Archive through May 04, 2011

[thill]

Help

Replacing the head on a K341. Stupid me I dropped a bolt (the last one of course) down the metal work shoud and it dropped all the way down below the flywheel / fan.

Anyone have really long skinny fingers and is available in Northern NJ right NOW??!!!

The super secret tip on retrieving it without total engine removal would really be appreciated!

 

[lpalma]

Tom Hill.
The only way I see it is to remove the drive line drive cup and grass screen.Then you should be able to get it out.I have a magnet on a long rod to do these things.

 

[thill]

NEVERMIND!!!

Some sort of miracle as I got the bolt on the second try with my magnetic flex pickup. The washer still eludes me after about 30 attempts so it is staying or becoming a flying projectile. Glad to have spares handy!

PS I thank my father for the skills,patience and a lot of tools to be able to do all the repairs on this great machine. He being an engineer would have so appreciated the machines that are IH Cubs.

 

[lpwood]

I haven't posted in a while, but sure have enjoyed all the stuff that goes on with the forum.
My 1980 IH 782 quit charging the battery last week and was hoping someone could tell me some tests to determine what could be wrong. The ampmeter needle doesn't move and the battery goes flat. I haven't checked the connections yet, so this is pretty early into the diagnosis. Are there tests I can perform with the engine running? My wiring diagram shows one gray wire running form the alternator straight to the ignition switch. Then from the ignition switch to the ampmeter and on to the starter solenoid. The diagram does not show the voltage regulator at all in the diagram. My serial number is 678512. Could it possibly be the voltage regulator?? If I disconnect the battery while the engine is running, will the engine continue to run if it is, in fact charging or will the engine stop? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Phil Wood

 

[aaytay]

Well, we know it's not a set of wheel weights..

 

[dross]

Dave S, Then you have a problem Cause with the compression release the exhaust valve should be just off it's seat at TDC.

 

[cledford]

question re. Electric PTO field coil insulation repair...

I have 2 working PTOs (at least they worked on the tractor...) and both have cracked and flaking "potting material" insulation. I'm attempting to get my 1450 back online (hence the recent flurry of questions) and need some advice on repairing the field coil. I'm going to attempt the "better" of the 2 first.

As you can see from the pic - there is about about a 1.5" inch section of damage - part where the coil is exposed, the other where the insulation is peeling up.

I've viewed other threads that state to use JBweld to re-insulate the damaged area - but I've got a question (see picture below) - is it ok to get JBweld down into the areas indicated in red? In other words, is is OK for the JBWeld to cover the bad area and get down into the gap between the outer edge of the coil and the metal housing (I would just cover affected area and scrape the JBWeld level with housing) or would this prevent thing from fitting back together correctly, requiring me to fashion some sort "dam" between the inner and outer edges of the coil and housing (gap highlighted in red) - so the JBWeld only sat on top of the coil?

Thanks,

-Calvin

 

[wshytle]

Calvin-

I'm not much help with the actual electric pto but I've read dicussions on the use of two part epoxy for this repair. J B Weld may conduct electricity so I wouldn't use it until I found out for sure.

Others will chime in eventually with more educated answers...good luck.

 

[digger]

Wayne S.
The least you could do when you shut the place down, is to turn the lights off when ya leave!

 

[wshytle]

Charlie-

Did I break something?

If something I did is the reason no one has posted since yesterday evening I'd like to know.