Archive through May 09, 2009
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Probably a silly question but is there an easy way to add hydraulic lift to a gear drive cub like my 1000? I assume the hyd lifts are part of the hydrostatic trans but not sure if there were add on ones. And speakinf of adding on hydraulics has anyone ever rigged up something for a wood splitter?
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Matt G:
"Enlighten me...what grade of steel is that, typically?"
That's the problem with the hardware store stuff - nobody knows for sure. It's been diagnosed as low carbon, probably recycled steel of varying hardness due to the low quality furnace and rolling processes. The stuff comes in long coils, and is straightened before being cut to length and coated. The lathe guys complain about hard and soft spots, size variations, etc. The point was they're ripping us off on price ("but it's soooo convenient") for a low quality product...
Tristan:
Not enough pressure and /or volume from the hydro pump to run a log splitter. A good two stage splitter pump runs a low pressure/high volume stage when pumping low pressure, and then shifts to a high pressure/low volume stage as pressure builds up. If you want to try fabbing something, start with the right angle gearbox from a QA36 or 42 snowthrower and drive a splitter pump from that... (although I question using the Cub engine for stationery power duty) (ooh ooh, I bet that doesn't sit well with some)
"Enlighten me...what grade of steel is that, typically?"
That's the problem with the hardware store stuff - nobody knows for sure. It's been diagnosed as low carbon, probably recycled steel of varying hardness due to the low quality furnace and rolling processes. The stuff comes in long coils, and is straightened before being cut to length and coated. The lathe guys complain about hard and soft spots, size variations, etc. The point was they're ripping us off on price ("but it's soooo convenient") for a low quality product...
Tristan:
Not enough pressure and /or volume from the hydro pump to run a log splitter. A good two stage splitter pump runs a low pressure/high volume stage when pumping low pressure, and then shifts to a high pressure/low volume stage as pressure builds up. If you want to try fabbing something, start with the right angle gearbox from a QA36 or 42 snowthrower and drive a splitter pump from that... (although I question using the Cub engine for stationery power duty) (ooh ooh, I bet that doesn't sit well with some)
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kendell-
Interesting. I wonder if the hardware store aluminum has similar issues.
Interesting. I wonder if the hardware store aluminum has similar issues.
Over height would for me be over four inches. Here's what is happening. Engine speed stays the same. The enginge runs on the upper end of the throttle, but not to the limit (about 3/4). Going up hill the blades turn pretty consistantly but on a down hill run the blades will slow down to almost a full stop in a normal lawn, thick grass, maybe five inches high and cutting to four or a little less. As soon as I clear a thick patch of lawn (which may be 200 feet in length) the belts will catch on the pulleys and resume full rotational speed. (As if I cross over from grass to a driveway with a flat hard surface.) If I return over the same path I just cut, but up hill, the blades cut much more efficiently. I've checked the tensioner, and the tensioner spring. The pulleys are greased and rotate freely without noticible difficulty in turning. The blades are one time sharpened almost sharp, and balanced. It has to be the belts or something to do with the transfer of power to the belts. If I look at the pulley rotation on the top of the deck in a down hill run they slow to a almost complete stop. The drive belt is moving but likely slipping but I don't see it from my driver's position. Will tightening the pulley tensioner on the front do anything? Is it possible that the pulley diameter is reduced such an amount that they no longer provide the tension required? Late summer and fall presents the same problem but far less noticible as the grass is dryer. I'm open to suggestions.
I
I
Dennis,
Thanks for the feedback.
Aaron's Xtreme sleeve hitch is really nice. Not only with the 5 holes matching up to the rear end plate but an added 2 braces on the side extending to axle housing bolts.
He wrote on another thread that he has modified it to be universal for aluminum rears, but hasn't posted a pic yet. It looks real solid. I guess I'm just over cautious about damaging the housing if I'm plowing and hit a rock or something.
Based on your comments that the combo of the QA42A and grader blade were a bit too much I'm leaning towards getting the above bracket.
Yes, an end loader would be nice...
Actually my neighbor has a good sized newer Deere 4X4 diesel with FEL and snow blade if things get too deep around here.
Still wondering what the main advantage of a 3pt is over a sleeve hitch. My thought is that a 3pt keeps the implement fairly vertical as it is lifted and dropped, or the upper link can be adjusted to add a bit of pivot. With a sleeve hitch, the implement pivots like a hinge. I don't have the experience to translate how this affects pulling a bottom plow or other implements though. I see that Aaron has a variety of 3pt implements but right now I can't imagine collecting that many implements... I think a sleeve hitch will suit my needs.
Good to hear the positive opinion about the Gator blades. I haven't had a chance to use my 50C deck yet and I'm anxious to try it out after the repairs.
With the transmission, no odd noises, no clutch problems with disengaging. I pulled the shaft cover and usually wait until the shaft just about stops rotating before trying to pop it into gear. If it doesn't slide in I let up on the clutch a bit to rotate the shaft some more and try again. Just seems to be a bit more trouble than it should be. I'll swap in some Hytran and see what happens. And yeah, I hope that there is no cover up going on...
Thanks again for your help.
Thanks for the feedback.
Aaron's Xtreme sleeve hitch is really nice. Not only with the 5 holes matching up to the rear end plate but an added 2 braces on the side extending to axle housing bolts.
He wrote on another thread that he has modified it to be universal for aluminum rears, but hasn't posted a pic yet. It looks real solid. I guess I'm just over cautious about damaging the housing if I'm plowing and hit a rock or something.
Based on your comments that the combo of the QA42A and grader blade were a bit too much I'm leaning towards getting the above bracket.
