Archive through May 21, 2010
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
i was just able to turn the high speed needle in to within a 1/4 turn of all the way in before RPM's changed, then 3 turns out, with no change in RPM's.
that is not right, is it?
could the high speed needle chamber be blocked, and only removing the welch plugs can clean it?
with both needles out 1 1/4 turns from all the way in, tractor will stall at full throttle, with mower on.
tractor will not stall at 1/2 idle, mower on.
spraying carb cleaner in the carb does not stop a stall.
so, would you guys pull the welch plugs at this point?
if yes, since i have never done this before, any thing i know?
that is not right, is it?
could the high speed needle chamber be blocked, and only removing the welch plugs can clean it?
with both needles out 1 1/4 turns from all the way in, tractor will stall at full throttle, with mower on.
tractor will not stall at 1/2 idle, mower on.
spraying carb cleaner in the carb does not stop a stall.
so, would you guys pull the welch plugs at this point?
if yes, since i have never done this before, any thing i know?
jhillegass
Well-known member
Gary S,
I may be a little late with this but....Spindles from my 44A deck.
I may be a little late with this but....Spindles from my 44A deck.
Deck 44A
I read what was posted about the 1 1/4" nut on top of the outboard pulley being part of the pulley and that it is NOT removable. I disconnected the three bolts holding the pulley assembly to the deck and the whole is loose. The bolts are trapped by the pulley so it must come off to reach the ball bearing. Where is the key? Will it drive out without damage? The upper and bottom plates are free of the deck. Now if I understood correctly I drive the core striking it from the top through the bottom of the deck taking care to not wreck the grease fitting. It is not to be backed out by turning it. I did "build" a striking block with a hole in it to protect the grease fitting, but even a reasonably forceful strike moves the core zero. It really seems to be held by the 1 1/4" nut. Do I become more forceful? I'm wary of bending the deck if I deadblow it too hard. I'm certainly willing to give it a go I just want to be certain I understood the guidance provided.
I read what was posted about the 1 1/4" nut on top of the outboard pulley being part of the pulley and that it is NOT removable. I disconnected the three bolts holding the pulley assembly to the deck and the whole is loose. The bolts are trapped by the pulley so it must come off to reach the ball bearing. Where is the key? Will it drive out without damage? The upper and bottom plates are free of the deck. Now if I understood correctly I drive the core striking it from the top through the bottom of the deck taking care to not wreck the grease fitting. It is not to be backed out by turning it. I did "build" a striking block with a hole in it to protect the grease fitting, but even a reasonably forceful strike moves the core zero. It really seems to be held by the 1 1/4" nut. Do I become more forceful? I'm wary of bending the deck if I deadblow it too hard. I'm certainly willing to give it a go I just want to be certain I understood the guidance provided.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Gary-
Get a normal 3/4" nut (not the jam nut that holds the pulley on) and thread it on partway, and beat on that. That way you will protect the grease fitting and the end of the spindle. Soak it in PB blaster and use a large hammer. You may have to wait a couple days for the PB blaster to do its thing, or use a torch to heat the pulley hub.
Get a normal 3/4" nut (not the jam nut that holds the pulley on) and thread it on partway, and beat on that. That way you will protect the grease fitting and the end of the spindle. Soak it in PB blaster and use a large hammer. You may have to wait a couple days for the PB blaster to do its thing, or use a torch to heat the pulley hub.
jhillegass
Well-known member
Gary S.
Here is a side pulley from a 44A deck--notice the smooth bore and the keyway. The 1-1/4" nut is part of the pulley
Look on my earlier post to the spindle shaft with the key. It is a half-moon key, so the key won't come out until the pulley is removed. Your shaft is probably tight in the bore of the pulley because of the 30 year old corrosion.
You need to block between the pulley and the deck so you can get some movement when you pound on the shaft. Soaking with some penetrating oil may help.
Blocking and a big hammer should do the trick.
Here is a side pulley from a 44A deck--notice the smooth bore and the keyway. The 1-1/4" nut is part of the pulley
Look on my earlier post to the spindle shaft with the key. It is a half-moon key, so the key won't come out until the pulley is removed. Your shaft is probably tight in the bore of the pulley because of the 30 year old corrosion.
You need to block between the pulley and the deck so you can get some movement when you pound on the shaft. Soaking with some penetrating oil may help.
Blocking and a big hammer should do the trick.
Question do the driveshafts have to go back on the rag joints with the same on that it came off, say if i marked the rag joint where one bolt is with a * and the other side with a 2 do I need to make sure they match back up, because i replaced the fan on the 127 and now the driveshaft feels like it is vibrating.
Frank - There's a reason Welch plugs don't have Velcro ... best to leave them alone.
24 hours in a carb cleaning bath and a compressor with 125psi has always cleaned mine.
You might try a fine wire but be sure you don't use one that you have to force in or you'll break it off.
Another thing to consider , does the block/carb gasket still seal after you've had it off several times ?
Brian - If it's on a running engine start it up and let it heat up. It's "iffy" on the condition of the threads if it's never been out. I've got one here that stripped the block threads taking it out.
Sometimes it helps to try and tighten first as there is less rust ahead of the thread as what's got it "rust welded" in place.
44A Deck rambling - Would it be helpful if a short pipe with a diameter large enough to miss the spindle flange/deck bolts stood up under the deck and the spindle sat inside the pipe's bore be the correct way to beat the crap out of the spindle to knock it out ?
