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Archive through May 15, 2009
- Thread starter lbuttke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Thanks guys for the input. I'll probably have to have a friend work on the 1650 for me. On Monday, I found out that I have huge heel spur that's grown around the bone and is messing with the nerves in my right ankle. Along with that is arthritis in the area. SSssoooo... although nothing has been said I'll probably be having surgery in the next couple weeks or so. I have to get the swelling down first. That means my Cub time and gardening time won't be as much as I'd like.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jason B.-
I'd use Hytran or 30 wt. gear lube like your manual tells you...
I'd use Hytran or 30 wt. gear lube like your manual tells you...
Hi guys, I have a 147 with a 1a tiller that I picked up. I have the long belt that goes from the pto to the gear box, but Im missing the short belt. Does anyone know what size it takes without having to go to the dealer? My nearest dealer is about an hour away from me.
Thanks for any info.
Thanks for any info.
Ok thanks Brendan it did puke a little oil when I took off the cover. I was going to call it a foo foo valve or kanibaler flap seeing how I am just a dumb bodyman
. Hey send me some photos of that door I can come up with something for ya.
fcurrier
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- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Funny the Tecumseh subject came up. This followed me home Wednesday night:
The owner claimed the original Kohler was rebuilt twice and when it was ready for the 3rd rebuild he didn't want to go .030 over so bought this 16hp Tecumseh and installed it. This 1250's hour meter reads 7938.8.
The owner claimed the original Kohler was rebuilt twice and when it was ready for the 3rd rebuild he didn't want to go .030 over so bought this 16hp Tecumseh and installed it. This 1250's hour meter reads 7938.8.
Richard P. Thanks. The IH pulley I had rattled with rust inside it and someone bent it up pretty good with a puller at some point so it wobbled, even after trying to fix it. I found this pulley on a MW tractor that had the same looking pump but spun clockwise. I used the gears and this pulley out of it for the 100. Anyway the pulley was made by Congress in Detroit. It has a different diameter than stock of only 6" and the p/n is A-60?. I think the ? was a 0 but is scratched pretty good.
Also on my O it has the factory double single piece pulley on the motor and factory smaller diameter pulley on the pump. The PO said that setup sought after but who knows.
mstetar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Messages
- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
jason m burge (Jmburge) i use 90 weight in all my cubs and never had a problem, i know the farmall cubs were built to use 90 weight and that is the same transmission in your "O" so you should be good, before you go just adding some though i would take the inspection plate off and clean out all that old gunk that has a tendency to build up in there. and if ya find any give us some pictures!
rwittenbeck
New member
- Joined
- May 10, 2009
- Messages
- 4
- displayname
- ROBERT WITTENBECK
many thanks to all replys about my 105 and replacing/rebuilding the 12hp kohler. Decided to rebuild--want to keep it original and like the kohler--have an 856 wheel horse with 8hp kohler and love the way it runs/ excellant clutch arrangement with belts running drive and deck. thanks again-great site.
Good morning everyone, I have a question about a #26 carb off one of my 100s. I was taking it apart to clean and rebuild it, and broke one of the brass screws off that holds the butterfly on. I managed to drill the screw and got it out of the throttle shaft without messing up the shaft. I need to go to Ace hardware and get a new screw and a tap. I need to know what size screw and tap to buy. Should I replace with another brass scew, or will any screw of the correct size do? Thanks in advance. Can't wait to get this running!
Jeremy,
The ol timers will know but I think brass screws were used for the sake of staking. Get the tap for the size whole you drilled. OR put a crowbar in your wallet and get a new throttle shaft so that everything is as it should be.
The ol timers will know but I think brass screws were used for the sake of staking. Get the tap for the size whole you drilled. OR put a crowbar in your wallet and get a new throttle shaft so that everything is as it should be.
Jeremy,
http://ccspecialties.org/fuel_tuneup_maint.html
about 1/2 way down the page
IH - Throttle shaft Repair Kit PN/Kohler # 25 757 16-S
Includes throttle shaft, throttle shaft bushing, installation tool, bowl gasket, bowl baffle gasket, bowl retainer gasket, #2-56 screw, 3 #3-48 screws, and loctite.
http://ccspecialties.org/fuel_tuneup_maint.html
about 1/2 way down the page
IH - Throttle shaft Repair Kit PN/Kohler # 25 757 16-S
Includes throttle shaft, throttle shaft bushing, installation tool, bowl gasket, bowl baffle gasket, bowl retainer gasket, #2-56 screw, 3 #3-48 screws, and loctite.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Jeremy:
To expand on Richard's explanation a little: The term staking in this case refers to the mushrooming of the screw threads that stick through the throttle shaft. The reason your brass screw broke when backing it out is most likely due to the staking. Note that the kit Richard mentions includes loctite, as trying to stake those screw is "interesting" to say the least (the factory has tools other than a hammer.....). Thought I'd throw this in, as some of our newer members might not have heard that term...
