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Archive through May 12, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Hmmm ... clashing gears, popping out of gear, gear teeth wearing - never happens on my 129.
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Kraig,
I agree but disagree, it depends on what you use as a reference point. I agree that what Shultize has has the correct fittings from the block to the muffler, but it depends on your reference as to whether they are in the correct order. The order according to a TC-82 Parts Catalog for the Original, dated 2-61, (with Revision 6 dated 2-64,)list item 81 NUT, lock P/N 138 909 R1, item 82 ELBOW, street P/N 385 309 R1, Item 83, NIPPLE, elbow to muffler P/N 127878, and item 84, Muffler, exhaust P/N 385 307 R1.

However, looking at an Operators Manual for the Original, dated 12-15-61, the pictures in the manual (Illust 22 on page 22) show the nipple screwed into the block and the elbow screwed onto the nipple, like the picture Shultzie posted. Keep in mind that the pictures in this manual are of one of the 10 Louisville prototypes by evidence of the smooth foot rest rather than the perforated foot rest, and we know that at least one of the prototypes was used for the purpose of compiling the Operators and Services manuals.

So, this
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would think as long as it consist of a close nipple, street ell, and lock nut, in either position, it would be correct, but I believe the production run had the elbow in the block and the nipple between the elbow and the muffler. I say do it the way you want it and I'll get down off this soap box now.
 
Paul, yeah, I didn't want to get involved but I was asked to.
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I agree, either way could be correct if one uses the street elbow and nipple. Here is a photo of the Original that Bryan M. used to have that was taken when he and Dan disassembled it for the refurb. I believe this was the factory install as Bryan bought it from the original owner.

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Then there's this document:

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A close up of the engine photo:

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Here's where it gets interesting, the exploded view within the document:

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Hard to say for sure, but it appears to me that the nipple goes into the block:

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Anyone have a higher resolution version of this photo?
 
GERRY - Just let it go. I have neither the time or temperment right now to debate GD verse Hydro with anyone.
 
I thoght i would post a picture of my 61 and 62 Originals . I see they are both different. I think the 62 was changed to keep the muffler heat from the carb . was there ever a change to the exhaust to move the muffler out father away from the Carb ???

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Dennis - in your post below you said:
"But I've been the primary operator of that tractor since 1968 and have NEVER ground the gears in it."
Why is NEVER in all caps? In my view using all caps brings attention and question to the word, and if I understand IT terminology it's supposed to imply yelling!!!!! Did you actually mean something like:
"I can't ever remember grinding the gears"???
or
"I only ever ground the gears one time when it was rainy and my foot slipped off the clutch"???
Using NEVER in all caps sounds to me like a long long time
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In regards to popping out of gear and worn teeth- it bugs me to death when I see people on old iron shifting on the fly on a machine that wasn't designed to do it. If your machine is running well and you are a good operator you can take off in 5th (on a H, M, etc) and it won't stall even at half throttle. I just did it to my dad's H saturday.
 
Harry's bucking for Kraig's INSTIGATOR title.
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Ok all, below is a pic of an engine out of an O that I just tore down today. If I understand correctly this is the actual factory setup. Have a couple others like Donald's with the extensions. Now if I can just get it out! Also, looking for suggestions on filling pitted areas on outside of block. Fairly deer in some areas. Doesn't need to be perfect but just purdied up a bit. Thanks

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I had to stop on a hill one time and change gears on my 460. Then is when it came to me why was I in 5th gear anyway. Who needs to go 25 mph on a tractor? Gets kind of scary when the tires start bouncing up and down...
 
Terry
May not be a quick fix but on the "O" exhaust, I have in the past cut off the curved (elbow) pipe and using a saws all I SLOWLY cut inside the pipe just enough to make a thin slit in it but not cutting into the block threads. Next I took a hammer and chisel and tapped the outside of the pipe to collapse it near the cut I made. This allowed enough slack to twist the pipe out with a pipe wrench.
 
Keith O - talk about being scary when the tires start bouncing up and down, when I was in my last year of HS I worked for Western Constr. for a couple weeks doing some clean up work on a highway job they just finished in my home town. When it was done the foreman asked if I would drive a maintainer/road grader over to Jefferson (little town about 15 miles from my home). I said SURE!!!! (even tho I'd never driven one before, I figured how hard could it be standing up there in that driver area with no cab, etc. He did tell me to not take it to fast. I took off in that thing and it was a piece of cake to drive along the side of the highway, and I'd move it over onto the blacktop when there were no cars, and then it started - I was probably going between 10-15mph and that thing started to bounce up and down, and I thought it would just stop on it's own. It kept getting worse and worse and worse until I was bouncing up and down and figured out I had to slow down and stop. WHEW!!!!! I think I might still feel it now. I think I kept it at about 5mph after that, and if it started bouncing at all I slowed way downnnnnnnn, then gave her a little speed again once it was smoothed out. It took me about hour and a half to get there - but heck, it was the end of the job anyway (and I thought almost the end of me at one point!!!) Now, back on subject.

Frank - nope, just like to help out Kraig once'n awhile.

Never had an "O" so can't say nothing on the exhaust elbow debate.
 
Mike - right now I'm just soaking the crap out of it so ill give it a few days and see what happens. Will do the saw thing if it doesn't bust loose. I have a good elbow off another O so I've at least got one thing going right. Actually removed the exhaust today out of another O block but it wasn't near as nasty as the one I posted earlier. Thanks.
 
While I'm at it, anyone know where to find the plastic/rubber o-ring like things for the gas line pictured below

Fuel line for Original
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Hi guys--this is Lance from sunny southern cal. Ihave worked out all the bugs on my 1650 and now I'm working on my tiller. It's a Model 2 ser# 3130283U.The final drive at the tiller shaft was sloppy, the bolts that pinch the assembly together were loose and the gear oil had been leaking for some time. The tiller shafts left and right are frozen tight to the drive shafts. I'm gonna heat em up and bust em loose so I can get the housing apart for a good look.
Does anyone have a source for a parts manual for this unit? I looked in the manuals section but nothing.
I could sure use some advice on this one.
Thanks
Lance
 
Lance,
Did you try parts tree?
You type in the model tractor then go to attachments and it should be listed there.
 

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