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Archive through May 09, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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i am in the process of refurbing a 109 while trying to start it,it started driving forward on its own.after i lubed up the linkage to hydro it seems better.was something stuck?like the swash plate? thanks for any insite
 
One thing I don't like about my sleeve hitch is when I raise it while hooked to the trailer, I have to be careful because it'll be at too much of an angle unlike the cat 0 where the hitch ball would be more straight or parallel to the ground.
 
Well, I ran into a couple new problems with my 1250 refurb (a couple weeks ago I discovered a crack in the block of my K301). I got a replacement block and finally started putting it back together today. The problem is that my first block had the dipstick mounted to the side of the block, at the bottom, right, front corner. The replacement block has the dipstick tube on the top of the right front shoulder of the block. The "problem" is the dipstick tube interferes with the top engine tin (that sits over the head). Can I just trim that corner off the tin to fit it around the tube? I think I could get a pretty decent fit.

The second problem I had was when I put the rear bearing plate on - one of the four bolts snapped off. Unless I misread the manual, the torque spec is 35 ft lbs, and the other three all clicked the torque wrench, but this one snapped. Any idea why this would happen? Any suggestions on the 'best' way to remove the broken bolt? There's about 1/4" of it sticking out of the block - should I be able to grab it with vise grip and turn it out? Or will it just break off at block-level? Is 35 ft lbs too much torque. This is my first engine tear-down, so I'll take any and all advice.

Oh, and Happy Mother's Day to all the moms out there (in about 20 minutes.
 
Hello We have a 1811 cub that worked fine last year now when we engage the PTO it will not stay engaged it will run as long as you hold the pto in the up position we have changed the pto switch and put a used relay on but it still the same even crossed jumped the seat switch ,the relay is 3 pronged the butoom one is always hot and when you engage the deck the outside is hot you can jump across the top 2 and it will run any ideas the serial #772901 any ideas will be greatly appreciatedthanks rick
 
I was going to try my new 1000 for mowing today... after I got a mule drive hooked up and my 44A deck and fired up... flipped the pto switch and nothin'. Huh. I can see the ammeter slightly deflect when I flip the switch so that mesns its getting power right? Is there some kind of actuator that might just be stuck? And how in the heck do you get at the pto to check it out?!? Take off the front nose of the tractor? Thanks for any advise...

And Kendel... I think you missunderstood, I am not trying to use a hydrostat for a log splitter my 1000 isnt a hydro of course. I didnt know if there was an easy way of adding hydraulics to it for lift and then if that could be used for a splitter to. Well I'd be satisfied one thing at a time answered lets just start with the possibility of adding a hyd lift, thanks!
 
Should there be ANY play where a NF hydraulic pump pulley slides onto it's shaft? I can get the pulley to spin true with the set screw set. But with the slightest pressure placed horizontal to vertical and it flops like a politician. Is this a case where the drive pulley on the engine will keep it running true?

Thanks,
 
Is there a faq somewhere that explains the 1/9 type identification system for the cubs? Thanks, Marshall
 
Marshall:
Do you mean the shorthand referrals such as "the 1X9 series" (or "1X8 and 1X9") ?
 
Rick - Check the safety switch behind the dash for the no cut in reverse feature. It will cause the problem as well, or someones rig job to bypass the feature may be failing.
 
Greg Lippert (Glippert) If you have a welder there i would weld a nut fast to the broken bolt and get it out that way. i did the same thing last week and a rear end bolt on a 1862. The heat tin on the head won`t hurt to trim for the dipstick tube. Have a great day . my .02 later Don T
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Bobby, nice engine! Clean up the side of the block and epoxy plexy-glass to the hole --- the kids will like seeing everything moving!!! Hate to mess with a good running engine.
 
Richard P.
I think you'll find that either the shaft on the pump or the pulley itself is worn. It should be tight on both surfaces.
I have heard of guys drilling the pulley hole and adding a bushing, or machining the shaft and adding a bushing to remove the flop effect.
 
Greg, make sure the block has the holes to mount up the PTO clutch. It sounds like you have a block for a 1X9 series or older instead of the AQS needed for a Quietline series.
 
Charlie, The shaft mics to exactly .5 inch and is consistent the entire length. If that sounds like a good shaft I'll be buying a new pulley from you.
 
Just got it this morning. It's not CC but a have a couple that will pull it.

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Fifty bucks.
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well after mothers day dinner ill be working on my mower deck again this afternoon,im gonna try redoing my deck hagner its kinda wahper jawed..
also gonna try relevleing, if anyone has any ideas about the streaking on the left side,,speak up ,,,jared
 

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