Archive through May 14, 2007

[lbuttke]

Got me a little problem that been making me scratch my hear for the past couple of months.
Seeing how I am no good at rebuilding these carbs for the kohlers I decided to purchase a new one for my 100.

The problem I have been having is this, I have to choke the living heck out of the motor to get it to start. Once running it runs fine.
I have adjusted the high speed needle ( at least I think its the highspeed needle) and the low speed needle to no avail.
Even after a good work out, if I let the motor set more than 5 minutes I have to choke the heck out of it to fire it up again.
There is good gas flow to the carb, no dirt, rust, water or other junk in the gas.

What am I over looking here?
Or am I just stuck with a tempormental starting cub 100.

 

[cellis]

Matt: Thanks for the tips on cleaning up the head on my little K301. I did that, bought a new gasket, cleaned everything up and put the head back on. The good news is that the top of the piston looked dry - some carbon but nothing to get in a twist over - but no real evidence of serious oil burning. However, when I put it all back together I checked with a compression gauge and got 65 pounds. Is this because of the ACR or do I have lame motor?

I've also got a bad fuel shut-off so I can't try to light it up until I can get some fuel into the carb but that'll happen tomorrow...I hope.

 

[hwcarter]

Lonny I had the same problem on my 147. Found the points were in really bad shape, pitted, oily wrong gap. New point=new tractor

 

[mfisher]

Lonny - I know you're talking a 100, but my 149 always needs a choke for every start. Now I wouldn't call it choking the heck out of it, but at least 1-2 revolutions worth.

Henri C, Ryan W - I had a similar problem with fuel leaking out of the air cleaner area on rare occasions. I've also used the shut-off if I'm gone for any length time.

 

[aschumacher]

Lonnie, I like others have to choke engine for 1 or 2 revs to start. What no one asked...is your starter spinning fast enough to suck in a full load of gas/air?

 

[mgonitzke]

Craig E.-

The low reading is a result of the ACR. What you really need is a leakdown tester. I have one but it's meant for aircraft so I need to make an adapter to use it on my cubs.

 

[cellis]

Matt: Got it - thought that might be it. I've got an aircraft leakdown tester, too. What do I have to do to it to use it on the Cub??

Also, I can't find the picture of the new hy-tran gallon container in the archives - is the one with the red label the correct one???

 

[digger]

Craig E.
http://cubfaq.com/lubricants.html

 

[dtanner]

Mat
a little oil will increase the compression,it did on my cub.when i tore her down i found the rings were stuck. Replace the rod and piston with new rings after honing the cylinder. she works good and needs a little choke to star to.

 

[cellis]

Thanks, Charlie - just what I was looking for.

 

[dtanner]

sorry for the mis spells(cold up here in canada,and can`t spell for the dickens)

 

[tgallagher]

we have been doing some serious cutting with the rebuilt 86 W/38" deck (new oregon blades).

Cuts like a champ, will get some picture up here soon.

mine needs a touch of choke also to start.

 

[dtanner]

Ken tomorrow i will try a lovejoy coupling and short shaft to clear battery box to mount the hyd pump there for my loader. Thanks

 

[lbuttke]

Allen, Mike.
I have to spin over the motor 12 to 14 times to get it to fire up, that is with the choke on full and the throttle set to 1/4. Anything less on the throttle and it will not start.
I have tried other starters from my other cubs and no better luck starting, and the starter from the 100 starts the other 3 cubs just fine.

Harold,

Points have been replaced, cleaned, set at .20 gap, that was one of my head scratching ideas, change out the points, no luck at starting any better.

 

[kide]

The discussion about leakdown vs. compression testers got me looking back for a pretty simple (but real) DIY leakdown setup that I stumbled across while out surfing one night... (Google "leakdown testing" for a bunch of links..) If ya want to try building one - here's some pretty simple plans - and remember - that air pressure can spin the motor, so keep your fingers out of the potential "spinning bits" when testing.

 

[hcole]

Lonny, sometimes on those older engines you gotta give 'em what they want not what the book says. On my 100 when I first got it about 5 or 6 years ago I tuned it up and set the points like the book said and it was a hard starter too, Then I got smart and treated it like my 68 Ford and set them suckers with a folded match book and I haven't had a lick o' trouble since

 

[rchristensen]

Lonnie B. A weak coil will give you those sypmtoms, where you need the gas set just right and full choke to start and once it is running it will run good. The funny thing is how good it will run once it is running. I've seen that before, replaced the coil and good starting again.

 

[lbuttke]

Richard.

Thanks for the coil info, I would have never thought of that, I did change out the condenser with no improvement.

Henri.
I will give the old matchbook trick a try.
I rember my dad saying something about setting the point gap on his old chevy useing a bobby pin/hair pin.

 

[fmorski]

A top of the line Leak Down Tester is on POWERHOUSEPRODUCTS. It is a two gauge unit which is the most accurate method.

I have a Sun unit that came in my Sun Tune Up center. Actually bought the Center at an auction to get the Leak Down Tester. It reads in percentage. Got used to this unit from my Fuel Racing days.

Use it on my cubs especially when I get an addition to the fleet.

 

[lhinds]

Lonny;The points need to be set with a timing light. I had a 147 with this same problem and used a timing light and solved my problem. The initial .020 setting is a point to start from.Check Faq. on timing. Or the Maint. manual.