Archive through May 05, 2006

[rbedell]

Colin:

Here is a Diagram of the Seat Switch for the 782.
It is Part No: 725-3060.

Your understand of the function of this switch is backwards. NORMALLY OPEN means the contacts are open with no contact on the plunger (no one seating on the seat) with this in a normal relaxed position. The contacts close when someone sits on the seat.

 

[ctrost]

Roland,

If the seat switch works opposite of what I thought (normally open is when no-one sits on the seat), then would'nt running a wire from pin E on the pto switch over to the red side of the seat switch keep the tractor running with pto off if someone got off the seat?

like so:

 

[rbedell]

Colin:

If the Diagrams are a bit too small or too fuzzy for you to read, I can send a more clear and larger version. There is a Upload Limit or Restriction here of 50K. When I reduce down to that size, pic's can be a little difficult to read.

 

[rbedell]

Colin:

YES, by adding a wire as indicated would keep the tractor running, with the PTO off and no one on the seat.

See Revision:

I am assuming, you are referencing the first Diagram with the Replacement of the Ignition Switch.

(Message edited by RBedell on May 10, 2006)

 

[ctrost]

Roland-

thanks for your help!

So this should be a final wiring schematic, with working B-E circuit, and the blue side of the brake switch going through to the solenoid (graphical representation, since starter and solenoid are housed on the CH23)

like this:

 

[rbedell]

Colin:

Here is a Revised Diagram using your suggestion, which by the way, was a Good One.

I am sorry for the confusion about the First Diagram I submitted (one with the Repl Sw). The difference between the Starter Circuit on the KT-17 Diagram and the CH-23 is, the KT-17 has a seperate Starter and Solenoid, while the CH-23 it is all incorporated into one unit. Thus, the Blue wire has to go to the Brake (Neutral or Safety) switch. The Starter Solenoid on the KT-17 is a single component, but for illustration purposes, I seperated the HD contacts and the 12V coil so it would be easier to trace. My original schematic shows the contacts and the coil as sperate. Again, I am sorry for the confusion.

(Message edited by RBedell on May 10, 2006)

 

[bmcmeen]

Alright, another one!!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Man Arrested for Drunken Mower Driving

By Associated Press
Published May 10, 2006, 6:58 AM CDT

VERMILION, Ohio -- Police have arrested a man accused of operating lawnmower while drunk. Dondi Bowles, 50, was arrested about 9:45 p.m. Friday as he drove the mower on a sidewalk.

Police said he had used the mower to drive to a store about a mile from his home and was arrested on his way back. Police had the lawn mower towed.

Police said a breath test showed that Bowles' blood alcohol level was 0.144 percent, above Ohio's limit of 0.08 percent.

Police said it was Bowles' third drunken driving related arrest in six months.

Vermilion is a Lake Erie town about 40 miles west of Cleveland.

Information from: The Plain Dealer, http://www.cleveland.com

Copyright © 2006, The Associated Press<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[ctrost]

Roland-

I know the solenoid is all in the starter now, but the flow of current has to come from the S terminal on switch, through C to D on pto switch, then from D to Brake switch, then from brake switch it has to go to the starter solenoid.... so

(Message edited by ctrost on May 10, 2006)

 

[ctrost]

Then for tracing purposes, this should also be correct:

 

[rbedell]

Colin:

Here is a Simplified CH-23 Schematic for the Start Circuit.

12V leaves the Ign Sw on terminal S when you turn the key. It then goes to the PTO Sw (terminal C). In the off position, contacts C & D are made. Then it goes to the Brake Switch. You have to step on the brake pedal thus making the contacts of that switch. Then goes to the Blue Wire from your CH-23 and energizies the Starter Solenoid Coil. Thus, this will turn the motor over.

 

[ctrost]

Yeah, got it.

Just wanted to make the diagram as easy to follow as possible.

so I should be OK with what I posted

 

[rbedell]

Colin:

Here is the Internal for the Command Starter.

BTW....I would NOT have that Red Wire going to the (+) Battery Post as you have it. This will provide constant power to the Ignition Module as well as the Voltage Regulator. This might cause component failure issues as well as running your battery dead.

(Message edited by RBedell on May 10, 2006)

 

[ctrost]

So if one were to assume the starter/solenoid is on the motor,

(assuming the red/blue leads shown going to the motor feed the starter solenoid and starter/etc on motor)

(Message edited by ctrost on May 10, 2006)

 

[kide]

Brian:
"Police had the lawn mower towed."....
Hope it wasn't a hydro... Oh yeah - the tow truck driver probably dollied it..

 

[hdshine]

All,
I have a mower belt question.
My 126 is 5 hard-driving hours away so I need to guess the belt size so I can bring one in. This is a belt to take power off the front PTO back to the mower deck. Like a fool, I never measured the mower deck so I don't know what I've got. The last time I was out there I drove 2 hours to get a belt from NAPA but it was way to small (reason below, I think). I tried emailing one of the suppliers/sponsors but got no reply. My manuals tell me nothing.

Here is what I know. Its a 126 with a mower deck that easily removes with the pins in the back and the hanger slots in the front. There is a cast iron nose in the front. The belt that broke off was a 80" x 1/2" belt with a true "V" shape. The NAPA guy mis-measured the broken belt and gave me a 79" x 1/2" belt that was "D" in shape. This was way to short - much shorter than the 1" diff. I'm thinking that the "D" shape didn't lock into the pulleys as much as a "V" shaped belt so the functional length was shorter if you get my drift.

Anyway, if someone can help me guess the correct length for this belt and, perhaps more importantly, whether the "V" vs. "D" shape is critical I would appreciate it.

Sorry for the long, miss-informed post but you guys have gotten me out of binds before. I really need to start cutting the blood weed before it gets away from me again.

 

[bgolden]

I removed a 3pt hitch from a 108 to install it on a 149 and found the manual and hydraulic lift bar connections are different. Is there an extra connection link that is used on the 149 that may be called a 3pt pin plate or something similiar that I need?
Help will be appreciated.

 

[lbuttke]

Need some help,
I purchased a new start/gen to replace the one on my 72.
The old one would get hot enough to cook an egg.
After installing the new s/g I ran the tractor for a few minutes and the new s/g also gets hot.
I have 11.75v at the battery with engine off. I get 12.74v at battery with motor running and 13.45v at the A terminal on the s/g.
What could be causeing the s/g to heat up this much?
the s/g on my 102 only gets warm to the touch with the same readings at the battery and A terminal.

 

[bmcmeen]

KG Ide -

Exactly what I thought.


PHEW, I tell ya what, that was a hair-raising 7.5 hours. DSL just came back up...

 

[bmcmeen]

Bill G. -

You probably forgot to remove the one from the 108's lift handle

The 3-points are exactly the same.

 

[digger]

Dave S,
Depending on which deck you have, All are V Belts.
38" IH-473462-R4 - 3/8 X 81"

42" IH-490489-R2 - 3/8 X 80"

48" IH-489397-R3 - 3/8 X 75 1/2"