil has to seperate so much to reach the extended length?? With a long spring(more coils) each only needs to seperate slightly to accomplish the same work.
 
Art,that stuff is great on those sticky starters!! Excellent advice(as usual I might add)!!! Where did you buy your can of it??
 
Back
Top