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Archive through May 12, 2010
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
well, i dont know where i went wrong here, but I am starting to feel like I am arguing with you guys, trying to convince you that I know I am right.
If I knew what I was talking about, I would not be here.
I will adjust the governor arm, replace the spring, reset the spring to the third hole and then if it still stalls, i will post the video.
If I knew what I was talking about, I would not be here.
I will adjust the governor arm, replace the spring, reset the spring to the third hole and then if it still stalls, i will post the video.
Starter/Generator (older tractors) vs. QL Starter question...
I was wondering what the differences were? My understanding of the QL starter is that it runs off of 12v DC from the battery to turn a gear that turns the flywheel. What does the Starter/Generator do and which is better?
Thanks,
-Calvin
I was wondering what the differences were? My understanding of the QL starter is that it runs off of 12v DC from the battery to turn a gear that turns the flywheel. What does the Starter/Generator do and which is better?
Thanks,
-Calvin
Calvin, to add to what Jeff wrote, the QL engine has an alternator charging system in place of the generator charging system. This "alternator" aka "stator" is built in and is behind the flywheel.
Kid<sub>e</sub> - Why do I feel that you took a swipe at me ? I felt the wind buzz me
Josh - That's the way we spell in the south.
Calvin - Like everybody said that's a bad crappy bead down the backside of a cow weld. The unnamed member that told you it might be a dealer option needs his/her glasses changed more than I do.
Donald - Man you got it made up there. How you get your better half to call you during the day ?
Mine doesn't want to talk to me during the day.
I get orders too, not to do anything ... until <u>she</u> wants something done !
Dennis - You never asked if I had my oil changed
I've got to change the SGT's oil and check to see if the synthetic oil in the 2166 is starting to get black. I think the 2166 has gone 3 years now but it is just about retired to a backup mower.
I guess I better go change oil ... put the SGT oil in the 2166 and the 2166 oil in the SGT ...
ps ... I've got a hole saw if you need it ...
Josh - That's the way we spell in the south.
Calvin - Like everybody said that's a bad crappy bead down the backside of a cow weld. The unnamed member that told you it might be a dealer option needs his/her glasses changed more than I do.
Donald - Man you got it made up there. How you get your better half to call you during the day ?
Mine doesn't want to talk to me during the day.
I get orders too, not to do anything ... until <u>she</u> wants something done !
Dennis - You never asked if I had my oil changed
I guess I better go change oil ... put the SGT oil in the 2166 and the 2166 oil in the SGT ...
ps ... I've got a hole saw if you need it ...
KEN - Since you brought up the topic of oil changes I assumed you had all your's changes!
I like that idea of changing the oil from one CC to another. Saves $$$$$
I've got a pretty good selection of hole saws, They really don't work ALL that well on thin sheet metal. If I was going to cut a hole in the side panel I'd just put a stick of 1/8" 6011 in the BUZZBOX, turn it up to 200A and BURN a hole in it.
KRAIG - That official IHC corresondence re: 169's w/manual lift....Question about "Jlll Dealers".... What the heck is a Jlll dealer? PAUL? CHARLIE? Anyone? I heard a lot of acronyms @ IHC but never that one!
I like that idea of changing the oil from one CC to another. Saves $$$$$
I've got a pretty good selection of hole saws, They really don't work ALL that well on thin sheet metal. If I was going to cut a hole in the side panel I'd just put a stick of 1/8" 6011 in the BUZZBOX, turn it up to 200A and BURN a hole in it.
KRAIG - That official IHC corresondence re: 169's w/manual lift....Question about "Jlll Dealers".... What the heck is a Jlll dealer? PAUL? CHARLIE? Anyone? I heard a lot of acronyms @ IHC but never that one!
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Kentuck:
A couple of days ago.........
Jeff:
Actually the gear drive starter has more starting power and the stator charging system is a lot less PITA to work on....The S/G is a compromise that used technology appropriate for it's time...
A couple of days ago.........
Jeff:
Actually the gear drive starter has more starting power and the stator charging system is a lot less PITA to work on....The S/G is a compromise that used technology appropriate for it's time...
Well, I got the grenade gears out and none too soon. Both were very loose on their shafts. Most of the needle bearings were still where they should be but a few escaped. I have a question for the balance gear pros. I bent the shaft back a little hitting the gear to break it. Is this going to be a problem? It felt secure after the gear removal. You can actually see it it the photo showing the bottom of the engine.
Here are the gears thenselves.
I guess I have one nice looking paper weight now. Thanks again for all of the input and help....Wayne
Here are the gears thenselves.
I guess I have one nice looking paper weight now. Thanks again for all of the input and help....Wayne
Frank S,
It sounds like your engine is starving for gas if it dies when you apply a load and the governer trys to compensate. Once you get the governer spring back to where it should be and adjust the governer, you might open up the High Speed needle a bit like a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to see if that helps.
