Archive through May 21, 2008

[mbounds]

Michael M: With the Iso-Mounts, there is a very good reason the clutch plate has a flex center. The engine moves around slightly while vibrating.

The advice you got about the solid drive plates will indeed work if you don't care how long it will last. That vibrating engine is gonna wallow out a bigger hole in something if you do that. You would soon likely have to replace the entire drive line. I certainly would not recommend it. That solid plate only works properly with a solid mounted engine. A solid mounted 16 hp single-cylinder Kohler will rattle your teeth and make your chiropractor bill go up. IH tried that with the 169...didn't last too long.

You said that your 1200 has a 16 hp?? You sure..?? A transplant?? The 1200 came with a 12 hp and IH never put a 14 or 16 hp in a gearshift model...Explanation???

Myron B

 

[theaton]

Myron B, I agree with you. I asked awhile back why IH never made a 14 or 16hp gear drive in the 1x8 series. The response I got was that the gear drive cubs clutch was originaly designed for no more than 10hp. Teeth chatterin or not I would have loved to own a 148/168. Might have put somemore arguing in the hydro/gear drive discussion. In no way am I instigating with this post.

 

[jbliler]

Kraig, Don't worry about me. Yu post all the life size photos you want. I can always go for more coffee. It's worth the wait! Thanks again for keeping all those photos. I hear the pay is lousy and the retirement is worse!

 

[jbliler]

May be wrong here but didn't Kohlor make an 18 hp???? The shake could have had a bit to do with the twin cyl coming along.

 

[dfrisk]

TODD H. - Year ago when I dropped My Killer Kohler K321 (14+ hp) into My 72 I talked to Julian @ MWSC about what He thought I needed for a clutch. The package arrived the next day and I installed it as directed. For my little NF tractor with 23-8.50 Firestones and only 65-70# of weights per side there is NO way I need as strong a clutch as what I have. Tires spin hopelessly looking for traction, even on dry concrete...Son can't hardly drive it....He's more of a Hydro person anyhow....Never could shift the 72 right. There's a couple places in the drivetrain where only a single 1/4" spirol roll pin drives the tractor and over the long haul the pins fatigue and break or the hole at the back of the driveshaft wallow out and break the roll pin on anything more than 7-8 HP. Dad's old 70 He bought new in 1965 has the original clutch parts except the T/O bearing & teaser spring and it's wore out three K161's and two K181's. My 72 had a replacement K181 in it when I bought it in '81 and I put the K241 in in '85. Since '85 I've wore out two OEM driveshafts as I mentioned above before replacing the K241. I expect the MWSC driveshaft to last much longer, even with the K321.

 

[mmarion]

Hello Myron
The tag on the engine is k341, 16hp. I checked kohler engine identification site and states it's a 16. I am going to take the cover off of it and count the head bolts. 9 bolts for 10-14 hp, 10 bolts for 16-18 hp. I have not really checked it out. Been working on the 76. If I knew anything about these I don't think I would have bought the ones I have. haha After I buy something, I'm going to ride it one way or another. haha There was only to pan bolts holding it in. Drive plate was shreaded. Engine had been sitting all winter, stuck fresh battery in it, rolled over a few times and fired right up. No smoke or knocking. Checked the oil before starting. Sure was moving around! I think I will have to put a complete drive train in it. Been looking at different fixes others have installed. Hope someone has come up with a better fix.

 

[mbounds]

Michael M: I've got an 800 with a K-181 (8HP), a 1200 with a K-321 (14 hp) in it, and a 1650 with a k-341 (16) in it. I pulled the engines and did the Kirk Fix on the Iso-Bars to make them a one-piece "basket" lke CCC did with the single-cylinder 1282. Replaced the rubber mounts using new MTD/Cub Cadet kits for the bottom rubber mounts and the softer old IH mounts for the top rubber mounts. Otherwise the drive lines are stock and have been running them for over 7 years and they function like new ones to this day....Patience and paying attention to the repair procedures of those who have already been there and done that will let you be successful. This stuff isn't "instant mashed potatoes"...some folks think you can just pour a little magic "water" on them and they are done.." Not so. One thing, if you didn't learn it with the 76 "fixin" - you must have the Operator's, Parts & Service Manuals!! Each has information the others do not. All the answers are't in them, but most are. Those that aren't can get explained right here--just ask Charlie. He'll tell you so.

