Archive through May 27, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

glippert

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2006
Messages
1,223
Location
Olivia, MN
displayname
Greg Lippert
Man, that archive bug bit me! Here's the decal that I placed on the tunnel cover, by the hydro release lever.
152357.jpg



And, here's the one I have left. Did I put the wrong one on?
152358.jpg
 
It's quiet here tonight, so I'll bore you with a few before and after pics of my 1250 refurb:

Coil Mount & Tin Before:
152366.jpg


Coil Mount & Tin After:
152367.jpg


Plug Wire Area Before:
152368.jpg


Plug Wire Area After:
152369.jpg


Right Side Before:
152370.jpg


Right Side After:
152371.jpg
 
Hello everyone. I have about a dozen cub cadets, most narrow frame, but I do have 3 quietline tractors. I have a 1250 (my first ever cub) which has always run great. I use it now for snowblowing only. I also have a 1450 which I restored last year. I recently purchased a 1000 at a garage sale for 200. It is in great shape but needs some clutch work. The 1450 and this 1000 both have vibration issues and I wanted to ask about the motor mounts on these tractors. I seen some solid motor mounts listed on ebay. Are these supposed to be better than the rubber ones for vibration? When I got the 1450 two of the engine mount bolts were missing and the other two were loose. The rubber mounts seemed to be in decent shape so I reinstalled them. The drive shaft flange was pretty wore and I replaced that and it did lessen the vibration, but I still think it vibrates too much.

I would appreciate any advice or suggestions about these motor mounts and the vibration in these two tractors.

Thanks,
Earl
 
Hello All,
Finishing the PF Engineering spindle upgrade and I wanted to remove the front axle on my 149 for repaint and have a question. Is there an easy way to remove the 3/4" axle pin toward the front? I hope I don't have to pull the engine to take it out toward the rear. Tried doing a search and looked through the FAQ's for an answer to this one. I apologize if this answer is posted somewhere else already.
Thanks, Mark
 
Earl W - I'm no expert on the quietlines, but I do have a 1250 and a 1450. When I got the 1250 the rubber mounts were shot, and I toyed with the idea of using the solid mounts, but ultimately went with the replacement rubber mounts, along with the engine mounting rail modification (see Richard Christensen's excellent instructions in the FAQS/Cubfaqs, #23 http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html. There is some vibration at lower engine speeds, but it pretty much goes away at full throttle. This was my first quietline, so I have nothing to compare it to but my 782. The 1450 I just got also has bad mounts, especially the bottom ones. I'm again thinking about trying the solid mounts, as a comparison. I don't know who's selling the solid mounts on ebay, but you can go directly to Brian Miller's website (http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1frame.htm) and buy them from the guy who makes 'em. I emailed him with some questions a while back - I'll forward that email and his reply to you if you'd like. But if you really want to minimize vibration, the rubber ISO mounts will be the better option. Solid mounts were designed primarily for "pulling" tractors.
 
Greg, yes you have the wrong decal on the tunnel cover. That 1250 looks awesome!
 
Richard B., nice progress on your 102!
happy.gif
Before you fully bolt those foot rest back on, you should paint them the proper black (Unless you prefer them yellow which is fine, it's just not the original color.) If you go to an Ace Hardware and get a can of Ace Black Epoxy Appliance Paint, it does a good job on the foot rests.

152377.jpg


Lip, nice job on the 1250! (BTW,
shhh.gif
my Original's has a 10 foot paint job... it just looks better in the photos.) In your post the top decal would be for those 1250s (or the 1450 or 1650) equipped with auto unloading valves, your's has the release lever so it should use the lower decal with the "Release" and "Drive" positions.

Photos below of Chris Bennett's 1650 with release lever and his 1450 with auto unloading valves.

152378.jpg


152379.jpg
 
Hi Folks,
This is my first post after lurking around a while to get to know Cubs. I apologize for the simple questions I'm going to ask, but my search through the archives hasn't answered my questions . . . so I hope the sage advice of you folks can lead me in the right direction.

I'm looking to buy a 14 or 16 hp (149, 169, 1450, 1650, or an *82 series, perhaps a SGT) with at least a 44 or 50" deck but am confused by the numbers (i.e., 44, 44A, 44C). What is the difference and which one would be a better choice? I'm looking at heavy mowing usage--at least 2 ac, sometimes 4 ac. Any particular issues with these decks? (My Wheelhorse deck cracked at the center spindle, like many WH decks).

I'm also looking to outfit the tractor with a rototiller, and I know nothing about them. Any adivice on what to look for here, including the 3 pt hitch system?

Third, I know that Onans on Wheelhorses tended to be sensitive to heat, such as if the cooling fins got clogged with grass. How do the Onans fare in the enclosed engine compartments of the 82 series tractors?

And last, any general tire-kicking advice regarding what to look for in an old Cub?

(PS. I love my Wheelhorse and may be thrown out of the WH club, but I really think a Cub may be the next choice for me).

Thanks,
Jeff
 
Jeff Ives,

Here is my bias opinion. Look for a 149 or a 169. These tractors will do what you want and need. There are plenty of parts, attachments and goodies for these.

If you go for anything with side covers all of of a sudden you inherit motor mount issues, drive shaft issues, if it has an electric clutch more issues, a liquid cooled engine has more parts and therefore more possible points of failure and more maintenance. You will also have different electrics which are by no means superior to the simple starter/generator with a mechanical regulator.

Like I said .. I'm biased. The above is only part of the reason. Get a real tractor. Get an IH Cub Cadet, you will never regret it.
 
