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Archive through May 04, 2011
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Rod, here's another one that was in a "Canadian Farming" magazine from 1962 (I believe it was sponsored by <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>.) I can send the full resolution scan in an email if you like. Just let me know.
Oh, and here's the front cover of the magazine it came from.
Oh, and here's the front cover of the magazine it came from.
Rod, I found another one. This one was from a National Geographic. I can email the full resolution scan of this one as well. Not sure of the date of the NG issue it came from. Craig C. owns the actual add that I scanned.
Craig C., do you recall the issue that the above add was in?
Craig C., do you recall the issue that the above add was in?
KRAIG,
That would be wonderful!
I'll have to start going page by page looking through those old mags. Maybe start buying more when I see them cheap.They are always enjoyable to look at anyway with all the old ads and such.
ROD
That would be wonderful!
I'll have to start going page by page looking through those old mags. Maybe start buying more when I see them cheap.They are always enjoyable to look at anyway with all the old ads and such.
ROD
This step in fixing the shifter has been
successful. I depressed the neck spring
and held it down with needle-nose vise
grip pliers. Then I drove the pin out with
a small punch; slid the collar, spring, and
cover up, and could see that the slotted dome
had broken loose from the lever. Next, I masked
the spot to protect it from spatter, and welded
it back in place. The weld isn't very pretty,
but it shifts fine. Before I reassemble it all,
(the back fender plate is a big hassle), should
I adjust it? There tends to be a little grinding
of gears.
successful. I depressed the neck spring
and held it down with needle-nose vise
grip pliers. Then I drove the pin out with
a small punch; slid the collar, spring, and
cover up, and could see that the slotted dome
had broken loose from the lever. Next, I masked
the spot to protect it from spatter, and welded
it back in place. The weld isn't very pretty,
but it shifts fine. Before I reassemble it all,
(the back fender plate is a big hassle), should
I adjust it? There tends to be a little grinding
of gears.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
D Trigg,
Your repair looks fine, but you may have only fixed part of the problem. Many times the inner cup is very worn and sometimes even cracked like this one...
When the wear like that the stud often has a groove worn into it as well. While you hav eit this far apart, it may be a good idea to pull the top cover and remove the shift gate. This allows for removal of the shifter lever and a full examination of the cup. It may allow you to make a repair now that you would have to make in 6 months and only have to take the fender deck off once.
There may be an FAQ on pulling the shift gate....
Your repair looks fine, but you may have only fixed part of the problem. Many times the inner cup is very worn and sometimes even cracked like this one...
When the wear like that the stud often has a groove worn into it as well. While you hav eit this far apart, it may be a good idea to pull the top cover and remove the shift gate. This allows for removal of the shifter lever and a full examination of the cup. It may allow you to make a repair now that you would have to make in 6 months and only have to take the fender deck off once.
There may be an FAQ on pulling the shift gate....
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
D Trigg ...I am thinking the grinding of the gears are coming from a worn clutch or out of adjustment clutch. the three wear points are the clutch lever, throw out bearing, and clutch hanger.
use the tab at the top that reads parts lookup and procede from there to see the parts break down.
use the tab at the top that reads parts lookup and procede from there to see the parts break down.
jfejedelem
Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2008
- Messages
- 22
- displayname
- James Fejedelem
I looked in the archive, but couldn't find what I was looking for. Can anyone tell me what the lift capacity of a 1450, or 1650. Specifically with a sleeve hitch. Thanks for any help Jimmy
Lonnie,
While I was at my brother's house he gave me a project to repair, retube, or replace a wheelbarrow tire, which had gone flat. Once I got it off the rim, I found that the reinforcing cords were actually loose inside the tire, there was little or no rubber holding them in place. Ended up just buying a whole wheel assembly.
Cub related, I decided to resurrect my ailing 125 over Easter weekend so dad could help with the mowing. I got it started (with difficulty) and Dad nursed it along for an hour until it ran out of gas and we couldn't get it restarted. While Dad finished up with the 129, I pulled the head for the first time on this particular tractor since I got it for free from a neighbor several years ago. I found the cylinder in pretty good shape, no scoring and as far as I could tell, only a couple thousandths of wear. The valves on the other hand were badly burned, the exhaust valve was tulip-ed and the intake was worn as well.
Going through my collection of Kohler engine parts, I found a couple of valves that the local NAPA dealer reground for $3.00 each, I lapped them in, and restored the valve seats to reasonable shape. The most difficult challenge seemed to be getting the valve retainers back in, even with the help of a valve spring compressor. Part of it seems to be fat finger syndrome, I was wondering if anyone had any special tricks up their sleeve, other than a dab of grease on the valve stem bottom.