Dennis F,
J-111 is a dealer designation number based on the type of dealer contract a person had with IH. Some dealers may have had more than one for example if they sold both Ag Equipment and Motor Trucks. IH used those numbers extensively on all correspondence letters put out for mass distribution as way to determine what dealers it was suppose to go to. I think Ag dealers had a #J-120 contract and so they would receive all correspondence letters intended for J-120 dealers. There were Ag Equipment dealers, Motor Truck, Heavy Construction Equipment, Outdoor Power Products and probably other types I don't recall or even know about. J-111 obviously had to do with Cub Cadets/Outdoor Power Products.
It sounds like your engine is starving for gas if it dies when you apply a load and the governer trys to compensate. Once you get the governer spring back to where it should be and adjust the governer, you might open up the High Speed needle a bit like a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to see if that helps.
Dennis F,
J-111 is a dealer designation number based on the type of dealer contract a person had with IH. Some dealers may have had more than one for example if they sold both Ag Equipment and Motor Trucks. IH used those numbers extensively on all correspondence letters put out for mass distribution as way to determine what dealers it was suppose to go to. I think Ag dealers had a #J-120 contract and so they would receive all correspondence letters intended for J-120 dealers. There were Ag Equipment dealers, Motor Truck, Heavy Construction Equipment, Outdoor Power Products and probably other types I don't recall or even know about. J-111 obviously had to do with Cub Cadets/Outdoor Power Products.
I thought I would post some pics of my 102 so you guys believe I am an actual Cub owner. LOL! I just finished getting it back together. It has a freshly rebuilt k241 in her. For the rebuild I had to bore it out to except a 12hp piston because it was already .030 over. I installed new valve guides and of course new rod. I had to grind the crank .01 under because the journal was grooved up. I am fortunate I am able to do all the machine work myself. That is a real money saver. I know the color of the Cub is off. The PO painted it. Looks kinda funny with the engine the correct color, or maybe I'm wrong and it is the other way around. I also rebuilt the PTO too. The PO had no wear button on the PTO lever and the PTO and lever got tore up. Well this is my first cub and hopefully more to come.
Wayne Shytle
Unless you are putting balance gears back in the K ,I would not worry about a bent shaft that was used to support them. As long as the crank clears your good to go.The balance gears that I have removed I have seen very little difference with vibrations. They all vibrate.
Ken
She called and, I think to protect some plans for later this week. I see she bought another shrub of some kind and will need me to help plant it.
Unless you are putting balance gears back in the K ,I would not worry about a bent shaft that was used to support them. As long as the crank clears your good to go.The balance gears that I have removed I have seen very little difference with vibrations. They all vibrate.
Ken
She called and, I think to protect some plans for later this week. I see she bought another shrub of some kind and will need me to help plant it.
RON - Thanks for explaining that. I had my hands full with "Special Assignments" from the Boss's, never got too close to the customer and/or dealer side of the business. I had access to branch & dealer order numbers and knew the screens on the computer to get detailed info on them but since FARMALL was strictly AG.... had no knowledge of that.
WAYNE - Not sure I'm an expert, but IMHO, those bare stub shafts won't hurt a thing. I ran a K301 for about 12-13 yrs with bare shafts in it. Got a K321 thats run 3-4 yrs with bare shafts. The crankcase wall thickness around those machined boss's the shafts press into are thin, hope the wall didn't crack by the bent shaft.
I think the imbalanced rotation of the gear/weights is what causes the bearings to wear & fail quicker than the rest of the engine. To service an engine with balance weights "Properly" I suppose the shafts, bearings AND gears would all have to be replaced. A can't remember if the bearings have an outer race, shield, or sleeve over them or not but I seem to remember the needles rode directly on the smooth bore in the gears, which would wear. And with manufacturing tolerances now days, even new parts may not meet specs. If the bearing has an outer sleeve the gear should be reusable.
WAYNE - Not sure I'm an expert, but IMHO, those bare stub shafts won't hurt a thing. I ran a K301 for about 12-13 yrs with bare shafts in it. Got a K321 thats run 3-4 yrs with bare shafts. The crankcase wall thickness around those machined boss's the shafts press into are thin, hope the wall didn't crack by the bent shaft.
I think the imbalanced rotation of the gear/weights is what causes the bearings to wear & fail quicker than the rest of the engine. To service an engine with balance weights "Properly" I suppose the shafts, bearings AND gears would all have to be replaced. A can't remember if the bearings have an outer race, shield, or sleeve over them or not but I seem to remember the needles rode directly on the smooth bore in the gears, which would wear. And with manufacturing tolerances now days, even new parts may not meet specs. If the bearing has an outer sleeve the gear should be reusable.