Yes, an end loader would be nice...
Still wondering what the main advantage of a 3pt is over a sleeve hitch. My thought is that a 3pt keeps the implement fairly vertical as it is lifted and dropped, or the upper link can be adjusted to add a bit of pivot. With a sleeve hitch, the implement pivots like a hinge. I don't have the experience to translate how this affects pulling a bottom plow or other implements though. I see that Aaron has a variety of 3pt implements but right now I can't imagine collecting that many implements... I think a sleeve hitch will suit my needs.
Good to hear the positive opinion about the Gator blades. I haven't had a chance to use my 50C deck yet and I'm anxious to try it out after the repairs.
With the transmission, no odd noises, no clutch problems with disengaging. I pulled the shaft cover and usually wait until the shaft just about stops rotating before trying to pop it into gear. If it doesn't slide in I let up on the clutch a bit to rotate the shaft some more and try again. Just seems to be a bit more trouble than it should be. I'll swap in some Hytran and see what happens. And yeah, I hope that there is no cover up going on...
Thanks again for your help.
Sometimes you have to know the vocabulary. What I have or rather don't any longer have is a Idler Ratchet for my 1450. My 44A deck operators manual shows the metal device, but not the part itself. I find no mention of it in the manual. I'm certain it is gone but I have no idea how long ago. It seems to me it was there last week because I wanted to check the tension, but ...well all I want to know now is how fast can I find a replacement and how is it installed? It appears that it is attached to the pulley on the left side facing the front, but again I'm accepting assistance. Anyone have a part number? Thanks to all.
Gary S:
Everythng on a tractor is <u>always</u> located from the position of being in the seat! Therefore, that Idler Ratchet is on the Right Side!!
The part is illustrated in the IH CPE-2 Parts Manual for Cub Cadet Equipment. Available from www.binderbooks.com
The part number is IH-59590-C2, Ratchet, Idler
Myron B
Everythng on a tractor is <u>always</u> located from the position of being in the seat! Therefore, that Idler Ratchet is on the Right Side!!
The part is illustrated in the IH CPE-2 Parts Manual for Cub Cadet Equipment. Available from www.binderbooks.com
The part number is IH-59590-C2, Ratchet, Idler
Myron B
Gary S.
It certainly sounds like the mower deck might be moving forward in relation to the tractor when you are going downhill. If the deck can somehow move forward the belt will lose tension.
I would not think that the lack of an idler rachet would be your main problem. The mower deck should stay the same distance from the mule drive pulleys at all times. When everything is set up properly, the tension pulley and the idler pulley are equal distance from the front of the tractor. The belt running from the front of the mule drive pulleys and over the PTO pulley is all in one plane. The belt from the bottom of the mule drive pulleys and around the deck drive pulley is also in one plane (almost perpendicular to the to the first plane. The mule drive tensioner spring should provide proper belt tension when the mule drive pulleys are in this location.
Now, the idler rachet does two things IMO. First, it allows a visual check that the mule drive pulleys are in the proper alignment and that the belt is under proper tension. Second, it has a "catch" that allows the tension to be removed from the belt (for belt changes, etc.). You could run a mower without the idler rachet and have no effects upon the mower operation.
I would look for other probems that are allowing the mule drive and/or deck to move forward and backwards.
Just my $.02. I could be wrong!
It certainly sounds like the mower deck might be moving forward in relation to the tractor when you are going downhill. If the deck can somehow move forward the belt will lose tension.
I would not think that the lack of an idler rachet would be your main problem. The mower deck should stay the same distance from the mule drive pulleys at all times. When everything is set up properly, the tension pulley and the idler pulley are equal distance from the front of the tractor. The belt running from the front of the mule drive pulleys and over the PTO pulley is all in one plane. The belt from the bottom of the mule drive pulleys and around the deck drive pulley is also in one plane (almost perpendicular to the to the first plane. The mule drive tensioner spring should provide proper belt tension when the mule drive pulleys are in this location.
Now, the idler rachet does two things IMO. First, it allows a visual check that the mule drive pulleys are in the proper alignment and that the belt is under proper tension. Second, it has a "catch" that allows the tension to be removed from the belt (for belt changes, etc.). You could run a mower without the idler rachet and have no effects upon the mower operation.
I would look for other probems that are allowing the mule drive and/or deck to move forward and backwards.
Just my $.02. I could be wrong!
,well ive been havin mowing issues with my 1650.it has a 44 inch deck and mowed ok last year now that i took off the garding tools it dosnt seem to mow wotrh a darn. it seems to cut level as can be but leaves a strip about 1/4 inch wide on the left side.now ive tried i think everything to correct this problem but the only thing i could think of is one of the blades is to short ,,, i dunno? i know they are supposed to be the same,,. has any one got any suggestions?,,have a good one,,jared
Hello All;
My 128 that I gave away two years ago came home today,...with a little piece missing. Can anyone guess what happened? This tractor ran great and was an awesome plow machine! We made many good food plots for deer hunting with this machine.
The odd thing about it is that it still runs. Can't beat a wideframe!
My 128 that I gave away two years ago came home today,...with a little piece missing. Can anyone guess what happened? This tractor ran great and was an awesome plow machine! We made many good food plots for deer hunting with this machine.
The odd thing about it is that it still runs. Can't beat a wideframe!
Bobby B., HYMMMM mid 80's Yota extra-cab pulling a 128. Ya can't beat that rig. Well, I guess My 128 does'nt have the vent hole!! I can send ya that left front marker assy, if ya want. But, ya gotta send me the LESS rust formula for the bed...
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