I got the engine all back together yesterday, tried it out a bit, and put it to work this morning on the lawn. Plenty of power and no smoke, though I have been fiddling with the governor to get it to work right. Most of the trouble seems to be slop in the linkage, I looked at both the governor arm to carburetor linkages I had available, and both were worn about the same. I got it working better by putting the ball joint into a vise and carefully squeezed, hammered, and centerpunched various places around the ball to take out most of the slack, then put a little heavy oil on the ball.
I sold the bagger attachment, but I still have that weird seat on it. Perhaps I will put the extra Ohio Rubber seat I have on it.
While I was at my brother's house he gave me a project to repair, retube, or replace a wheelbarrow tire, which had gone flat. Once I got it off the rim, I found that the reinforcing cords were actually loose inside the tire, there was little or no rubber holding them in place. Ended up just buying a whole wheel assembly.
Cub related, I decided to resurrect my ailing 125 over Easter weekend so dad could help with the mowing. I got it started (with difficulty) and Dad nursed it along for an hour until it ran out of gas and we couldn't get it restarted. While Dad finished up with the 129, I pulled the head for the first time on this particular tractor since I got it for free from a neighbor several years ago. I found the cylinder in pretty good shape, no scoring and as far as I could tell, only a couple thousandths of wear. The valves on the other hand were badly burned, the exhaust valve was tulip-ed and the intake was worn as well.
Going through my collection of Kohler engine parts, I found a couple of valves that the local NAPA dealer reground for $3.00 each, I lapped them in, and restored the valve seats to reasonable shape. The most difficult challenge seemed to be getting the valve retainers back in, even with the help of a valve spring compressor. Part of it seems to be fat finger syndrome, I was wondering if anyone had any special tricks up their sleeve, other than a dab of grease on the valve stem bottom.
I got the engine all back together yesterday, tried it out a bit, and put it to work this morning on the lawn. Plenty of power and no smoke, though I have been fiddling with the governor to get it to work right. Most of the trouble seems to be slop in the linkage, I looked at both the governor arm to carburetor linkages I had available, and both were worn about the same. I got it working better by putting the ball joint into a vise and carefully squeezed, hammered, and centerpunched various places around the ball to take out most of the slack, then put a little heavy oil on the ball.
I sold the bagger attachment, but I still have that weird seat on it. Perhaps I will put the extra Ohio Rubber seat I have on it.
Thanks Jeff baker for guidance on clutch adjustment.
Thanks Steve Blunier for suggestions on other trouble spots to check.
I did make a feeble attempt to separate the H-ring from the shifter plate, but I didn't want to mess it up. With a good bright flashlight maybe I can inspect the cup better.
Thanks Steve Blunier for suggestions on other trouble spots to check.
I did make a feeble attempt to separate the H-ring from the shifter plate, but I didn't want to mess it up. With a good bright flashlight maybe I can inspect the cup better.
Rod & Dave,
I'll have you know!!!!!
As of today at 3:30 P.M. There is NO SNOW on the property!
I took the loader out and scraped it all up and dumped it on the neighbors side of the line!
I'll have you know!!!!!
As of today at 3:30 P.M. There is NO SNOW on the property!
I took the loader out and scraped it all up and dumped it on the neighbors side of the line!
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Charlie, you crack me up some times. Glad to know you've kept your sense of humor.
Jeremiah C.
I wasn't trying to be funny, I was DEAD serious about the snow!
I wasn't trying to be funny, I was DEAD serious about the snow!
J
jott
Guest
Snow!? Weres thats?
Gents need help!Still need help with a 129 engine rebuild.
Had the coil wired wrong, Rod helped with that.
Can't get her to run right. Still back firing and blowing black smoke no power and stalls. After fixed coil tried to start and still seems like timing is wrong.
Set it at .020, and checked to static timing it is were it should be. Pulled head AT TDC both valves closed.
Took breather off and checked valve clearance looks ok, May have to take down again see if timing marks are right, I had double check them.
Not sure what to do next
HELP?
Thanks
Dave S
Had the coil wired wrong, Rod helped with that.
Can't get her to run right. Still back firing and blowing black smoke no power and stalls. After fixed coil tried to start and still seems like timing is wrong.
Set it at .020, and checked to static timing it is were it should be. Pulled head AT TDC both valves closed.
Took breather off and checked valve clearance looks ok, May have to take down again see if timing marks are right, I had double check them.
Not sure what to do next
HELP?
Thanks
Dave S