To expand on Richard's explanation a little: The term staking in this case refers to the mushrooming of the screw threads that stick through the throttle shaft. The reason your brass screw broke when backing it out is most likely due to the staking. Note that the kit Richard mentions includes loctite, as trying to stake those screw is "interesting" to say the least (the factory has tools other than a hammer.....). Thought I'd throw this in, as some of our newer members might not have heard that term...
Thanks guys. I never heard of staking. It makes sense to keep those little screws from being sucked into the engine. I will make sure to use loctite on them. I drilled down through the center of the old screw and extracted it out without enlarging the hole. It was tedious, but it came out nice. I take it from Richard's post that I need a #3-48 screw? I will check at Ace. They carry a huge selection of Servalite and Hillman speciality stuff. I don't really need to replace the shaft, or bushing because it is nice and tight yet. Thanks.
Another point on the throttle shaft screws:
If one vibrated loose and got sucked into the cylinder, would you rather have a soft brass one get mashed up and bounced out through the exhaust, or a hard steel one banging around on the piston, cylinder wall, and combustion chamber?
If one vibrated loose and got sucked into the cylinder, would you rather have a soft brass one get mashed up and bounced out through the exhaust, or a hard steel one banging around on the piston, cylinder wall, and combustion chamber?
I am having some issues with my hydraulic lift and was wondering if anyone could help me out. When I'm mowing my deck seems to get lower and lower to the ground. I'm thinking the lift isnt sustaining pressure to keep it in one spot. Should it keep the deck in one spot or do they have a tendancy to slowly let it go down? I am not used to using a hydraulic lift with the mower deck as I just put it on in the beginning of winter for plowing snow. Also the handle seems a little loose and moves on its own at times, should this happen? I am thinking of a rebuild for it may help but I am not entirely sure. What would ya'll suggest? Thanks ahead.
This photocopy picture of a prototype Cub Cadet has been around on the different forums for awhile
This morning I received a phone call from a friend that had come to Louisville for an estate auction, and he told ne there was a picture I would be interested in, and it turned out to be a color version of the same picture.
The man in the picture is Mr. Al Hettinger I am told, a former IH Louisville Engineer, and the auction was for the estate of his widow. The picture was taken at the Louisville Plant, in the engineering dept. In with numerous other IH collectables was this other picture,
It appears to be a color sample presentation for the "IH powers to be", of different colors for the "Originals", perhaps for something similar to the JD Custom Color line (commonally called patio tractors) introduced in 1969, or maybe to appeal to the lady of the house. I would assume that the IH brass said no to pastel color tractors and it was dropped, JD dropped them after a year or two. I would assume the color samples were presented sometime in the 1960-63 time frame since the parts are all for the "O".
The color names are hard to read on the placard's on the items, but from left to right they are:
#93-27194 Seaxxxxx Blue - may be Seascape or Seacoast
#93-27150 Sunshine Gold
#93-27147 Coral Pink
#201 Harvester Red (201 preceded the current 2150 red)
#93-27156 Tropical Lavender (it looks like)
#93-83614 Vista Green.
Personally, I'm kinds glad they stuck to the yellow and white.........
This morning I received a phone call from a friend that had come to Louisville for an estate auction, and he told ne there was a picture I would be interested in, and it turned out to be a color version of the same picture.
The man in the picture is Mr. Al Hettinger I am told, a former IH Louisville Engineer, and the auction was for the estate of his widow. The picture was taken at the Louisville Plant, in the engineering dept. In with numerous other IH collectables was this other picture,
It appears to be a color sample presentation for the "IH powers to be", of different colors for the "Originals", perhaps for something similar to the JD Custom Color line (commonally called patio tractors) introduced in 1969, or maybe to appeal to the lady of the house. I would assume that the IH brass said no to pastel color tractors and it was dropped, JD dropped them after a year or two. I would assume the color samples were presented sometime in the 1960-63 time frame since the parts are all for the "O".
The color names are hard to read on the placard's on the items, but from left to right they are:
#93-27194 Seaxxxxx Blue - may be Seascape or Seacoast
#93-27150 Sunshine Gold
#93-27147 Coral Pink
#201 Harvester Red (201 preceded the current 2150 red)
#93-27156 Tropical Lavender (it looks like)
#93-83614 Vista Green.
Personally, I'm kinds glad they stuck to the yellow and white.........