I believe the Iso-Bar fix is in the FAQ but several of us have it available if you need it. The only way to go. Then all you will need to do is replace that flexible drive disc. There are a couple of electical "fixes" you should do but get the engine installed correctly and we can get to that...

Myron B

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Having a problem with my 782 that has an kohler KT17 series II. Mowed grass this weekend and had no problems. shut it down and let it sit awhile before blowing it off with an air hose. After sitting for a bit it started fine but began to sputter as I pulled it into the garage. Then it stalled and would not start. Got a very strong smell of gas and thought I had just flooded the engine. Went and checked fluid levels and found that there was a lot of gas in the oil. What can cause this?? Is it a bad seat in the carb or some other issue at hand?? Any help would be great!! Thanks Terry

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry, time to rebuild the fuel pump. Most likely the diaphragm in the pump sprung a leak.

 

[mbounds]

Terry G: Kraig is likely right on target. I had the same problem. When I fixed (replaced) my fuel pump, I also added an inline fuel cut-off so it is on the top left side of the engine so I can cut off any gravity based fuel pressure on that pump diaphragm or turn it on without getting out of the seat...just lift the hood a bit. Works wonders, because when not in use, the fuel is cut off. Yeah, I know there is a cut-off at the bottom of the tank but, it is such a PITA to get to, no one ever uses it regularly.

Myron B
CCSupply Room

 

[cvaughan]

Dennis and Kraig thanks for straightening that out for me. I was primed to be upset because it had been represented as a 1961 however after a few tweeks to get it going I drove it around and can't help but be pleased. What a great little tractor.
Thanks for your help.
Curtis

 

[kmcconaughey]

Myron, good suggestion! A few years back my Allis Chalmers 620 fuel pump failed and filled the crankcase with gasoline, right after an oil and filter change too.

After I rebuilt the fuel pump I added a fuel shut off.

 

[mgonitzke]

Christopher C.-

I changed oil in the 1650 that I removed the balance gears from. There was a ~1/16" coating of metal dust/oil on the magnet on my drain plug, and the oil in the tray had a streak with particles in it. I didn't have any chips in mine. Hopefully, whatever was floating around in there didn't/won't do any damage.

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Kraig, Myron Thanks a bunch for the suggestions!! Will get to work on that this weekend. how easy is the rebuild process? Or should I go with a new pump? thanks again!! this site has got a ton of knowledge!!

 

[dsacksteder]

Could someone please post some pics of their plow/hitch setups. Im on the market for a hitch that I will use eventually when I get a brinley plow. Can I use the stock IH hitch or will I need a brinley. will the brinley bolt right on???TAny help would be great. Thanks,Dustin

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry, the fuel pump is basically two halves with a rubber diaphragm between them. Take the screws out that hold the halves together, split the halves, take out the old parts put in the new parts, place the halves together and install the screws. Yes, I over simplified it slightly but in any case it's pretty easy to do and the rebuild kit should have decent instructions.

 

[mbounds]

Dustin S: The IH 3-pt hitch is a prerequisite for installion of the Brinly Sleeve Hitch adaptor. The plow will have a yoke which is attached to the sleeve on the Brinly adaptor with a pin.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[tteague]

wut thu hek yall talkin bout man!!??

 

[mmarion]

Thanks Myron
I have already found Kirk's cradle upgrade and have the metal cut in the shop. Brian Miller builds drive clutch assemblies. The guy here in Indiana that has so many cubs told me to use the solid plate. I didn't think it was a good idea, thats why I posted and asked. I didn't know if someone had taken the solid plate, bored it out for the floating bushing and used it. I have read lots of the archived postings, lot's of good reading and ideas. I would like to use a good universal at the drive shaft to trans. Most likely go back stock and see how it rides. I just like to tinker and have something to do. thanks for the help.

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Hey all, Has anyone used the Dupont #27849 yellow, it seems more yellow than the Cub color. I know at least one of you cubbers has a secret recipe for painting ie brand or type. Would you be willing to share? The white looks great. Workin on an "O"