Archive through May 28, 2008

[kmcconaughey]

Art, more progress.

The S/G for the Killer Kohler.

A couple of the steering column for the Original.

 

[dhassler]

Hey guys, I'll be replacing my headgasket on my 100 (K241a) this weekend, it seems to be leaking oil a little bit around the head. Now this will be the first time I ever replaced a headgasket, what do I need to know ? I already searched the archives for the torque specs (25-30 ft.lbs) and found the bolt pattern for the head. Is there anything I need to know about the replacement ? Do I simply just remove the head and gasket and clean the area up and replace the steal gasket without using any kind of gasket sealant ? Do I need to remove the engine from the frame or can I do the repair with the engine still in the frame ?

 

[stanner]

Dave...

be sure to check both the block deck and head for straightness... The guys here also hone, with sandpaper on glass, the head to ensure it's flatness and finish... There are pictures in here somewhere that shows this process, but I have a high level of confidence that the keeper of the photos will chime in...

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-

<font size="-2">Somebody needs to make an animation of a guy falling over.....</font>

 

[tsdeese]

hey guys the exhaust valve on my k161 is stuck open any ideas on how to free it up?

 

[dhassler]

Hopefully this can all be done without removing the engine from the frame.

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[dhassler]

Thanks Guys, looks pretty easy. I'll be sure and take a few pics of the replacement procedure.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dave, you should not have to remove the engine from the frame. If you do not have a piece of plate glass (regular window glass is usually kind of wavy, it is after all a liquid) you could also use a table saw, jointer, band saw or other REALLY flat surface. If the head is slightly warped you can sand it flat by laying a piece of sandpaper on the flat surface as Scott mentioned, not sure what grit is best to level it but I would think you would want to finish it up with 220. I'm sure someone will correct me or add to what I wrote.

 

[rneubauer]

IMHO, I made an improvement to the cub this weekend. changed out the wheel bolts for a set of studs. Makes changing the rear tires alot easier not having to hold the tire, while aligning the bolt holes and screwing in the bolt!
Especially if one has filled tires!

Here is the finished product

I used grade 8 bolts, and they were 1.5" long. Put a lockwasher on the backside, along with some loctite blue to prevent them from spinning while tightening the acorn nuts. Total investment was 7 bucks at one of those "Mom & Pop" autoparts stores.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG, ART - Local Simplicity/Kubota and Polaris/Victory M/C dealer is going out of business. Last winter some retired fellow traded a 23 HP Honda garden tractor will a boat-load of attachments for a Kubota with cab/heater & A/C to push snow. Everything sold except the Pronovost 3000# cap. tandem axle hyd. dump trailer. The "KING KUTTER" shown in Northern's catalog looks almost identicle. I've been wanting to build something similar but couldn't justify the cost of the steel for the last 5-6 years. I bought this trailer for about what the steel to build it would cost at My local source. Box is 50" x 70" with 16-18" tall sides, tailgate is like a dumptruck, pivots from top or bottom. Walking tandems with 18-8.50 X 8 tires. Just the right size to pull with the 982. But I'm sure it'll spend time behind the 70, 72, Super H, & M also

 

[stanner]

Tim..
other than pulling the head and doing the whack-a-valve thing, you may want to remove the valve-spring access cover (if there is one on a k161) on the side under the carb, and pry it down... HTH

 

[bcorn]

Rob N: did that to my 1000 makes going from turf tires to dirt tires a whole lot easier.

The 1000 developed a problem of not wanting to start so I changed the soleniod didn't fix it so digging deeper I found the key switch and wiring plug in melted

Got a new switch from 1 of our venders and the wiring harness is being addressed by myself.

Thats twice a key switch has shorted it ain't happening again.

Pops

 

[rrschmitt]

Todd H,

Yes you have 42" deck from the serial/model number you provided. The 38" decks typically did not come with the rear gage wheels but you could add them as an option through parts if desired. They were located under the tractor on the 38 deck as they would interfere with the rear tires if mounted outside like your 42" deck.

Now putting a 42" deck on a 682 could be more of a challenge as they were long out of production by the time the 82 series came along. The 82 series had a choice of a 38C, 44C and 50C mower deck models. To put a 42" deck on you will need the correct center pulley to accomodate a 5/8" wide belt, a straight deck hanger assembly and a 82 series mule drive with straight idler tension arms. If you look at the 38C deck mounting hardware in the parts look up, that will give you an idea of what you need.

 

[kide]

Tim Deese:
If it was a running engine that has just set for a while, it may have stopped with the exhaust valve open and hung up on either a slight coat of rust or even some carbon/oil gum.. Before taking the head off, try soaking it through the plug hole for a day or two with a good penetrating oil ( I'd try Seam Foam) and then see if you can get a small (bent ) screwdriver in the plug hole, get on top of the valve and push it down, to free it up (GENTLY). I've got an old Tecumsah 12 horse on a Generac genset that I had to do that to - PO didn't use MMO in it - we started that drill afterwards.. I hate pulling a good, sealed head off unless forced to.

 

[digger]

Lets see if this stirs anything up today.

 

[kfreeman]

Ron Schmitt,

I looked at the rockshaft. With the lift handle in the full up position the lift arms are each 1" away from the frame cross member. It would require about 10 deg more rotation to reach the cross member. I looked at the roll pins. Ran stiff wires, shined a light through them. They appear to be straight, round and undamaged throughout their length. I did start soaking them with penetrating oil.

You said the arms should be close to the cross member. Mine are not, but yet the roll pins appear OK. I do not see any other adjustments. Am I missing something here? Thanks!

 

[digger]

Anyone care to take a guess?

 

[digger]

Ever need to move your ball hitch trailer or wagon and not want to remove your sleeve hitch adapter?

 

[lbuttke]

Charlie.

A fuel torbulizer ?

Sleeveh hitch thingy, I built my own, not as pretty as that one though.