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Archive through May 12, 2012
- Thread starter wshytle
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I itching to ask this one, I know it's probably been asked a thousand times but I can't find the answer in the FAQ's. What are the wide/narrow frame designationa all sbout? I assume its models from different years. Where can I find the information. I have a 129, used the FAQ's to find the year/ month it was made. I thought was a wide frame but the more I read in the forum the more confused I get, now I don't know for sure.
The 129 is a wide frame. The 70-147 (excluding wide frame models 86, 108, 109, 128, and 129) is a narrow frame and any model after that is a wide frame. Changed in 1971 or so (I don't remember off hand) from narrow to wide frame models. The difference being the front half of the frame is wider to accommodate bigger motors over 12hp.
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Daniel,
Then I guess the splines holding your lever onto the shaft are "wallowed" out... The sponsors above list the same handle for NF and WF units.. You could get a new lever from our sponsors, or loosen the setscrews and remove the handle, and try inserting some loctite thread repair epoxy into the handle and place it back on the shaft.. Usually, we can't get the handle off... LOL... Someone else may chime in with a alternative solution..
Then I guess the splines holding your lever onto the shaft are "wallowed" out... The sponsors above list the same handle for NF and WF units.. You could get a new lever from our sponsors, or loosen the setscrews and remove the handle, and try inserting some loctite thread repair epoxy into the handle and place it back on the shaft.. Usually, we can't get the handle off... LOL... Someone else may chime in with a alternative solution..
Anthony S.
Narrow Frames
70/100
71, 102, 122, 123
72, 104, 105, 124, 125
73, 106, 107, 126, 127, 147
Wide Frames
86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149,169,
800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450
482, 1282, 582, 682, 782, 982
HP model number
7 hp = 7W W= 0-3
8 hp = 86
10 hp = 10X X= 0,2-9,and 00
12 hp = 12Y Y= 2-9, 00 and 50
14 hp = 14Z Z= 7,9,and 50
16 hp = 16A A= 9 and 50
gear drive even number 0,2,4,6,8,00
hydro odd numbers 3,5,7,9,50
This works on 10 hp to 16hp. All 7 hp and 8 hp were gear drive. This will not work for the red tractors or later
Narrow Frames
70/100
71, 102, 122, 123
72, 104, 105, 124, 125
73, 106, 107, 126, 127, 147
Wide Frames
86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149,169,
800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450
482, 1282, 582, 682, 782, 982
HP model number
7 hp = 7W W= 0-3
8 hp = 86
10 hp = 10X X= 0,2-9,and 00
12 hp = 12Y Y= 2-9, 00 and 50
14 hp = 14Z Z= 7,9,and 50
16 hp = 16A A= 9 and 50
gear drive even number 0,2,4,6,8,00
hydro odd numbers 3,5,7,9,50
This works on 10 hp to 16hp. All 7 hp and 8 hp were gear drive. This will not work for the red tractors or later
Pulled the engine on the 1650. Gear teeth in the pan from the governor. Looks like you have you have pull the camshaft to get a governor gear in there. Pulled the head too cylinder looks good just lots of carbon on the piston..
Hey everyone, thanks a lot for helping me out with my hydro lever question. Turns out there was a set screw missing. I didn't have another one handy SO I installed a machine screw and can't see it from the drivers seat- viola it is tightened all back up again. So until I can find another set screw, I'll keep the machine screw.
Thanks a lot for helping me out.
Thanks a lot for helping me out.
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Joe R
Dan Bauer from WI. wrote this up a couple of months ago maybe it will help you
the following is from Dan Bauer
Im back to announce... SUCCESS!!
I have now installed a new governor without pulling the crankshaft and camshaft.
1. I removed the oil pan a month ago to drain out the oil and inspect things. Everything looks pretty good... almost like this engine was rebuild like the previous owner said!
2. I removed the gas tank, the spark plug, and oil dip stick. When I turned the engine upside down, the weight balanced nicely on the gas tank support and the top engine plate.
3. I setup lights above and on the governor side to shine light THRU my target hole. This proved to be a blessing when the governor rod needed to find the hole in the crankcase.
4. I used a 12" pair of locking forceps to weave the new governor into to place. The biggest issue was getting the governor plate past the camshaft. It took a bit of weaving practice and then a total 2 minutes to get her into the pocket area.
5. I then DROPPED the governor rod when she was in the pocket area. I repositioned the forceps onto the inboard part of the rod to LIFT the outboard part of the rod into the hole heading out of the crankcase.
6. Then I grabbed the rod sticking out of the crankcase and pushed the inboard end into its hole.
The entire operation took me a month to figure out and a whooping FIVE MINUTES to complete! I took photos and can upload. IS the group interested in this being a FAQ? contact me, danWI
Dan can you upload some pictures here for us to see or search for in the future
Dan Bauer from WI. wrote this up a couple of months ago maybe it will help you
the following is from Dan Bauer
Im back to announce... SUCCESS!!
I have now installed a new governor without pulling the crankshaft and camshaft.
1. I removed the oil pan a month ago to drain out the oil and inspect things. Everything looks pretty good... almost like this engine was rebuild like the previous owner said!
2. I removed the gas tank, the spark plug, and oil dip stick. When I turned the engine upside down, the weight balanced nicely on the gas tank support and the top engine plate.
3. I setup lights above and on the governor side to shine light THRU my target hole. This proved to be a blessing when the governor rod needed to find the hole in the crankcase.
4. I used a 12" pair of locking forceps to weave the new governor into to place. The biggest issue was getting the governor plate past the camshaft. It took a bit of weaving practice and then a total 2 minutes to get her into the pocket area.
5. I then DROPPED the governor rod when she was in the pocket area. I repositioned the forceps onto the inboard part of the rod to LIFT the outboard part of the rod into the hole heading out of the crankcase.
6. Then I grabbed the rod sticking out of the crankcase and pushed the inboard end into its hole.
The entire operation took me a month to figure out and a whooping FIVE MINUTES to complete! I took photos and can upload. IS the group interested in this being a FAQ? contact me, danWI
Dan can you upload some pictures here for us to see or search for in the future
I thank you all very much. If I might ask one more historical question, When or rather what model made the transition from the belt drive/engine to clutch to a direct drive?
My original had an acomodation for an old style rope, pull start and I used it many times. I don't think I'd like to hand pull this one around. On the other hand, 35 years later when I sold my O, it had the same belt that I bought it.
My original had an acomodation for an old style rope, pull start and I used it many times. I don't think I'd like to hand pull this one around. On the other hand, 35 years later when I sold my O, it had the same belt that I bought it.