JEFF - Welcome to the forum. I can answer a couple of Your questions. The only ONAN engine IH used was the 19.9 HP in the 982's & very early 2072's. The engines actually stay cooler & cleaner with the side panels installed. IH mostly used Kohler power, K-series cast iron single cyl. and the KT-17, both series I & II in the 682 & 782. The 482 & 582 had a 16 HP Briggs horizontal opposed twin which was actually a pretty decent engine. The 1872 & 2072 used the newer Kohler 18 & 20 HP opposed twin cyl. engine, I'm not positive but I think they may have been MAGNUM 18 & 20's.
The decks known a 44, 44A and 44C, 50, 50A, & 50C are all basically the same, the "44" & "50" are generic descriptions, the "A" decks fit the older tractors that use a 3/8" wide drive belt, 149, 169, 1450, 1650. The "C" decks have the driven pulley on the deck designed for the larger 5/8" wide drive belt. Plus there are some changes to the deck itself to allow the deck to fit the mule drive bracket on the tractor. The 44 & 50 deck skins are "Drawn" from thinner steel than earlier IH decks so they also tend to crack more frequently is stressed areas, mostly where the rear gauge wheel brackets bolt on, and sometimes around where the rear mower deck hangers bolt on. The spindle bearings are greasable but the OEM bearings are a unit bearing, also known as "Waterpump" bearings and are expensive to replace. But cheaper alternative replacement bearings are available. With a little work they do a fine job of mowing.
I mow just a bit over 2 acres, and have about 60-70 trees & bushes, LOTS of trimming, takes Me about 2-1/2 to 3 hours to mow with a 982 & 50C deck and I don't hurry. Also My 50C deck doesn't "FIT" real well some places in My yard, My old 129 & 44A deck actually mowed the same yard better, on less gas, and took maybe 10-15 minutes longer.

If You want a rear tiller I'd for sure get a tractor with hyd. lift, Tillers are heavy, I'm not a big fan of the "Quiet-Line tractors", so I'd recommend a 149 or 169, 782 would be nice. The SGT's, 982, 1872, & 2072 are also smooth, have hyd. lift, and most have aux. remote hyd. outlets, and all but the 982 have power steering. But they're kinda hard to find in decent shape. I looked off & on for 3-4 yrs before I bought My 982 back in fall of 2000.
The SGT's also have a Cat O 3-point hitch available, rear 2000 rpm independent PTO, and individual steering brakes, a 48" rear 3-point mounted tiller was available for them but they're pretty rare. To mount an IH tiller on the other tractors gets a little complicated, special brackets, gearboxes, lifts etc are required. Dad had a tiller on a dedicated 129 that I ran a little, the 129 ran it just fine, but I'll let someone more familiar with them describe them.

Finding new & used parts to keep these old Cub Cadets running is REAL easy, Plus they don;t take much to keep running. Attachments are also easy to find. And attachments for the vintage tractors Your looking at are almost all interchangable. You may have to swap a pulley if You get a 782 but that's about it. IH CC's IMHO have the easiest attachment mounting system of ANY garden tractor also.
 
David Gallagher (Dgallagher),

The front spindals are the same if they have wide or narrow tires on them, the center hub in the wheel is the same length. That is one nice thing that IH did was make all the tractors of the same series "the same" with all the parts being interchangable between the models, there are a couple of exceptions, so your 1x8/9 models will all be the same except the engine, but those are even exchangable in the 1x8/9 series since they are wideframes. Many people in the past would take an 86 and remove the 8hp engine and drop in a 12,14 or 16 hp in its place with no modification.....
 
Dennis F. When you say there are cheaper replacement bearings for the 44 and 50 (A & C) decks what are you refering to? I've never seen a different bearing.
 
Dennis:
Your deck information would be a great start on a deck FAQ..... I've seen more deck questions this spring than ever....
 
With all the deck questions, I guess I have one more to add. I haven’t seen this one discussed yet. I have a problem where the back quick release u brackets flex –spread apart and let the QA pin drop out of the rear undercarriage holes. I have been kicking around the idea of welding a spacer bar between the u brackets to hold the spacing. Any other thoughts as to how to hold the spacing?
 
Finally got the NF hydraulic lift off of the 106 last night. I'm not sure who said it, but the spring was broken. I have also got 2 seals on order for it. Should I put both of them in or keep one as a spare? I also noticed that the two arms on the rockshaft were not level with each other. Would that cause my deck to also be out of level? It has been mowing a little off kilter since I switched over to the hydraulic lift. Any help would be great.

On another note, I have almost gotten the 104 back into one piece! I will get some pics posted today or tomorrow.

Just got off the phone with the local Cub dealer and no luck on getting that particular spring. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Art A

Good job on spreading the black dirt! Looks like the box blade might do a better job than the rear blade, in that it retains material better and puts it in the low spots better.

Hope your seed sprouts strong and thick!
 
Scott, yes with the arms not in line your deck will not lift correctly. I had the same problem on my 149. Spiral pins were shearing and finally egg shaped the hole. Replaced the shaft and lift arm. This solved both problems. First thing you want to do is replace the pin, it is probably partially sheared in to.
 
Does anyone know what color code the International Harvester White paint by valspar is equal to? I don't have a paint gun so the spary cans is my only option. Also the decal for the headlight panel has a very white color on the stripes that will not match any of the cub whites at all. Is that normal?
 
Michael Reed (Mreed) TCS sells a valspar shaker can "International bage" it supposto match pretty well, i for get the code, i know it was posted a while back
 

Latest posts

Back
Top