Gerry I. -- I'm on my way over to the Sandbox to learn all about the hydro repair work you did. Thanks!
Josh O. -- Does your deck have all of the shrouding still intact?
If not, that may be contributing cause for the grass clippings not getting tossed out the side exit.
Ryan W, i cleaned it and its been ok since from what i know. yes the baffles are there and the extensionon the discharge chute is there. his is the first and only time its happend this bad.
ken, yes but its conviennient and less meesy than brushing it on. $4.79 a can tho
perhaps to get the spark closer to the piston for more power/torque? but yours isnt that way so maybe charlies is off of a later tractor. what is your head off of?
The head with the spark plug over the exhaust valve is the later one, and I think the idea was to make it harder to flood the engine. It didn't really help IMO.
question for the masses..The PO of my CCO said the engine ran until it got hot then quit. i know it needs rings and there was a crapload of carbon on the top of the block and head. I could also see it was spitting oil out between the head and had gasket towards the front of the tractor. besdes rings, and maybe a different head(one that isnt warped if this one is)what else should i check in to?
Josh,
If you are just looking to get it running for now or for a quick & low budget repair, I'd try to just remove the cylinder head, then clean the head, the piston top and the top of the block VERY GOOD, then replace the cylinder head with a new gasket, then torque it carefully according to the IH sequence at 10, then 20, then 30-ft.lbs., then fire it up. Run it for 5 minutes, then shut it off, then allow it to cool and then re-torque the cylinder head. I'd do the start/cool/re-torque two or even three times. If your fuel tank mounts over part of the cylinder head, use a temporary-but-longer fuel line for the 5 minute runs so you can access the normally-hidden head bolts easily with the torque wrench.
Ryan Wilke