24 hours in a carb cleaning bath and a compressor with 125psi has always cleaned mine.
You might try a fine wire but be sure you don't use one that you have to force in or you'll break it off.
Another thing to consider , does the block/carb gasket still seal after you've had it off several times ?
Brian - If it's on a running engine start it up and let it heat up. It's "iffy" on the condition of the threads if it's never been out. I've got one here that stripped the block threads taking it out.
Sometimes it helps to try and tighten first as there is less rust ahead of the thread as what's got it "rust welded" in place.
44A Deck rambling - Would it be helpful if a short pipe with a diameter large enough to miss the spindle flange/deck bolts stood up under the deck and the spindle sat inside the pipe's bore be the correct way to beat the crap out of the spindle to knock it out ?
GARY S. - Just went thru the spindle rebuild a month ago on my 50C, same parts as your 44A. I got lucky and my dealer PRESSED my pulley off for me. I also got UNLUCKY and had to replace both the top & bottom housings to hold the spindle/bearing securely.
As Jerry H's pic's show, the bearing inner race is part of the shaft. Not replacable. Whole new shaft/bearing required. If your bearing was tight in the lower housing all your wear is in the bearing itself. So beat away on the zerk, it's included with the new $64 spindle bearing & shaft. Just don't beat-up your pulley or top bearing housing trapped between the pulley & bearing. Top part of the housing is $20 and bottom was $70.
As Jerry's pic's also show, the pulley has a WOODRUFF key, totally captured between the pulley & shaft, no way to remove just the key without pressing or beating the pulley off. MUCH more secure method of holding pulleys to the shafts than the earlier decks with tapered roller bearings IMHO.
Best way to remove pulley, key, etc is to remove the whole spindle from the deck and work on it secured in a vice. With the three nuts & lockwashers removed from the housing's three carriage bolts the housing should just lift right out.
As Jerry H's pic's show, the bearing inner race is part of the shaft. Not replacable. Whole new shaft/bearing required. If your bearing was tight in the lower housing all your wear is in the bearing itself. So beat away on the zerk, it's included with the new $64 spindle bearing & shaft. Just don't beat-up your pulley or top bearing housing trapped between the pulley & bearing. Top part of the housing is $20 and bottom was $70.
As Jerry's pic's also show, the pulley has a WOODRUFF key, totally captured between the pulley & shaft, no way to remove just the key without pressing or beating the pulley off. MUCH more secure method of holding pulleys to the shafts than the earlier decks with tapered roller bearings IMHO.
Best way to remove pulley, key, etc is to remove the whole spindle from the deck and work on it secured in a vice. With the three nuts & lockwashers removed from the housing's three carriage bolts the housing should just lift right out.
KEN - re: removing spindle shaft/bearing on 44/50" decks.
Short pipe say about 2-1/2", maybe 3" would work. Pipe should sit INSIDE the three housing mounting bolts but still clear the housing. I have my old housing & bearing I replaced sitting on my work bench but too lazy to walk out and measure it.....rather sit here and type. OD of the bottom part of the housing is about 2-3/4" dia. but has to be removed so the bearing can move downward.
ANYHOW..... I'm curious how DON T's coming along mounting his tire with his new inner tube! Bet he has better success than his young person at the tire shop!
Short pipe say about 2-1/2", maybe 3" would work. Pipe should sit INSIDE the three housing mounting bolts but still clear the housing. I have my old housing & bearing I replaced sitting on my work bench but too lazy to walk out and measure it.....rather sit here and type. OD of the bottom part of the housing is about 2-3/4" dia. but has to be removed so the bearing can move downward.
ANYHOW..... I'm curious how DON T's coming along mounting his tire with his new inner tube! Bet he has better success than his young person at the tire shop!
My dad said he saw a cub with a notched front grown up in weeds by a old house around union city tn going to look at it to day I am hoping it is a 124 or a 125 and that I can find the owner.
That split tube that Donald posted looked to straight and long to have been the result of a pinched tube. That looked more like a split China seam to me. But I'm thinking that the second leaking new tube may have been pinched , but he hadn't posted the pic of it.
I know pinched tubes from the BTDT School that I attended ... still have graduated !
Donald - You really need to check the inside of that tire for the smallest bit of foreign material (foreign material ... like a China tube or a Canadian finger nail) and the wheel's surface too.
I know pinched tubes from the BTDT School that I attended ... still have graduated !
Donald - You really need to check the inside of that tire for the smallest bit of foreign material (foreign material ... like a China tube or a Canadian finger nail) and the wheel's surface too.
KENtuckyKEN (Kweaver)
ok. I will just try soaking again.
it is a new carb, new gasket, so it still seals. tractor has not run long enough with out stalling to wear out the gasket.
I am considering buying a used , running engine. I will try that carb on my engine.
if that sale falls through, I think I will rebuild the original Kohler carb., and try that.
ok. I will just try soaking again.
it is a new carb, new gasket, so it still seals. tractor has not run long enough with out stalling to wear out the gasket.
I am considering buying a used , running engine. I will try that carb on my engine.
if that sale falls through, I think I will rebuild the original Kohler carb., and try that.
I have a Cub Cadet 128 that I'm having problems with. I can't get any spark to the plug. This is my first rebuild and I've hit my biggest snag. The coil is new and is getting power; however, I'm lost on what to do next. I've checked and rechecked the wiring, but that doesn't mean I didn't miss something. The points are new and are at least moving as they should.
Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks for helping a rookie.
Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks for helping a rookie.
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