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Archive through May 29, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I am going to look at a 149 with hydraulic lift. Is that lift fairly reliable? Is it rare, or did lots of them have it. I guess it uses the transmission to power the lift too. How much weight can / should these handle routinely? Does it help them to put a helper spring on them, or do they already have plenty of lift for a 12" plow? Thanks for any info.
 
DON B. - Actually Your Son is probably safer on the seat of the tractor sitting as You pictured Him than being anywhere else around the tractor if it's mowing. My Son was about 7 yrs old when He started running the 129 regularly with My supervision nearby from the 72. I'm sure there's several people my age on this forum who were doing field work (Like I was) by the time they were Your Son's age. The question should be if a young person is responsible enough at that age to handle the responsibility to safely operate the piece of equipment. In My Son's case when He was 7 or so He was responsible enough. Now at age 22 I don't think He is anymore but that's a different subject. As long as the person has respect for the equipment He should be fine. Only times My Son has had problems was when He was screwing around doing stuff He knew He shouldn't be.
 
Hello again. I finally have a pic ready. After a consultation with our campus mechanic (also a cub enthusiast) I've decided to get a new block. The hole is big enough to see that a piece of the inner skirt is broken also. He said he could (and would) weld it but the end price would be as much as a used block he might have. Thanks for your replies. I have been excited to get mowing with a deck I found recently. I guess things have their own way of rolling along. Did Bob Dylan write any thing about cub cadets?
\image {dead cadet}
 
Here's the pic.
19194.jpg
 
Could someone post the part no. for the fuel filter for a 782 Diesel, ih number or equivalent or both? Thanks Terry
 
Thanks Dennis, my son has been cutting the grass on my lap now for a few months, I would let him have full control with me there he certainly had respect for the power at his fingertips and did very well so when I asked him if he was ready to go it alone we went over the rules again. In the pic he is only going 1 mph & at about half throttle with me a couple of feet away. You can see the concentration on his face as he really wanted to do a good job which he did. I'll prob not encourage him to do it again as I would hate for something to go wrong but he sure made me proud.
 
I'm still haveing some carb probs & I'll be getting my manual in July when I go to IH event in Oregon but need some help now. There are 2 screws on carb 1 must be for mixture the other ? is there a proper way to adjust these. Ive played & played with them but somethings not rite at higher rpm & since I've replaced the float I still get weeping or flooding when turned off. I'm glad theres a shut off on my tank
TIA Don B- 1974 109 K241 10hp kohler
 
Don B. -

Well, in the meantime, you could always download the K-series manual from Kohler FOR FREE...

www.kohlerengines.com

Carb settings abound...

Charles Mc -

Ummmmm - 149's came with hydraulic lift as standard - guess what that does for rarity?
wink.gif


However, the wide frame hydraulic unit was probably one of the worst. I'd suggest you get it as cheaply as you can and give it to me to dispose of properly
lol.gif


Really, it's the same unit as in the Quiet Lines. How do you think we manage to make it thru Plow Day if it couldn't lift a plow?
 
Quiet Line question: can you remove and replace an electric PTO clutch without having to reset the air gap, or is that a required adjustment whenever you remove the PTO clutch? Never had one off before, but I think I'm about to, and I'd like to know what I'm getting into.
 
Kenny:
I do believe that you'll need to reset the air gap upon reinstallation.
Keith
 
Richard, thanks for posting those pedal return spring pictures again. I think I'd prefer the short one as well, but unfortunately my 1450 takes the long one. I spent a large part of one afternoon trying to get the spring installed, and haven't managed to stretch it quite far enough yet. I'm gonna have to come up with some kind of tool to do the job, any suggestions? I'm no weakling, but that spring sure had me buffaloed. Not much room to work in there, and it seems like no matter which angle you attack the problem from, something is always in the way of getting a good direct pull on it.
 
Thanks, Keith. I'm combining two 1000s to make one real good one; one has a real good engine but the sheet metal is very rusty and somewhat rough, the other looks pretty good but smokes like nothing else I've ever run. The PTO clutch on the good engine rubs, and the one on the bad engine works real well, far as I can tell, so I have to switch them around.
 
Kenny M.: I use a piece of starter rope and make a loop that will let me pull where there is more room. I use a hammer handle or screwdriver to pull the loop. Some times you need a second person to guide the spring end in the hole when you have stretched it near the hole. Cut the loop and the rope will pull from under the spring(if you pull the correct end).
 
I looked at the 149 - seems to me it has 2 big problems (along with a number of lesser ones). 1) it smokes and uses oil. Could this be rings, or does it need to be over-bored? 2) the hood hinge is in bad shape - how hard are they to replace? cjm
 
Jim D-
Thanks for the compliment. I get my PB Blaster products at Menards just because it's close to my house, but if you can't find it, you could always order it here...

PB Blaster
 
Charles,

Hood hinge is an EASY fix...unbolt old, reattach new.....most high hp wide frames will eat a hood hinge or two in their life-time, no biggie.

Engine----well, you have a early 70's vintage tractor with the factor engine in it,....... I'd sya she's a little tired from years of use. A freshly overhauled 14hp is a thing of power and bueaty......don't skipm and just slap in rings.

Hyd. lift.......wide frame hyd. lift is the supreme king of lifts...you will not need a spring assist and the hyd. lift will function reliably and consistantly FOREVER.

In short, a 149 is an EXCELLENT work tractor....very well equipped to do almost everything as-well-as or better than any other Cub Cadet out there....my favorite model for LOTS of reasons.
 
Kenny M.
Sometimes I use a piece of wire sort of like William suggested but more often than not when stretching springs I use a small vise grip clamped on one end and then I have more leverage or you can get a long screwdriver against the vise grip to get even more leverage.

On the PTO you really need the manual and follow the setup procedure any time you replace one. When you say the air gap are you talking about the .010 gap between the brake flange and the driven disc or the .060 - .090 inch gap between the driving hub and the driven disc? If your PTO is rubbing it could be a bad bearing or an adjustment out of spec. They are pretty rugged and normally only need to be cleaned up and follow the adjustment in the book.
 
Thanks, WM, I'll try that trick. I've got to get that spring on before I can even move the tractor around easily, much less start it and run it. As much aggravation as the 1450 has been so far, I hope it runs well. I haven't had any major (knock on wood) problems with it, but I bought it partially disassembled and all the parts weren't there, so it's been something of a scavenger hunt. Add to that the fact that I'm not real savvy on Quiet Lines (yet - I'm learning, with the help of some good on-line experts!), and it's been a pretty long haul to get it to the point where I'm almost ready to fire it up for the first time, when one final backordered part finally gets here. To say the least, it's been an adventure - but part of the fun of this hobby/addiction is hearing a non-runner come to life for the first time in several years.

Of course, with my luck, it'll be a smoker, or have a knock, or some such... I didn't tear it down, but I did check out the cylinder and valves when I installed a new head gasket, so I'm hoping for the best.
 
Jim D.
You got me thinking about the short and the long spring so I went out and tried them tonight. I couldn't really feel a diference so I got out my scale and checked. The Quietline old style short spring runs about 4 to 5 pounds up to the point where the brake is applied. The Quietline new style with the long spring runs about 3 to 4 pounds up to the same point. Then I checked the 782 which has the long spring and it was 5 to 6 pounds up to the point where the brake is applied. Me thinks maybe IH was blowing smoke and was really trying to save some $$$.
 

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