Archive through May 21, 2014

[mconway]

I need an exhaust elbow for my 109. McMaster Carr doesn't have a direct replacement so I was thinking of getting a short nipple, cut just above the threads, cut the elbow above the threads and tig weld the elbow to whats left of the nipple. looked in the archives and seems to have been done before.; just thought i'd check and get feedback. Thanx in advance.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - Yep, spent a LOT of time on our 70... the one SON has now. Takes a lot of seat time to wear out so many K161 engines. Well... really not THAT much time, three years each. The K241 and larger engines last a whole lot longer. Less stress, the little engines are under-powered for many things.

NIC B, Dave S. - re: blown head gaskets... before I install the head, I always take my thinnest feeler gauge, .0015" and slide it between the head & block to make sure it can't slide out unless I release the pressure on the head. If I find a place where I can pull the gauge out I inspect both the head & block to see why. Normally I'll have a slight burr around one of the head bolt holes and need to either file, or chamfer a bolt hole. Like Henry said, you should chase the threads with a new Quality tap too.

If your head is flat, and you check to make sure your block is within .0015" of being flat, you should not have head gasket problems.

And again, it's been 20+ yrs since I had a sediment bulb on a CC. I replace them with a fuel valve and use rubber gas line & hose barbs and install one of THESE to filter my gas. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9706

No leaks, and no dirt ever in your carb.

 

[rrschmitt]

Mike C,

Put an ad in the classified section for a nipple.

 

[mconway]

Thanx Ron, just did that.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Hmm... interesting reading on the packing for the sediment bulbs. I simply go to a local hardware store and ask for the type of small o-ring that is fuel resistant. The sales person then goes to their store's specialty o-ring area and fixes me right up. No fuss or trying to cut something to fit.

On torqueing head bolts... 3 1/2 years since I replaced the worn and blown head gasket on the 125's engine. All what I did is use sandpaper on a flat glass surface to get the head flat again. I chased both engine and bolt threads with a good quality tap and die. I used some never seize and torqued everything just ONCE going 5 over the recommended torque specs. I've never bothered to re-torque. The 125 needs a new battery and is my most used tractor with over 300 hours on it since the replaced head gasket. I guess I need to stop listening to those old gentlemen with over sixty plus years of working on small engines of all kinds and their advice on how to replace and torque a head gasket.

 

[dschwandt]

On the head bolts and block. The block was resurfaced when at the machine shop last fall at the initial rebuild and I resurfaced the head myself w/the glass and sandpaper routine, twice now. I stopped by the Ace Hardware today and picked up new grade 8 bolts, one of which I will have to shorten a bit as it is 2" and the longest one on the head is 1.75", all the others are 1.5".

My son seems to think the timing is off and making it run too hot, as this time the head has a big hole blown in it between 2 of the bolts.

Can some one please explain how one can use a timing light on these engines? Each time prior to this I have used the "s" mark in the sight hole w/points set at .020 and each time the engine has started right up and ran great right off the bat after the carb adjustments. That little bugger os an "s" is sure a PITA to see, even w/fresh ISO mounts setting the engine up a little higher.

 

[bjamison]

David S - I took a Q-tip and put a little white paint on it and used that to put a dab of paint on the timing mark. Easy to find and see now with the timing light!

 

[hydroharry]

David S - about using the timing light, ole Bill has given you great info about marking the S or SP on your flywheel. You need to be able to see that mark with your timing light once the engine is running.
Also, based on the way you describe your current method I suspect the timing is off quite a bit. It sounds like you're attempting to use the static timing method without using a meter. If I understand the static method correctly (never done it cause I use a timing light) the points should be "just starting" to break open at the S mark. If you are setting your points at .020 right at the S mark then your points are very likely opening way to wide - and I think the timing will be way way advanced.
I recommend the following:
Start by rotating your crankshaft to where the points are open the widest. Then set the points at .020. Then get your timing light hooked up and start the engine and watch thru the site hole to see if the S (or SP) mark is above or below the site hole. I don't remember which way to adjust the points if the mark is up or down so you'll just have to try opening or closing the points to see which way the mark moves. Your engine will probably be shaking some but you should still be able to see the mark in the site hole if you have a good bright timing light and a nice white mark on your flywheel. (although you may have to shut off your back ground lights or cover yourself and part of the tractor with a blanket or tarp or big piece of cardboard to see the marks in the hole). Let us know how you make out.

 

[jchamberlin]

Quick Question: Which narrow frame models are "High Tunnel" and which ones are "Low Tunnel" and what are their respective advantages and limitations --inquiring minds wish to know.

H. K. Cooper: If I were a moderator, I would let you post directly to the FAQs, your information seems so good! Well done!

 

[aaytay]

Jeremiah-
The high-tunnel narrow frame is needed for the Hydro tractors. It is a necessity to fit that tall hydro pump under the frame. A gear drive doesn't need that height. Since the 123 was the first CC hydro, that series was the start of the high tunnel tractors. For whatever reason, <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> decided to use this high-tunnel on all tractors from this point on, even the gear-drives. The only tractors that didn't have the high tunnel at this point were the 7hp gear drives (71 & 72).

Said another way...
Low tunnel narrow frame: 70/100, 71, 72, 73

High tunnel narrow frame: All other narrow frame tractors