Eric, remove the fuel tank and brackets and you should be able to get to it from the back side. It'll be tight in there but you should be able to get to it.
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Archive through May 05, 2006
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kraig- thanks for the info, guess I kinda did it differently- I got the center blade level front to back and then got the outer blades level side to side. I'll be trying her out tomarrow, see what it looks like. Dave
Chris,
If you buy a stolen cub and the original owner owner comes to claim it, I believe you are out the cash you paid and the original owner will get his cub back. The owner should have kept the pay as compensation for the ransom paid, and legally should have returned the property.
But then I am no lawyer............
If you buy a stolen cub and the original owner owner comes to claim it, I believe you are out the cash you paid and the original owner will get his cub back. The owner should have kept the pay as compensation for the ransom paid, and legally should have returned the property.
But then I am no lawyer............
Jim E,
You shoulda hopped on your Cub and run down there. I'll betcha they would have stopped to look you over!
You shoulda hopped on your Cub and run down there. I'll betcha they would have stopped to look you over!
Has anyone here done any engine work on the Kubota diesels? My dad's 1512 (782D) just sheared 3 of the counter sunk bolts that holds the PTO shaft to the fly wheel, the other 3 were loose and the PTO was flopping around and made a mess of the fan.
I was wondering what the tourq specs where for those bolts, are you suppose to use any thread locker on them? How about the bolts that hold the fly wheel on?
He just had the front seal replaced so we're pretty sure the dealer screwed up (either over or under tightends the bolts). Not only that but the front seal still seems to leak a bit, although it's nothing like it was.
I was wondering what the tourq specs where for those bolts, are you suppose to use any thread locker on them? How about the bolts that hold the fly wheel on?
He just had the front seal replaced so we're pretty sure the dealer screwed up (either over or under tightends the bolts). Not only that but the front seal still seems to leak a bit, although it's nothing like it was.
CHARLIE - Wyatt, Ken & I went to Our Chapter #4 Wisconsin plow day several years ago. They had a Special Place for Our little Cubbies... We got to plow the garden, about 2-3 acres. I also got some seat time on a Super M-TA which I hadn't been on one for about 35 years.... Wyatt & I were REALLY impressed with the 5288 FWA. He was pulling a #735 Vari-width 6-bottom plow, on-the-go adjustable from 14" to 22" furrow width. The one pass He must have been plowing 12-14" deep. AWESOME vehicle!
William,
CC Specialities is still around. I've had problems receiving email from Travis in the past and had to use my wife's email address on Yahoo a couple of times to receive messages from him. So you might try a different email address if possible. Hope this helps.
CC Specialities is still around. I've had problems receiving email from Travis in the past and had to use my wife's email address on Yahoo a couple of times to receive messages from him. So you might try a different email address if possible. Hope this helps.
Man, you gotta love mice that think they found a new home!
jmetzinger
Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2005
- Messages
- 10
- displayname
- Jeff Metzinger
Guys, I need a rebuild kit for a #30 carb off of my 149. I also need to fix the throttle shaft play. Two questions..Does the throttle shaft repair kit come with the carb re-build parts also, or do I need a seperate carb kit with the needle/seat,gaskets, etc.? Who would have these parts in stock (Kohler dealer, Cub/MTD dealer) where I could order them from? Thanks, Jeff
Jeff M- you can order from either dealer, but by my kohler books the throttleshaft kit is no longer available(since '98)but that doesnt mean someone doesnt have it.does that carb have the clamp style idle adjustment stop set up on it?(is there a piece that clamps on the throttleshaft).
the kohler part number for the old kit is 2575705,the cub dealers put a kh in front of that,at least in my area. if you cant find a kit dont throw out that carb just yet.but if you do you will have to by two kits if you want the inletneedle and seat,that kit number is 2575702...T
the kohler part number for the old kit is 2575705,the cub dealers put a kh in front of that,at least in my area. if you cant find a kit dont throw out that carb just yet.but if you do you will have to by two kits if you want the inletneedle and seat,that kit number is 2575702...T
AO: I think you will find that those Kohler Kits just changed numbers in '98 or so. The old numbers aren't there any more, ya gotta use the new part numbers, which I don't have handy at the moment. Its been posted about a zillion times but I'm sure someone will post that chart again.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Hey fellas... a little help!
last season my dad had the motor swapped out of his 782, and had a command CH23 (23 hp) installed. it runs like a champ, cant even make it work hard at all...
here in lies the problem... the safety switches are not wired right anymore. I am not sure if the mower will start with the pto switch on or not... that's a separate issue, i think.
Right now, as it is wired, you sit on the seat and start the tractor as normal. if you are still sitting on the seat and turn off the key, it shuts down fine. If you get off of the seat (w/o pto on) tractor will not turn off with key
you MUST push on or sit in seat to get key to turn off the tractor... the s/n is 704,xxx (some number, dont remember exact, but it's this wiring diagram:
http://www.cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams/782.jpg
can anybody help??
It would seem to me that perhaps, the seat switch is wired to the battery terminal of the switch rather than the ignition... when the circuit is open, (sit on seat) tractor will start and work fine, and when you turn the key off, that works too. now if the seat switch was wired into the battery terminal, and you do not sit on the seat (closing the circuit) then the battery current would have a path back to the coil to keep the tractor running, rather than grounding the coil to kill the motor
does that make sense?
(Message edited by ctrost on May 08, 2006)
(Message edited by ctrost on May 08, 2006)
last season my dad had the motor swapped out of his 782, and had a command CH23 (23 hp) installed. it runs like a champ, cant even make it work hard at all...
here in lies the problem... the safety switches are not wired right anymore. I am not sure if the mower will start with the pto switch on or not... that's a separate issue, i think.
Right now, as it is wired, you sit on the seat and start the tractor as normal. if you are still sitting on the seat and turn off the key, it shuts down fine. If you get off of the seat (w/o pto on) tractor will not turn off with key
you MUST push on or sit in seat to get key to turn off the tractor... the s/n is 704,xxx (some number, dont remember exact, but it's this wiring diagram:
http://www.cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams/782.jpg
can anybody help??
It would seem to me that perhaps, the seat switch is wired to the battery terminal of the switch rather than the ignition... when the circuit is open, (sit on seat) tractor will start and work fine, and when you turn the key off, that works too. now if the seat switch was wired into the battery terminal, and you do not sit on the seat (closing the circuit) then the battery current would have a path back to the coil to keep the tractor running, rather than grounding the coil to kill the motor
does that make sense?
(Message edited by ctrost on May 08, 2006)
(Message edited by ctrost on May 08, 2006)
